TAV2 Series 30 Spring Color advice

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pracydna

New Member
#1
#1
Hello everyone, need a little help here. When I first put my TAV2 on my mini bike, it ran like a champ. Very strong off the jump and i was at a top speed of 42mph. After around 30-40 hours of riding it's lost it's initial torque off the start and also has fallen to 38mph top speed.

Also, I just purchased a new belt (chinese version not comet) and off the bat while going down the road at top speed I smelled burnt rubber. Is there a break-in period with these or is there something wrong with my TAV?

Lastly, I was thinking on replacing that red spring with a yellow or green spring. Any thoughts on this?
 
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pracydna

New Member
#2
#2
Also, the new belt I have seems to be burning itself into the left drive part. It's belt number 203589. My TAV2 is the Chinese version from ebay. Is this the belt I need or am I missing something? My O.C. is 6 5/8" from center drive to center drive. My main drive (the larger one) measures 6 3/16" wide.

Any and all help would be greatly appreciated.
 
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har_v1

Member
#3
#3
Belt number looks right, but there is a strong consensus here to stick with an actual comet belt for long life and better function...even on Chinese made Tavs.
Check to see if brass bushing on driver is moving freely...could explain the burning.
 
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pracydna

New Member
#4
#4
har_v1 said:
Belt number looks right, but there is a strong consensus here to stick with an actual comet belt for long life and better function...even on Chinese made Tavs.
Check to see if brass bushing on driver is moving freely...could explain the burning.
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Thanks har_v1. Oddly enough I found that the belt I need is a 669 sold by gopowersports and bmi karts. So I ordered a new one. Also, you were right on. Not only was my brass bushing not turning it was split in two. lol So I ordered another bushing as well.

Any thoughts on the green or yellow spring differences?
 
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TheDullCarbide

TheDullCarbide

Active Member
#6
#6
Your spring is fine. Don't mess with it as it's a pain to get back together.

The Chinese belt and "probably" the GPS 669 belt are part of the problem. Get the Genuin Comet belts as they are a higher quality rubber and they actually have more width to them so there's more material there before it wears out.

Your route cause is the split brass bushing. Order some spares while you're at it!
 
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pracydna

New Member
#7
#7
TheDullCarbide said:
Your spring is fine. Don't mess with it as it's a pain to get back together.

The Chinese belt and "probably" the GPS 669 belt are part of the problem. Get the Genuin Comet belts as they are a higher quality rubber and they actually have more width to them so there's more material there before it wears out.

Your route cause is the split brass bushing. Order some spares while you're at it!
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TheDull thank you for the post. I have a question though? I purchased a "comet clone" belt and it burned up in minutes while going down the road. When I did a little research I found that I needed a 669 like you just mentioned. Are you saying that the bushing was the cause of the belt burning and the "comet clone" belt I purchased should work now that I have a comet bushing? Sorry, just trying to clarify because if that's the case I'll order the comet belt no problem.
 
joshua. c.

joshua. c.

Well-Known Member
#8
#8
so is this mounted to a stock back plate or to a jack shaft? I've seen people tighten these way to much and it killed there top speed. the bushing is minor, its a ware peace, it shouldn't affect operation unless it was getting in the way of the clutch sheaves. the belt should barely touch it if you set it up right. also I had a belt ware out on me before and dust from it clogged up the bushing inside the driven and would not let it open properly. it ate 2 more belts on me before I figured out what was doing it.
 
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pracydna

New Member
#9
#9
joshua. c. said:
so is this mounted to a stock back plate or to a jack shaft? I've seen people tighten these way to much and it killed there top speed. the bushing is minor, its a ware peace, it shouldn't affect operation unless it was getting in the way of the clutch sheaves. the belt should barely touch it if you set it up right. also I had a belt ware out on me before and dust from it clogged up the bushing inside the driven and would not let it open properly. it ate 2 more belts on me before I figured out what was doing it.
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It's mounted with the kit that came with the ebay tav kit. Seemingly aluminum alloy plate?
 
TheDullCarbide

TheDullCarbide

Active Member
#10
#10
pracydna said:
TheDull thank you for the post. I have a question though? I purchased a "comet clone" belt and it burned up in minutes while going down the road. When I did a little research I found that I needed a 669 like you just mentioned. Are you saying that the bushing was the cause of the belt burning and the "comet clone" belt I purchased should work now that I have a comet bushing? Sorry, just trying to clarify because if that's the case I'll order the comet belt no problem.
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:doah: Not sure what I was saying there. The bushing isn't "necessarily required" but it is highly recommended especially in the case of a minibike where it could do some damage if it took off while resting on the kickstand. TAVs don't really like to be pushed balls-to-the-wall winding at top speed. This pulls the belt extremely low in the driven pulley where the sides of it flatten out and it puts extreme tension on the belt when the driven pulley bottoms-out but the driver keeps putting more and more force on the belt, causing it to wear out quicker. Genuine Comet belts put up with much more abuse than Chinese belts.

I get my belts from belts palace online. They sell the real Comet stuff there.
 
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pracydna

New Member
#11
#11
joshua. c. said:
so is this mounted to a stock back plate or to a jack shaft? I've seen people tighten these way to much and it killed there top speed. the bushing is minor, its a ware peace, it shouldn't affect operation unless it was getting in the way of the clutch sheaves. the belt should barely touch it if you set it up right. also I had a belt ware out on me before and dust from it clogged up the bushing inside the driven and would not let it open properly. it ate 2 more belts on me before I figured out what was doing it.
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It's mounted with the kit that came with it. There's an aluminum cast plate that bolts on, then the driven part is held on by a jackshaft bolt. What part of the driven do I need to look at for this Josh?
 
joshua. c.

joshua. c.

Well-Known Member
#12
#12
pracydna said:
It's mounted with the kit that came with it. There's an aluminum cast plate that bolts on, then the driven part is held on by a jackshaft bolt. What part of the driven do I need to look at for this Josh?
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if its mounted to the original back plate and it is using a replacement for the original belt it should work just fine. just make sure the driven and driver are opening and closing properly when you rev it and it should be ok, if not then there's an issue.
 
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