Tecumseh Governer
- Thread starter minibikeinterest
- Start date
Hey Prescott
Its easy. You have to remove the governer arm. Then remove all the bolts on the side cover. Be carefull when you take off the cover, make sure the cam doesnt come out with the cover. Then on the inside of the side cover youll see a gear held on by a bracket. Take out the 2 bolts holding it on remove the gear. You dont have to take the governer bar that gos through the side cover. I do, but you would have to seal the hole and let it dry. If the gasket is good you can reuse it. If not replace the gasket and put it back on. Be carfull to torque the bolts evenly and dont over tighten. You can use a torque wrench if you have a inch pound wrench. Heres a pic of the linkage i make for my engines.
If you have any more questions ou can email me at jbh11600@hotmail.com
Josh
Its easy. You have to remove the governer arm. Then remove all the bolts on the side cover. Be carefull when you take off the cover, make sure the cam doesnt come out with the cover. Then on the inside of the side cover youll see a gear held on by a bracket. Take out the 2 bolts holding it on remove the gear. You dont have to take the governer bar that gos through the side cover. I do, but you would have to seal the hole and let it dry. If the gasket is good you can reuse it. If not replace the gasket and put it back on. Be carfull to torque the bolts evenly and dont over tighten. You can use a torque wrench if you have a inch pound wrench. Heres a pic of the linkage i make for my engines.
If you have any more questions ou can email me at jbh11600@hotmail.com
Josh
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Hey Guys
I thought i would explain how to make the linkage. It only takes a few things to make it. I use a 90 degree 2"x2" metal bracket. 2 small self tapping screws, a conduit retainer w/locknut, small strong spring, one of the little bars from the governer, and a wire swivel.
First i cut off 1/2" off one side if the bracket. On the cut side twords the end i drill out a hole to fit the conduit retainer. Then drill out 2 holes on the other side of the bracket just bigger then the self tappers. I hold the bracket on the flywheel cover so it would be in line to the throttle arm on the carb, and mark the holes. Then predrill the 2 holes to start the self tappers. Screw the bracket to the cover.
Now some Tecumseh carbs have the small hole right where we need it. But not every one does. So in this pic i show where i would drill the hole for this carb.(the carb would have to be off the engine for this) I like to drill it out 7/64". It has to be set back at the end by the iddle screw. So when it pulls it will pull the throttle open. Make sure you drill it in the right spot or the throttle wont open and close well.
In the next pic you can see how i ran a return spring from the carb to the conduit retainer bracket. Some carbs are different and you have to place the spring at different angles. As long as its pulling back on the throttle arm to hold the trottle closed (if you have this setup right when you pull the throttle it will snap back perfect each time. It is verry important to have the return spring well attached on both ends. You can even use 2 springs to be safe.
You might have to cut the throttle cable housing to get the cable the right length. Put the throttle cable through the retainer. Take one end of the governer bar that still is bent and put it in the hole you drilled. Hold it in line with the throttle cable (i like to split the difference between the conduit retainer and the throttle arm of the carb) Bend it around to make a loop with a small hole in the middle. Cut off the extra bar. Run the throttle cable through the small hole in the bar. Make sure the throttle cable housing is sitting good in the trottle. Then put the wire swivel on the cable, hold the wire and bar straight, and tighten it.
Now test it to make sure everything is working properly. And thats it!
I thought i would explain how to make the linkage. It only takes a few things to make it. I use a 90 degree 2"x2" metal bracket. 2 small self tapping screws, a conduit retainer w/locknut, small strong spring, one of the little bars from the governer, and a wire swivel.
First i cut off 1/2" off one side if the bracket. On the cut side twords the end i drill out a hole to fit the conduit retainer. Then drill out 2 holes on the other side of the bracket just bigger then the self tappers. I hold the bracket on the flywheel cover so it would be in line to the throttle arm on the carb, and mark the holes. Then predrill the 2 holes to start the self tappers. Screw the bracket to the cover.
Now some Tecumseh carbs have the small hole right where we need it. But not every one does. So in this pic i show where i would drill the hole for this carb.(the carb would have to be off the engine for this) I like to drill it out 7/64". It has to be set back at the end by the iddle screw. So when it pulls it will pull the throttle open. Make sure you drill it in the right spot or the throttle wont open and close well.
In the next pic you can see how i ran a return spring from the carb to the conduit retainer bracket. Some carbs are different and you have to place the spring at different angles. As long as its pulling back on the throttle arm to hold the trottle closed (if you have this setup right when you pull the throttle it will snap back perfect each time. It is verry important to have the return spring well attached on both ends. You can even use 2 springs to be safe.
You might have to cut the throttle cable housing to get the cable the right length. Put the throttle cable through the retainer. Take one end of the governer bar that still is bent and put it in the hole you drilled. Hold it in line with the throttle cable (i like to split the difference between the conduit retainer and the throttle arm of the carb) Bend it around to make a loop with a small hole in the middle. Cut off the extra bar. Run the throttle cable through the small hole in the bar. Make sure the throttle cable housing is sitting good in the trottle. Then put the wire swivel on the cable, hold the wire and bar straight, and tighten it.
Now test it to make sure everything is working properly. And thats it!
Why do you have to take the gear out of the case? why cant you just take off the arm and be done with it? after all, the gov. arm is what limits the throttle. once its gone it cant hold back the little throttle dohicky any more.
please explain, i've been wondering this for quite some time.
thanks,
mike
please explain, i've been wondering this for quite some time.
thanks,
mike
Hi I'm new to the forum.
I have a bike I just built, it's a 6hp H60 and I think it spins past 3600 RPM.
It still has the governer intalled and working, I adjusted it acording to the manual.
My question is this how long will this last before sending the rod thru the side of the engine? I don't hammer it very hard but I like to open it up now and then. The motor is 30 some years old and it may be a bit tired but I don't get smoke and it has good compression.
The reason I ask this here is it seems many people remove the governer but I'm wondering about the long or short term results and what others have experienced.
Thanks
I have a bike I just built, it's a 6hp H60 and I think it spins past 3600 RPM.
It still has the governer intalled and working, I adjusted it acording to the manual.
My question is this how long will this last before sending the rod thru the side of the engine? I don't hammer it very hard but I like to open it up now and then. The motor is 30 some years old and it may be a bit tired but I don't get smoke and it has good compression.
The reason I ask this here is it seems many people remove the governer but I'm wondering about the long or short term results and what others have experienced.
Thanks
There is no way to esitmate how long an engine will last without the governer, especially a used engine that has unknown internal condition. Short blips to max speed will not cause any problems...what kills ungoverned engines is wide open no load(rear wheel off the ground), long down hill runs wide open for long distances and long distance wide open runs
Governers are for equipment not minibikes( just my thinking). I have stock rod Tecumseh engines running 7000 rpm and have NO problems with them.
Keep oil full, Keep oil clean! the 2 fastest killers of the small engines
anything I have or build that runs in excess of 5000 rpm gets synthetic oil due the little engines having splash oiling. Above 5000 rpm the splasher tends to cut the oil and not splash, so better oil is req'd
The tecumseh flat head governer internal parts can withstand high rpm without failure...so removing external governer won't be any problem if leaving the internals inside the block.
Governers are for equipment not minibikes( just my thinking). I have stock rod Tecumseh engines running 7000 rpm and have NO problems with them.
Keep oil full, Keep oil clean! the 2 fastest killers of the small engines
anything I have or build that runs in excess of 5000 rpm gets synthetic oil due the little engines having splash oiling. Above 5000 rpm the splasher tends to cut the oil and not splash, so better oil is req'd
The tecumseh flat head governer internal parts can withstand high rpm without failure...so removing external governer won't be any problem if leaving the internals inside the block.
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Hey Kreemy
I erased the pics a while ago. Heres a link to some more pics. http://www.oldminibikes.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1135
Josh
I erased the pics a while ago. Heres a link to some more pics. http://www.oldminibikes.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1135
Josh