Im new here,just joined this forum. Im finally getting around to messing with an old rupp that has been in my family for almost 30 years. Im 30 myself and its been kicking around since i was in diapers atleast. Ive always thought it was cool, back in high school i kind of rigged a 5hp briggs on it to make it ridable for a rather short time. I have been researching using a predator 212 on it as a repower. I lost the torque converter driver in various moves. I have read that i can use a comet 20 series driver with the rupp driven? And i would really like to make the lights function but ive read that is difficult with the predator because it doesnt have a lighting coil? Any info on any of that would be great. Im not very familiar with these things.
Repowering rupp roadster 2
- Thread starter Waller
- Start date
I've got the original style Tecumseh for my Roadster 2, but I run a hemi predator on it for bombing around the neighborhood. A lot more power. Quieter.
There are a few threads on using the 20 series on a Rupp R2. Here's one I participated in.
https://www.oldminibikes.com/forum/strictly-us-vintage/136071-rupp-torque-converter-advice-5.html
If I do another one, I would try modifying the rear clutch to work with a 3/4" belt. I'm not unhappy with what I've done. I just want to give it a try, and it would be a lot easier to accomplish for most folks. Not everyone has a lathe.
Joe
There are a few threads on using the 20 series on a Rupp R2. Here's one I participated in.
https://www.oldminibikes.com/forum/strictly-us-vintage/136071-rupp-torque-converter-advice-5.html
If I do another one, I would try modifying the rear clutch to work with a 3/4" belt. I'm not unhappy with what I've done. I just want to give it a try, and it would be a lot easier to accomplish for most folks. Not everyone has a lathe.
Joe
Old post but I just joined OldMiniBikes. I just retrieved my 1970 Rupp Roadster 2 from my dads farm. I purchased the bike in Dec 1970 .
I would like to bring it back to life... I need a motor. The orig has a hole in the block and rod thru the side. What engine would be a good fit for the old Rupp besides the orig Tecu? Joe you mentioned a Predator, easy retro?
Waller, did you get yours running?
Thanks dalpan
I would like to bring it back to life... I need a motor. The orig has a hole in the block and rod thru the side. What engine would be a good fit for the old Rupp besides the orig Tecu? Joe you mentioned a Predator, easy retro?
Waller, did you get yours running?
Thanks dalpan
Yes, pretty easy retrofit, but as you noted, no lights unless you rig a battery. It's not a bolt-in though. You'll have to rig an intake and and exhaust in order to make it work in that frame. You can make them without too much trouble if you can weld. If not, they can be easily purchased.
If you want the lights to work, and have most of the original engine, it would be just as easy to fix what you've got.
Joe
If you want the lights to work, and have most of the original engine, it would be just as easy to fix what you've got.
Joe
I would like to keep it orig Being a greenhorn for a project like this, how hard is it to find a block, engine cover w/recoil. I would need a carb.
Not knowing the correct number of the engine I think it would be difficult, unless the 70 Roadster 2 is enough info.
Crazy question, could the hole in the block be welded? I know a few welders that can heliarc alum. The hole is about 1" x 1-1/2.
Thanks
dalpan
Not knowing the correct number of the engine I think it would be difficult, unless the 70 Roadster 2 is enough info.
Crazy question, could the hole in the block be welded? I know a few welders that can heliarc alum. The hole is about 1" x 1-1/2.
Thanks
dalpan
No sir, I was not talking about snow blowers. I was talking about Rupp crankshafts that utilize ball bearings on the PTO instead of bushings. Specifically, 33080 for HS 40 (and 33676 for HS 50.) They also happen to have 3" PTO's.
We don't know if he has that version of the three available models.
I was not comparing the level of difficulty in obtaining those cranks versus the difficulty in obtaining lighting coils, but responding to your statement "I don't think the longer crank is really the big plus for that Tecumseh engine." Because that longer crank out of a 1970 Rupp-specific engine is almost certainly not your 3" PTO snow blower bushing crank from 1985. :thumbsup:
You don't have to believe anything I say. :laugh: I am merely parroting what the people smarter than me have discovered and posted over the years here on OldMiniBikes. When a new guy comes on with several hundred dollars-worth of parts on a bike he's had since 1970, and I start reading "advice" based on late model snow blowers, then guesses about Predators with lighting coils, I feel like I have to say something. Sorry to offend, as always.
We don't know if he has that version of the three available models.
I was not comparing the level of difficulty in obtaining those cranks versus the difficulty in obtaining lighting coils, but responding to your statement "I don't think the longer crank is really the big plus for that Tecumseh engine." Because that longer crank out of a 1970 Rupp-specific engine is almost certainly not your 3" PTO snow blower bushing crank from 1985. :thumbsup:
You don't have to believe anything I say. :laugh: I am merely parroting what the people smarter than me have discovered and posted over the years here on OldMiniBikes. When a new guy comes on with several hundred dollars-worth of parts on a bike he's had since 1970, and I start reading "advice" based on late model snow blowers, then guesses about Predators with lighting coils, I feel like I have to say something. Sorry to offend, as always.
i'm just saying he's not going to get a rupp tecumseh motor for $50, like he can get a snowblower HS50. he's in WI which means snowblowers are common and he can get a good replacement snowblower motor, add some low cost parts, and have a decent Tecumseh motor. The shaft is really not a big deal. You guys all like these ball bearing shaft motors, but frankly, i don't think that is justified. i haven't been able to wear out a 'regular' non-ball bearing shaft tecumseh! and even if i could, there's another snow blower Tecumseh waiting for me as a replacement.
on the other hand, if he wants lights to work on his bike, those light coils can be moved from his blown HSxx to a replacement tecumseh. that's a good thing as it's nice to have a Roadster2 with working lights.
Here's a good example of a MTD i restored and it has a nice Tecumseh HS50 snowblower motor. it's kicking ass pretty good!
https://youtu.be/DtFwrmgMswA
(sorry called surfer a 'dumb ass' in the video because he crossed trails, turning it into a figure 8! i asked him not to do that for fear of a head-on with someone else.)
on the other hand, if he wants lights to work on his bike, those light coils can be moved from his blown HSxx to a replacement tecumseh. that's a good thing as it's nice to have a Roadster2 with working lights.
Here's a good example of a MTD i restored and it has a nice Tecumseh HS50 snowblower motor. it's kicking ass pretty good!
https://youtu.be/DtFwrmgMswA
(sorry called surfer a 'dumb ass' in the video because he crossed trails, turning it into a figure 8! i asked him not to do that for fear of a head-on with someone else.)
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Sounds like you have things figured out. OND, and markus are currently doing HS rebuild threads, and there are several in the archives. If I have any Tecumseh questions I cant solve via a Google search, I send markus a PM, and you can always shoot me a PM.
Might be helpful to make your own build thread, post photos, and you'll probably get some great advice along the way.
Might be helpful to make your own build thread, post photos, and you'll probably get some great advice along the way.
predator lighting coil?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-Ba...862762&hash=item4b43e2b17e:g:Za0AAOSwtnBa~iUB
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-Ba...862762&hash=item4b43e2b17e:g:Za0AAOSwtnBa~iUB