Painting Baja

#1
I'm looking to repaint my Baja.

I'm wanting about the easiest method possible, but I also want to make sure my efforts aren't wasted in a poor product in a couple years.

So what's a good approach and paint to use? I'm thinking...

1. Clean existing surface. Use steel wool to remove any loosely adhering rust.
2. Wipe surfaces with alcohol. Let dry thoroughly.
3. Paint with spray paint.

I don't have a brand of spray paint chosen, yet. I'd like something either metallic or glossy black for frame and most other minor parts, and metallic red for the fenders and tank.

Any help on exact make/model of paint to use would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
 

capguncowboy

Well-Known Member
#2
Duplicolor is pretty easy to work with. They have quite a few metallic colors to choose from, but it's a little on the pricey side ($6-8 for a 12 oz can).

As far as some painting tips go... I know it seems like a lot of extra steps, but if you follow these, you'll end up with a beautiful coat of paint that will last for years.

I would suggest getting as much of the old paint removed as possible. Remove ALL rust. Fill any pitted areas with Bondo or JB Weld and sand it smoothe. Clean every inch of the surface. If you don't, your new coat of paint won't last long.

Start with an etching primer first. Go with light coats of paint. I get all the nooks and crannies first, then overcoat everything else. This helps prevent overspray in the highly visible spots. Wet sand between coats with at least 220 grit (I use 320 because it leaves a smoother surface). Once you're happy with your primer, move on to paint. Same as before, get the nooks and crannies first, then get the other, easier to reach areas. Light coats are important to prevent runs and orange peel (when the surface of the paint shrinks during the curing process). Wet sand between coats to make sure your final coat will be the tits.

Let the paint cure for 2-3 days before you handle the frame. Otherwise, you're more likely to get chips or leave a fingerprint. The paint won't fully harden for about 5-6 days, maybe longer if you applied heavy coats.

If you use a flat color, consider some clear-coat to go over it. It'll make it shine and will likely help give the color some depth. If you're using metallic paint, be careful. Clearcoat can sometimes make it look pale and hide the sparkle.

Good luck!
 
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capguncowboy

Well-Known Member
#3
Here's an engine I painted a couple of years ago. I used Duplicolor silver and hit it with Eastwood 2K Urethane. The 2k isn't cheap, but boy does it go on nicely! Also, since it's 2 component paint, it holds up to gas spills (regular spraypaint will not).

This is a good example of how the clearcoat changed the appearance of the metallic basecoat.







 
#4
...So what's a good approach and paint to use? I'm thinking...

1. Clean existing surface. Use steel wool to remove any loosely adhering rust.
2. Wipe surfaces with alcohol. Let dry thoroughly.
3. Paint with spray paint...
Prep is everything. Capguncowboy's comments are spot-on. People here generally prefer Duplicolor brand spray paint. Follow the directions carefully. Sandpaper is better than steel wool for removing rust and loose paint. A power wire brush is good. So is a flapper wheel. I use lacquer thinner for the wipe-down.

Here's an engine I painted a couple of years ago. I used Duplicolor silver and hit it with Eastwood 2K Urethane. The 2k isn't cheap, but boy does it go on nicely! Also, since it's 2 component paint, it holds up to gas spills (regular spraypaint will not).

This is a good example of how the clearcoat changed the appearance of the metallic base coat...
Your engine looks really nice. :thumbsup: I've always liked the look of clear on silver. The 2K stuff is great, but you need to pay close attention to the safety warnings.



 

capguncowboy

Well-Known Member
#6
Prep is everything. Capguncowboy's comments are spot-on. People here generally prefer Duplicolor brand spray paint. Follow the directions carefully. Sandpaper is better than steel wool for removing rust and loose paint. A power wire brush is good. So is a flapper wheel. I use lacquer thinner for the wipe-down.



Your engine looks really nice. :thumbsup: I've always liked the look of clear on silver. The 2K stuff is great, but you need to pay close attention to the safety warnings.



Great advice. I do wear a respirator when spraying 2k. That stuff is dangerously toxic if breathed in
 

noseoil

Active Member
#7
Don't use steel wool! The first time it rains, you'll wish you didn't. Had a friend who demanded a steel wool rub out for his car, it bled through the paint into tiny rust spots... Wet sand to 600 grit, prime, wet sand & build the finish in thin coats, not thick ones. A rattle can finish can look really good if done properly. Take your time!
 

capguncowboy

Well-Known Member
#8
I just remembered something else. It's always tempting to touch the paint to see if it's dry. If it's not, you'll leave a print. Keep a piece of scrap metal to paint at the same time as the frame. Use that to test if its dry or not and spare yourself the headache of fixing your paint later
 
#9
Many thanks for the replies so far.

What Dupli-color paint do you recommend? They have 50-some different products. Obviously many of them are not paints, but there are plenty of paints. Thanks.
 

capguncowboy

Well-Known Member
#12
I normally get the Dupli-Color Perfect Match paint. It comes in an 8 oz can and all of the colors match manufacturer paint colors for Ford, Chevy, Honda, etc
 
#13
I usually get my Dupli paint from my local Advance auto store or Auto Zone.
It does pay to check around. Two stores of the same brand may have very different inventories and selections. I usually get it at my neighborhood NAPA store, where they have a huge selection. But I've been in other NAPA stores in my area where they had very limited choices. It all comes down to the franchise owner, regardless of the brand of store.
 
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