well Vic, this is the proverbial "can of worms" ....is the cylinder excessivley worn?..has it previously been overbored (piston should be stamped as so...) ? ...is it worn tapered...?....is it work hardened or "glazed"...?...does it need to be bored and honed or just honed to provide a fresh surface for the new rings to seat on...?? .how will you hone it?? flex-hone...ball hone.... expanding drill hone...? .what will you use for lubricant when honing....did you thoroughly scrub the cylinder with clean with hot soapy water and a brush so it's microscopically clean...otherwise you wasted your time :doah:
..or maybe just pay a shop to professionally hone it and clean it....:shrug:
In the end....it's only a lawnmower engine...assuming it's still std. bore and there is no appreciable ridge left at the top of the cylinder, you can do a quickie hone job...wash it out good...check to make sure the replacement rings don't have excessive end gap ....and let it rip.
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..or maybe just pay a shop to professionally hone it and clean it....:shrug:
In the end....it's only a lawnmower engine...assuming it's still std. bore and there is no appreciable ridge left at the top of the cylinder, you can do a quickie hone job...wash it out good...check to make sure the replacement rings don't have excessive end gap ....and let it rip.
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I already honed the cylinder with a flex hone. I didn't need much, as it was in real good shape. No ridge, no scratches other than the normal ring type. Cleaned up the valves and ground the seats. Guides look good.
I have a commercial gunk tank I use when honing and it works good. I dont believe this motor has ever been apart from what I see.
Vic
I have a commercial gunk tank I use when honing and it works good. I dont believe this motor has ever been apart from what I see.
Vic