valve grinder

delray

Well-Known Member
#22
next step was to make a new shaft.


after getting the main part of the shaft turn I then turn down the part for the threads to go on.


and then the shaft end for the pulley to mount on.


then back to the other end to tap some threads out.



double check to see how the new bushings fit...perfect.


now I can cut off the rest of the material and clean it up.


here are the new parts next to the old stuff.

 

SAT

Well-Known Member
#23
Nice work.
Pretty cool using vintage USA-made iron to repair vintage USA-made iron. I still use my lantern toolpost frequently as well.
 

delray

Well-Known Member
#24
Nice work.
Pretty cool using vintage USA-made iron to repair vintage USA-made iron. I still use my lantern toolpost frequently as well.
it's been a good lathe for me. I got few different lantern toolpost's that came with the lathe when I purchase it and all of them have come in handy....
not to get off the subject to much on my valve machine. i did pick this little guy last fall for free. the lathe was sitting in a transmission shop for over 30+ years and was use only to chuck up drums once and awhile. otherwise it just sat and idle and collected alot of shop grime...oil..exhuast..etc.
little guy came with everything..steady rest,faceplate,dog legs,gears,tailstock....etc...lots of stuff that never got use. for right now i am keeping the grime on it. kind of preserves it.
lathe is a south bend "workshop" they call it a 3ft bed X 9inch swing. with something chuck up and tailstock the work space is more like 16-18inch's .
the year I believe is somewhere around 1935 or so?




lathe you see in my photo's doing the bushings and shaft is a atlas/sears roebuck (1941). I purchase that from a gentleman that was is uncle's and in 1953 it came to his dad's small engine shop and was only use for machine small bushings and stuff once awhile. so that too did a lot of sitting around. speed things up is dad and uncle past away and he took over the shop. in 1990 he sold the business and built a retirement home and brought lathe with him and stored it in the basement of his new home.
here is what it look like the day I purchase it from him still in his basement. he had it setup to do wood working?
lathe is still sitting on the original boards and cast iron legs. that's just crazy. all in real good shape still.

 

SAT

Well-Known Member
#25
it's been a good lathe for me. I got few different lantern toolpost's that came with the lathe when I purchase it and all of them have come in handy....
not to get off the subject to much on my valve machine. i did pick this little guy last fall for free. the lathe was sitting in a transmission shop for over 30+ years and was use only to chuck up drums once and awhile. otherwise it just sat and idle and collected alot of shop grime...oil..exhuast..etc.
little guy came with everything..steady rest,faceplate,dog legs,gears,tailstock....etc...lots of stuff that never got use. for right now i am keeping the grime on it. kind of preserves it.
lathe is a south bend "workshop" they call it a 3ft bed X 9inch swing. with something chuck up and tailstock the work space is more like 16-18inch's .
the year I believe is somewhere around 1935 or so?




lathe you see in my photo's doing the bushings and shaft is a atlas/sears roebuck (1941). I purchase that from a gentleman that was is uncle's and in 1953 it came to his dad's small engine shop and was only use for machine small bushings and stuff once awhile. so that too did a lot of sitting around. speed things up is dad and uncle past away and he took over the shop. in 1990 he sold the business and built a retirement home and brought lathe with him and stored it in the basement of his new home.
here is what it look like the day I purchase it from him still in his basement. he had it setup to do wood working?
lathe is still sitting on the original boards and cast iron legs. that's just crazy. all in real good shape still.

Outstanding machinery. The accuracy of my 1939 Sheldon 10x26 improved dramatically after I set it up “by the book”. Precision level, 0.010” shim stock, and cleaning did the trick. Your machines must be extremely accurate with so few hours run time.
 

delray

Well-Known Member
#27
I clean up the pump housing and ran it through the glass beater so I could get a better ideal what was in front of me.

found something interesting on the pump cover where the seal was. it appears to have two small brass pin's that hold the seal in place and a spring behind it.


the seal look to be crack on one end so I clean and clean the seal with lacquer thinner to help dry it up. so the glue would stick better to it. I put some super glue in the crank area and then lightly put it in my small vise for a day. this would help bring back the correct size seal to the new shaft I made. I also wet over the crack area with a very light permatex coating. not sure what kind of material this seal is made of? but it's old for sure and was not sure if I could still get it or not. so I put some life back into it for now.
 
#28
I bought a submersible pump for mine but for the small amount of valves I do I just run it dry as I am afraid it will throw oil all over when it hits the stone. I do wonder if the finish would be smoother but it is supposedly just to keep valve cool. They do get hot fast.
 

SAT

Well-Known Member
#29
If you hit a serious water hazard on this project, which I doubt. I would bet someone over at the Smokstak forums knows a bit about them, or who to contact.
 

delray

Well-Known Member
#30
I bought a submersible pump for mine but for the small amount of valves I do I just run it dry as I am afraid it will throw oil all over when it hits the stone. I do wonder if the finish would be smoother but it is supposedly just to keep valve cool. They do get hot fast.
I wonder if you could control the flow with a dimmer switch or something similar so it just run's at a very low speed when the fuild comes out.
also believe the fluid keeps the grinding dust down. on top of helping it stay cool.
on my setup the pump acts more like a water pump. just pumps the volume fuild and no pressure built up. on top of the machine where the fuild comes out there is a small valve that you can control the flow so it can just run out or trickles out....
 

delray

Well-Known Member
#31
If you hit a serious water hazard on this project, which I doubt. I would bet someone over at the Smokstak forums knows a bit about them, or who to contact.
smokstak good web site . I believe I found some info in the past on valve grinders there. I do need to do little research on how low you can grind valves on the stone wheel before you need to trim it up with a wheel dresser. i'm sure it probably varies and a guy that does it everyday would have a better feel for it when it needs to be done.
 

delray

Well-Known Member
#32
correction...........:eek:
smokstak good web site . I believe I found some info in the past on valve grinders there. I do need to do little research on how long you can grind valves on the stone wheel before you need to trim it up with a wheel dresser. i'm sure it probably varies and a guy that does it everyday would have a better feel for it when it needs to be done.
 

delray

Well-Known Member
#33
I use the original fixture that I made to hold the bushings in the lathe to press them back into the pump housing.


with the new shaft installed with the bushings,everything spins nice and free....



put some grease on to the shaft end and seal before installing.


little Loctite on the threads before installing. don't want that to come unglued.


pack the new bushings and shaft with some grease.


ground little flat spot into the shaft keep the set screw from spinning.


he is where the little guy sits. valve grinder has a small reservoir that holds the fluid in the back corner of the machine.
full of fluid and now leaks.


here is a small video it in action. also note I install a about a 3inch long Tecumseh valve in the chuck with it sticking out little. note how out of around it is. this was something I was talking about early how I need to get some different holders so it runs true. then too I can do some clone stuff. if I install it right up to the chuck it will spin true,but I need to watch out for the grinding stone from going into the stem of the valve. it can be done with caution.
"
 
#34
Olá querido amigo meu nome e junior e estou refazendo uma máquina como esta !! Eu moro no Brasil e não sei falar inglês !!!
Preciso de ajuda com o tamanho das polias que estão no motor, a polia está na bomba de óleo, preciso saber quantos hp este motor possui !! por favor, você pode me ajudar com esta informação !!!]
obrigado
 
#35
I use the original fixture that I made to hold the bushings in the lathe to press them back into the pump housing.


with the new shaft installed with the bushings,everything spins nice and free....



put some grease on to the shaft end and seal before installing.


little Loctite on the threads before installing. don't want that to come unglued.


pack the new bushings and shaft with some grease.


ground little flat spot into the shaft keep the set screw from spinning.


he is where the little guy sits. valve grinder has a small reservoir that holds the fluid in the back corner of the machine.
full of fluid and now leaks.


aqui está um pequeno vídeo em ação. observe também que eu instalei uma válvula Tecumseh de cerca de 3 polegadas de comprimento no mandril, com pouco de fora. observe como está fora de questão. isso era algo sobre o qual eu estava falando desde o início, como preciso conseguir alguns titulares diferentes para que funcionasse. então eu também posso fazer algumas coisas de clone. se eu instalá-lo até o mandril, ele irá girar de verdade, mas preciso tomar cuidado para que a pedra de afiar entre na haste da válvula. isso pode ser feito com cautela.
"[MEDIA = youtube] kuRZPySVwTw [/ MEDIA] [/ QUOTE]
Olá querido amigo meu nome e junior e estou refazendo uma máquina como esta !! Eu moro no Brasil e não sei falar inglês !!!
Preciso de ajuda com o tamanho das polias que estão no motor, a polia está na bomba de óleo, preciso saber quantos hp este motor possui !! por favor, você pode me ajudar com esta informação !!!]
obrigado
 

delray

Well-Known Member
#36
Olá júnior, a polia principal montada no motor elétrico mede cerca de 4 1/2 "em x 2 1/4" de largura. a polia menor tem cerca de 1 3/8 "e parece usar uma correia em V. A é a mesma da polia pequena na bomba abaixo. O motor elétrico é avaliado em 1/4 hp e também parece ter 5/8" eixo nele.
entre em contato se precisar de mais informações ou se isso é bom o suficiente.
delray….:scooter:
 
#37
ok ole4, interesting. thats kind of what i was thinking you where saying. i do like them mini collets. think i am going to order some up.
i purchase a large machinst tool cabinet chest couple years ago and now it's starting to get full.

hey ole4, i purchase neway cutting set that will give me a 3 angle valve job.



tryed it out on a junk block. the same block i use the valve to reface/grind.
work pretty slick. tryed to get a good picture of the 3 angles it cut ,but i just could not get the camera to focus in good.:doah: just ran a green sharpie pen around the face of the valve so it would indicate the seating area. they say if you use the blue machinst die you can just snap the valve couple times and it will show the line. for me i had to spin the valve little to get the magic marker material to come off, it work. it shows a define line about a 1/3 down just like it needs to be.
i only had to spin the cutting tool about a full turn or so and it was done. so much better then trying to use stones. especially on these little engines. surface areas on the seats are so small.
We always used the neway valve seat cutters with good results. Heck, once I fixed a friends Honda Civic with a burned valve with it. We used to always try to move the contact area more to the center of the valve when we could. Not sure how critical it was but we always felt it would last longer/seal better if we were not so close to the thinnest part of the valve.
 

delray

Well-Known Member
#38
We always used the neway valve seat cutters with good results. Heck, once I fixed a friends Honda Civic with a burned valve with it. We used to always try to move the contact area more to the center of the valve when we could. Not sure how critical it was but we always felt it would last longer/seal better if we were not so close to the thinnest part of the valve.
nice if they sold the neway valve refacing tool cheaper. they don't give that away.

I still like my old school valve grinding machine and it can grind the tips of the valves for flatheads and can do automotive valves to small engine stuff. something the refacing tool can't do. speaking of honda. I will need to purchase a pilot for a honda gx200 style guide.
I have a few new things I purchase for this machine that I will be posting soon.

if anybody was curious about that recent posting above in different language. the guy is from brazil and is speaking/writing in Portuguese and was asking about the pulley setup and if I could give him some dimensions from my machine. he has the same kind and is trying to get it put back together.
 
#39
[QUOTE = "delray, post: 1232945, membro: 339"] Olá júnior, uma polia principal montada no motor elétrico mede cerca de 4 1/2 "em x 2 1/4" de largura. uma polia menor tem aproximadamente 1 3/8 "e parece usar uma correia em V. A mesma polia pequena na bomba abaixo. O motor elétrico é avaliado em 1/4 hp e também parece ter 5/8" eixo nele .
entre em contato se precisar de mais informações ou se isso é bom ou suficiente.
atrasar…. :lambreta:[/CITAR]
Olá meu amigo !!!
Estou muito feliz que você respondeu !!
Acredito que no Brasil exista apenas esta máquina que estou restaurando, muito difícil encontrar informações precisas.
por favor amigo eu tenho mais 2 perguntas !!
Essas medições de polia são precisas?
você sabe quantas rpm esse mecanismo possui?
Peço o tamanho exato das polias, pois terei que fazer uma nova para finalizar o projeto !!!
Eu aprecio sua ajuda !!
att: Junior
 

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