Welding

H

hogbuoy

New Member
#1
#1
I took a community college course on tig, mig, brazing, and plasma cutting 5 years ago.

I have a Lincoln 170 (old) and just bought a Lincoln 180.

My welds suck!!!!! I don't seem to be getting any penetration or I blow a hole through the plate or tube. My roll of wire is flux and is slightly rusty and 5 years old. I'm thinking that my be the problem. I also have gas but don't seem to get any nicer with it.

I use a mask for arc welding but have trouble seeing even after the arc is struck. I tried using a acetaline torch to smooth my bird shit splatters out but is didn't. I didn't use a mask with the torch and I am suffering from a bad case of flash burn today. Lesson learned use mask with torch also.

I'd show a picture of my weld but its just to damn embarrassing. I've welding the plates for my head tube and I know I need to clean them up and make them stronger. I don't even want to attempt to weld my neck tube until I know I can do it right.
 
widerider

widerider

New Member
#2
#2
it could be something as simple as changing the polarity on your machine...MIG (using gas shielding) requires the electrode (wire) to be DC+, most Innershield, (Flux core) wire requires DC- at the electrode...DC+ is called reverse polarity, DC- is called straight polarity...your machine should have either a switch to change the polarity, or a provision to switch the grounding cable & positive cable under the cover...it will make a remarkeable difference in weld penetration & appearance.....

flux core wire does make a mess, but with enough practice on scrap you will be able to distinguish betwen the "slag" & the actual weld metal.. keeping the tip of your gun close to the weld is also essential, no more than 1/2" to 3/4" of wire "stickout", hold her in there close & go to town, by playing with it you will find the optimum distance for the smoothest weld...when the sound is more like frying bacon than popping corn, you are there...

a mask (welding hood) should have a provision for changing the darkness of the lens...inside, or dim light welding will require a lighter colored lens, outside in bright sunlight will require a darker lens, etc., sounds like you need to experiment with shades of darkness if the instant glare is bugging you...also, if you wear eyeglasses normally, or use reading glasses, etc., wear them under your hood as well...most decent welding hoods can also be fitted with magnifying lenses as well...

hint: if you are referring in your post to the hand-held "mask" that comes with most new machines, toss it immediately & get a REAL welding hood so you can use both hands to steady the gun...

good luck...
 
H

hogbuoy

New Member
#3
#3
I had forgotten about the polarity. I did have it changed for gas.

Thank you for your well written thoughtful post. You sir are a gentleman.
 
widerider

widerider

New Member
#4
#4
not so much a gentleman, but a retired union Ironworker with a little bit of welding under my belt...

glad to be of some help.....

Frank
 
paulhew

paulhew

New Member
#5
#5
your welder sucks...not you, I use many different welders and there is a huge difference from one to another.... even what comes out of the outlet matters :thumbsup:
 
H

Havasu Dave

Moderator
#6
#6
paulhew said:
your welder sucks...not you, I use many different welders and there is a huge difference from one to another.... even what comes out of the outlet matters :thumbsup:
Click to expand...
:thumbsup: LMAO! Yeah, that's my problem too! My WELDER makes those ugly welds. :laugh: That would be a good signature quote there Paul. "Your welder sucks, not you." :thumbsup:

Then I wouldn't have to take blurry photos of stuff I weld anymore.
 
vwmopar

vwmopar

Member
#7
#7
practice making beads on low amps. worry about penetration later. If it's mig the closer you have the torch to the work piece it will raise amperage. Check your tip size to wire size if the tip is too big your amperage will be erratic. I have a Lincoln sp135 Plus that I have had for over ten years hasn't let me down yet. I use mig wire with co2 argon mix. For my machine flux core will penetrate more. There should be a copper coating on the wire to prevent rusting. We need pick to see what you are doing wrong. If the weld is real flat and wide too much heat or moving too slow if its high with poor penetration and thin either you're moving too fast or you need to turn up the heat. Mig is pretty forgiving. It just takes time. There is a million and one variables but I'm sure it's not the welder. Also flux core isn't as clean as mig but it can be dressed after words. Get some tip dip too.
 
deejaaa

deejaaa

New Member
#8
#8
here are some welds i made today playing around.
brass bearing cage, steel bearing race, stainless ladle cup. all with a HF 220v mig.
it is quite difficult and messy to get brass and steel to fuse. stainless is quite easy.




i will be running a few more beads so it doesn't look so sloppy to finish it out.
 
Last edited:
Phil1958

Phil1958

#9
#9
that is one sweet wine glass :thumbsup:

it should be at winber for a prize or something.

either sell it to me or offer it up as the "Buckeye Award"

cool!



deejaaa said:
here are some welds i made today playing around.
brass bearing cage, steel bearing race, stainless ladle cup. all with a HF 220v mig.
it is quite difficult and messy to get brass and steel to fuse. stainless is quite easy.




i will be running a few more beads so it doesn't look so sloppy to finish it out.
Click to expand...
 
massacre

massacre

#11
#11
Welding brass to steel with a flux core MIG?
First time I've seen that, usually those materials are brazed or soldered?

It can be hard to see the arc with flux core wire because of the smoke and spatter, if you can weld with reg wire and shielding gas I recommend it.
Just keep practicing, MIG has a cold start but once you get a feel for the heat and torch travel you should be fine.
 
Last edited:
H

hogbuoy

New Member
#15
#15
Welder polarity and sloppy welds

Shown are welds to engine mount of thunderbird protect, neck plate reinforcements for ebay acquired neck tube (with races and bearings). I dont want to attach it until I can make neat strong welds. It costs me $100.00. Don't want to screw it up.

I've got at least 2 hours work with a grinder before I can even attempt to neaten this mess up.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top