Project Brake alignment

#1
Jimh made me this disc for my Flea and after a lot of tweaking I finally found a way to get it reliable with a clean look.

First , I reversed the bolts and took a little off the lever and fixed part of the brake where it is close to the hub.

I free floated it by using cut recoil springs from a 1911 pistol (45acp) this allowed the brake to be move but without the feeling of being loose and rattling. With the stiff springs the brake squares up perfect on both sides of the disc when the cable is pulled. It's also fully adjustable now.

The cable return spring is from a TZ 9mm pistol and fit perfect, I lined that with a tube for the cable. The brake is easy to pull with little pressure.



I didn't have time to drop in an engine but we did the push down the hill test and the boy could lock up the rear wheel most times. :thumbsup:
 
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#4
Glad it worked. I stopped short of polishing it. I figured if I left a little "grain", it would bite a little better. I'm waiting for some stainless gears to be replaced so I can make one from stainless. your setup looks good:thumbsup:
If I'd known you were gonna post close ups, I would have rewelded and turned the hub one more time:doah:
 
#8
Today I did a temp mock up with a 6.0 Powersport which I think goes well with the seat and we tested the brakes real time. :smile: I also needed foot pegs so I drilled holes and installed Bonaza pegs (same as the Flea used) I also tapped the holes while I was at it (better than factory)

The gears were 13T drive and 15T to sprocket and the thing will still knock you on your butt! Even on a roll. :doah: Gobs of torque and good top end too. The little Flea looks bad ass and handle the engine well with it's tough 1" frame. (pic's don't do it justice)

Anyway, the brake worked very well, it won't put you in a skid at top speed but slows you down pretty fast. The only problem I see is heat,, the disc gets hot and so does the jack shaft in that area and I'm worried about melting the right bushing! :doah::weld:

Looks like GTO needs to invent the bolt on jack shaft cooling impeller next to the brake. :wink:
 
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#9
You could always run a small duct from your blower housing and/or a small scoop to catch a little air.
The jackshaft brakes turn a lot faster than one on the wheel or axle.
 
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#10
I'm thinking a little fan impeller blade next to the disc and maybe drill holes in the disc as well. Hahaha, it just might help! :thumbsup:
 
#11
Ok, today I tweaked with the brake adjustments and got less greedy with how close the pads where to the disc and allowed for jackshaft movement.

Much better, the disc only gets real hot hot when when braking a lot (like if you when in traffic) they cool down by the time you get down the end of the block.

I would do a lap and "feel" then do a lap brake brake feel brake cruise feel feel. :doah: It's all good. :thumbsup:

BTW, I raced the boy who was on the 6.5 clone and the two bikes where pretty even and it came down to the driver. The Tec seems to have a little more torque from a stop.
 
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