HI Everybody it is running great. It took a bit of messing around with the adjustment screws, but we are there, or real close. The lights are working, high, low, just taillight, or no lights at all. 
:thumbsup:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=694hK0TSm8o&list=UU8HqtjsP8DIGoc4JzDS9bxw
:thumbsup:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=694hK0TSm8o&list=UU8HqtjsP8DIGoc4JzDS9bxw
Hi everybody I'm having quite a time with this carb. It's a diaphragm type carb I think maybe it is the mixer screws that are screwed up. I just want to put a slanted intake and a bowl type carb on it. Does anyone know if I can put a bowl type carb on my non slanted intake? I am looking for a slanted intake for my hs40. If you have a slanted intake you can sell me please let me know. :thumbsup:
I just went to Blackwidow Motorsports and ordered a slanted intake both gaskets and a couple of other small parts for $51.00 seemed like a great deal. I looked on Ebay and it was $60.00 for used and over $80.00 for new for just the intake. Now I am going on ebay and get one of those cheap new adjustable carbs for the hs40. :wink: I think this is what Stangrcr1 was hinting at maybe the diaphragm carbs. are just trouble? :blink:
Hi buckeye what did I do now? I have only ran in the shop for less the 1 hour and I have not had it running to the point that I would let my wife ride it. It has not run twice from 2 different builders it never ran from Rick I could not hardly get it to pop ,it never ran. Now on the other hand when it came back from Bill it ran and ran real good. Bill said I would have to do all adjusting of the carb. The carb is not the original it is a carb that Rick traded for my original carb. You know what buckeye you are kind of a instigator on here aren't you. :shrug:
Hi f150tilt I have heard of that before but I don't know what that is. When it gets hard to start I need to give it a shot of starting fluid to start. I think it is a carb problem. I think it is not getting enough gas some times. I think it is a carb problem so I think the best fix is a slanted intake and a bowl type carb. :crying:
From the interweb based on auto engines but still applies for small engines:
"There is a condition that contributes to many failures of rebuilt or re-rung engines generally referred to as "fuel wash". It is caused by engine flooding at initial startup or in early operation of a newly rebuilt engine. This phenomenon can cause very serious damage to the cylinder bores, pistons, and piston rings. When flooding occurs, either from a fuel system malfunction, or overfueling when the engine fails to start, the excess fuel washes the oil film from the rings and cylinder walls. At this point metal to metal contact occurs and scuffing takes place. This condition is similar to and also sometimes referred to as dry start.
It is highly advisable for rebuilders and installers to follow a program of fuel system maintenance and ignition system installation checks to greatly reduce the chance of fuel wash. A suggested program is outlined below.
A carburetor rebuild is recommended at the time of engine rebuild. If not rebuilt, the carburetor should be encased in a plastic bag during engine overhaul. Before installing the carburetor, remove the fuel filter and direct a soft stream of air into the fuel inlet to ensure that no dirt or metal particles are in the needle and seat. Reinstall new fuel filters throughout the system. Blow off the fitting on the fuel line and carburetor, start the fitting straight by hand as cross threading will remove metal particles which can hold the needle and seat open and cause flooding. Timing chain, distributor, and ignition system installation should be done in accordance with the engine manufacturer's manual. The engine lubrication system should be prelubed with a pressure tank.
An overhauled engine that has been correctly assembled will start almost immediately. If after a reasonable period of cranking the engine does not start, something is wrong!! At this point the compression, ignition, and fuel systems should be checked. If, for example, there is no spark, the fuel being drawn into the cylinders will reach a saturation point and wash the oil film, or severely dilute and thus weaken the film, and scuffing will occur."
"There is a condition that contributes to many failures of rebuilt or re-rung engines generally referred to as "fuel wash". It is caused by engine flooding at initial startup or in early operation of a newly rebuilt engine. This phenomenon can cause very serious damage to the cylinder bores, pistons, and piston rings. When flooding occurs, either from a fuel system malfunction, or overfueling when the engine fails to start, the excess fuel washes the oil film from the rings and cylinder walls. At this point metal to metal contact occurs and scuffing takes place. This condition is similar to and also sometimes referred to as dry start.
It is highly advisable for rebuilders and installers to follow a program of fuel system maintenance and ignition system installation checks to greatly reduce the chance of fuel wash. A suggested program is outlined below.
A carburetor rebuild is recommended at the time of engine rebuild. If not rebuilt, the carburetor should be encased in a plastic bag during engine overhaul. Before installing the carburetor, remove the fuel filter and direct a soft stream of air into the fuel inlet to ensure that no dirt or metal particles are in the needle and seat. Reinstall new fuel filters throughout the system. Blow off the fitting on the fuel line and carburetor, start the fitting straight by hand as cross threading will remove metal particles which can hold the needle and seat open and cause flooding. Timing chain, distributor, and ignition system installation should be done in accordance with the engine manufacturer's manual. The engine lubrication system should be prelubed with a pressure tank.
An overhauled engine that has been correctly assembled will start almost immediately. If after a reasonable period of cranking the engine does not start, something is wrong!! At this point the compression, ignition, and fuel systems should be checked. If, for example, there is no spark, the fuel being drawn into the cylinders will reach a saturation point and wash the oil film, or severely dilute and thus weaken the film, and scuffing will occur."