Just finished reading a post about governor removal and the dangers involved with doing that but not replacing the flywheel and rod with parts that can take the higher RPM available when the governor is removed. It made me think about the Rupp black widow which used a DeLLorto slide carb. How did Rupp handle the governor on those engines. Did they somehow hook it up or just leave the governor arm swinging in the breeze? I wonder if it was actually disabled did a lot of the HS40 engines blow up or did the Rupp factory beef them up? When I was young (a long time ago) I had my share of HS small block rods going thru the side of the block with no hop up just stretching the governor spring. I am thinking if it really was ungoverned what was their warranty claims like.
Ole, once the Dell was installed there was no way to connect the gov system, it was inactive but all still there internally, they never cracked open the engine to remove the spool/gear, arm etc... They were just the engines for the Enduro and Hustler, They show as being the complete engine in Tecumseh parts listings so they were most likely swapped out at Rupp. They did leave the tab on the gov arm, That if installed properly also acts as a stop so the arm cant rotate around inside the case and go up into the cam.
The last Legit Blackwidow I got did have a factory replacement short block on it so it probably did spit a rod, not sure when it got replaced, but the entire short block assy was the updated (post 1974) version. It was done correctly, all tins head, etc.. were still the factory ones that came on the bike and the short block had not been opened and the tag for it was still in its correct place on the sidecover as well as the factory tag on the shroud.
If a flung rod didnt get to them though moisture will if they sit around..at least down here on the gulf coast. Even that replacement block one was pretty buggered internally on the top end from moisture getting in. And most of the "parts bike" condition ones I have bought down here were the same, if they had the dell and open pipe.
The last Legit Blackwidow I got did have a factory replacement short block on it so it probably did spit a rod, not sure when it got replaced, but the entire short block assy was the updated (post 1974) version. It was done correctly, all tins head, etc.. were still the factory ones that came on the bike and the short block had not been opened and the tag for it was still in its correct place on the sidecover as well as the factory tag on the shroud.
If a flung rod didnt get to them though moisture will if they sit around..at least down here on the gulf coast. Even that replacement block one was pretty buggered internally on the top end from moisture getting in. And most of the "parts bike" condition ones I have bought down here were the same, if they had the dell and open pipe.
on the subject of rods and flywheels. has anybody ever seen a picture posted of a stock aluminum or cast iron flywheel exploded on a tecumseh?
also would there be a less chance of a stock rod coming unglued if a guy polished the rod beam and cap.
i know back in the day that use to be a real big thing to do on a stock or LT1 rods on a 350 chevy and always had good results in holding up under racing conditions.
i know tecumseh rod is nothing like a chevy rod . just using that as a example when it comes to polishing a rod beam to relieve some stress in the outer casting.
also would there be a less chance of a stock rod coming unglued if a guy polished the rod beam and cap.
i know back in the day that use to be a real big thing to do on a stock or LT1 rods on a 350 chevy and always had good results in holding up under racing conditions.
i know tecumseh rod is nothing like a chevy rod . just using that as a example when it comes to polishing a rod beam to relieve some stress in the outer casting.