Torque Converter for B200R

SAS289

Well-Known Member
#2
The 420 chain is correct and if they send you a 132 link chain you will have enough length.

Be careful with the chain break tool because they aren't very good quality. And be prepared to ride then adjust the chain multiple times because it will stretch and stretch and keep stretching. I got one of those a few years ago and it wasn't a good chain. At least you'll be able to count the links to prepare yourself for the next chain you get.

The RK chains I have used have worked ok at a low cost. I use 96 links including the master. Different setup and sprocket than you have.

Amazon.com: RK Racing Chain M420-98 (420 Series) 98-Links Standard Non O-Ring Chain with Connecting Link : Automotive
 
#3
The 420 chain is correct and if they send you a 132 link chain you will have enough length.

Be careful with the chain break tool because they aren't very good quality. And be prepared to ride then adjust the chain multiple times because it will stretch and stretch and keep stretching. I got one of those a few years ago and it wasn't a good chain. At least you'll be able to count the links to prepare yourself for the next chain you get.

The RK chains I have used have worked ok at a low cost. I use 96 links including the master. Different setup and sprocket than you have.

Amazon.com: RK Racing Chain M420-98 (420 Series) 98-Links Standard Non O-Ring Chain with Connecting Link : Automotive
Thanks for the info. Do you know if the other parts are correct or if there's anything else I may need for this project?
 
#5
Be careful with the chain break tool because they aren't very good quality.
Yah, just okay for taking links out.

There are a couple of things to note.
Check the bolts, personally, If they don't have 8.8(metric) or 3 hash marks(sae grade 5), whichever ones you need, stamped on the head I would change them out. Also verify the length. Kit may have shorter or longer than you need.

Probably going to need some machine washers to get both pulleys aligned like they need to be.

In the first picture in your TC link, if you'll notice, the shaft for the rear pulley (driven) is stepped down. I believe it's 17mm to 5/8. That step down probably pokes out past the bearing just a hair. The effect being that you'll will have a slight but noticeable slop (pulling back and forth) in the driven unit when you tighten (just snug) the nyloc nut that holds the unit on. No amount of nut tightening will take that play out, all it will do is damage your bearings with too much preload.
 
#6
I used those same parts on my BT200. Everything lined up fine. I had to make a new chain but that wasn't a big deal. Did a few other things at the same time.

Biggest issue I had was that I have a 16mm crankshaft but I fixed that:

 
Top