playing with LEDs

MB165

Active Member
#1
Since we are limited with our minibikes power output I figured id look into LEDs to see if they are a good alternative to the voltage hogging incandesant bulbs were used to. To keep things economical, I ordered several differant types of LEDs on ebay, from china. Some require modifications to the headlight itsself, but this one is a drop in, especially the minibajas, which put out about 4amps or 35watts, it onlt cost $23 with free shipping. youll need a rectifier. The led has a 30 watt output/ 1600 lumens, but being a LED it draws less than one amp, and turns on at around six volts to a max of 36volts. It has a built in heatsink and cooling fan.
I still havent figured out the equvilancy of led to standard bulbs, but what looks like a small bulb, in the LED world they are much brighter than what im used to I.E 30 watt led equals over a hundred watts of incandesant light.

here is the one which is a drop in for the minibaja.......the picture doesnt show just how bright it is, its unbelievably bright, the blue recycle bin is about 100 feet out.
I have a few other LED lights which ill post up in the next week or two, and also see what I can find for a simple rectifier as well.





 

MikeBear

Active Member
#2
You compare led lights to incandescent lights by the LUMENS number.

The higher the lumens number is, the brighter it'll be. If a LED light says it's equal to a particular wattage incandescent light bulb, yet the LUMENS number doesn't agree, you are getting cheated.

1600 Lumens is very bright, and high-output. It's equal to around 120watt incandescent, yet uses 1/4 of the current to run.

Please post the links/auctions that you bought these from, thanks!
 
#3
The ones I got from ebay drew about 4 watts and were very bright but they did not have any rating in lumens. They were also very cheap.
 

MB165

Active Member
#4
thank you, Im slowly figuring them out, yes that light is crazy bright. lumens is the common denominator, i knew early on using watts was confusing.
Do you know where does "K" come into all these ratings? is that like cool white vs daylight?
ole, where did you get those AA battery packs? I use one of them in my honda XR600, and feel theres a good purpose on our minibikes as well. its enough to run the lights for about 10-15 minutes engine off. but it really comes in and helps as the engine idles down at a stop light, the bulbs remain bright, Im using all incandesants on it at the moment but LEDs are coming for it too.
with the draw this particular LED has, one could even double headlights and still have some to charge a battery, maybe something like this: Ricky Stator Those are just AA MiMh batteries spot welded together with tabs to make the pack.

here is the above light auction, it took about 2.5 weeks to recieve it straight from china.
eBay item number:331125630389

and I ordered a few of these regulator/rectifiers to test with the LEDs and the tecumseh/rupp lighting coils, again from china.
eBay item number:191030955518

more later.......:thumbsup:
 
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#5
They are laptop batteries.
this past weekend at the Belton ham fest someone was selling the gates sealed batteries for 3 dollars each!! the one that is almost square and perfect for our minis. By the way those laptop batteries have been powering my LED lights for a long time (hours) without recharging.
 

MB165

Active Member
#6
Ebay has those batteries with the tabs on them, ready to assemble. Is there a special spot welder or???how do we connect those tabs securely? I sure would like to make my own packs, the premade ones are expensive.
 
#7
K denotes radiation temperature in Kelvin. Cooler colors are in the range of 2,700–3,000 K and warmer colors are in the range of 5,000K and over.

Doc
 
#8
this is a pic from my led flashlight with 980 lummans and runs on one 2600mah 18650 battery. I think Im just going to make a mount for a night ride here and there...


nitecore srt7 is the light
 
#11
Just an observation, but I am running a 55w automotive head light on the clone lighting package I use in my snow blower.

Lots of power there......
 

delray

Well-Known Member
#12
MB165, when you get your rectifier hookup to your ac lighted coil. then do a load test on how much dc amp's you engine puts and see how high your dc current is. i believe leds do not like alot of volts? need to keep it down 13volts or little lower. if it is little higher? you may need to have a small battery hookup at all times. that should help control the volts from going to high.
i got lucky with my lighted coil on my briggs/came dc current/2amp's and with a battery hookup it does not get any higher then 12.8 - or + very little.


 

MB165

Active Member
#13
thanks brian and randy, nos, I am working with some differant rectifier regulators, one has adjustable out put. Even tried AC to power one, it works but there are drawbacks which ill discuss. These headlight specific LEDs which Im messing with have built in power supplies, and can take 6-36 vDC input. I also have a 100w led which is like the sun, It needs a heatsink othrwise it cant run for more that a few seconds. ill have some photos up soon, and a few other headlight specific leds as well. They are on the slow boat from china...2-3 weeks to get them, but I cant build some of this stuff for their price with shipping.
Im also going to do a thread on rewinding the tecumseh lighting coils for the rupps, (after windber) there is room to improve those coils. I have mine setup on my build off rupp as a isolated ground, the coils are tied together to double the voltage, same amperage, that should work better on the regulator / rectifier setup I want to use. I do plan on using a small battery as well to smooth things out and have power during not running times, Ill show you how im going to do it. hopefully this all will fit in the headlight bucket, which is out being rechromed in Ca, ETA is mid may, i hope I get this thing finished in time...
 

MB165

Active Member
#14
Got this one a few days ago, it took three weeks delivery from china. its a 1900 lumen, 20 watt high/low/flash. The beam is a little more focused than the previous LED but its very bright as well. What I have noticed i with these LEDs is the depth and intensity of the light, even out and far distances 50-60 feet in front of the light its still just as white and bright as near it. This one doesnt get as hot as the 30 watter. the flash setting is very bright and quick it'll get your attention, i guess its for daytime riding. all aluminium housing, its a nice setup. It only has two wires to hook up, a quick flip of the switch to off then back on and it changes modes. Built in cooling fan, and regulator.











 
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