Strocker motor

delray

Well-Known Member
hey guys, i got a question when changing over to a flat top piston. is there a advantage or disadvantage with the thin style rings for the flat top piston. i can see advantage in less drag on the cyclinder wall,but do they work well with a engine that is use just for riding everyday and not for racing.
 

vwfan79

Active Member
Yes the thin rings create less drag and there for allowing for more power. It still works well for a cruiser but the effects won't be noticable, with a race motor you are creating less drag in as many areas as possible so the effects will be more noticeable.
 

vwfan79

Active Member
Never had any trouble with the thin gaskets leaking. The ideal number is .027-.030 piston to head clearance. Meaning if your piston is in the hole .020 you can run a .010 gasket and still hit the mark.
 

delray

Well-Known Member
Ok,thanks alot on the info vwfan79
What i am getting at is . I have new greyhound 6.5 and was thinking modifying the engine. One of the modification would be to raise the compression.
Going with a flattop and then could i go with .010 longer rod and have the piston stick up little. Would this work on a stock head that has not been milled and could i still use a thin head gasket. Ideal cam i was think was the isky 0--6000rpm cam, sorry i don't Have the lift spec of hand. Or is there more problems i could run into. Talking about clearance problems?
 

vwfan79

Active Member
From my experience a gray hound with +.010 rod and flat top piston will still be in the hole .010-.015. The wrist pin is higher up in the piston on a flat top. If your piston is out of the hole you need to know how much, you need to maintain that min clearance of .027. For instance if your piston is out of the hole .010 then I would run the .037 MLS head gasket giving you your .027 clearance. The cam your talking about has .275 lift black mamba jr. If your .010 out of the hole and you use the thin .010 head gasket you have 0 piston to head clearance, not ideal.
 

delray

Well-Known Member
Ok,i didn't Know the piston would still be in the hole. Is there a correct rod and flat top piston combo for the greyhound.
Thanks....delray
 

vwfan79

Active Member
Should have the block back from the welder on Wednesday. He said there was some alloy that the welder didn't like and he had to acid wash the block and clean off the coating Honda bakes on there. He said he cut a channel out of the cooling fins and welded the brace right to the block, he also told me he was spooling welding it and the bore should not distort but he is gonna check it when done to make sure.
 

vwfan79

Active Member
Block is back from the welder, couldn't go up the cylinder because the larger bore and no room to straighten it out if it distorted. But he reinforced the top where I had to clearance for the rod. Going to start putting it together this week and see what happens.
 
Copper fiber head gasket

Doing what I can to make this thread as informative as possible. I'm kinda learning as I go on some of this stuff. I'm thinking I might go with a tiliston carb instead of the flat slide mikuni.
I ordered 2 .045 fiber head gaskets with fire rings for a 3" bore. I also got a can of copper gasket sealer spray to seal the gaskets together. I figured if there are any imperfections in the head or block deck the fiber would seal them better then the copper. Gaskets were $25 a piece and the sealer was $12 from nr racing.
Have you considered using a fiber and a copper, the reason i ask is the fiber has a fire ring inside it, and if you stack 2 fire ring gaskets which are designed to compress against a flat surface you will be asking them to seal against 2 ring faces.
It would seem to me that this would or could be unstable.
Id put the copper on the block side which has the cast iron bore for support and the fiber on the head side, where its fire ring can bed into the copper and the head.
 
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