What is the best way to vent the crankcase pressure on a built Stage 3-4 Predator 212 or clone?

#1
I see that many people use catch cans, some people use the governor arm hole and tap that to add a fitting. They then run that to the valve cover and have a breather tube with filter venting the valve cover. I also see them using three hoses from the crankcase and all three of those to the valve cover two are spliced and run with no venting and one line with a small K&N style filter spliced into it that goes from the crankcase to the valve cover. Are any of those scenarios needed and if so when is a PCV valve needed?

I hope what i have written is not confusing, I have a Predator 212 that when installed in my Trailmaster MB 200 with a Juggernaut clutch and is close to a stage four minus the porting work it will rev out to 8600+ RPMwith the rear wheel off the ground, at 52 MPH it is close to 6500 rpm. This may not be max yet due to jetting issues i am having, but is there a need for me to have a PCV valve installed? I am now running with a probably not optimal setup on venting I have the ARC Billet side cover with both vent hole little with pulse fittings, they both run to the clear plastic valve cover that has a vent tube at the top with a filter. I also added a K&N style filter to one of the lines. I think this maybe the wrong way to do it and why i am having a problem getting of rid the off idle bog i am having. I changed the jetting this winter and it was working fine now I have spent a week going up and down with the jets I have and not finding a solution.


I know this is a ling post so sorry and I hope I can get some feedback if I am going in the wrong direction or not and if in any way my post needs clarification please let me know.

Thank you all in advance.
 
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#2
I see that many people use catch cans, some people use the governor arm hole and tap that to add a fitting. They then run that to the valve cover and have a breather tube with filter venting the valve cover. I also see them using three hoses from the crankcase and all three of those to the valve cover two are spliced and run with no venting and one line with a small K&N style filter spliced into it that goes from the crankcase to the valve cover. Are any of those scenarios needed and if so when is a PCV valve needed?

I hope what i have written is not confusing, I have a Predator 212 that when installed in my Trailmaster MB 200 with a Juggernaut clutch and is close to a stage four minus the porting work it will rev out to 8600+ RPMwith the rear wheel off the ground, at 52 MPH it is close to 6500 rpm. This may not be max yet due to jetting issues i am having, but is there a need for me to have a PCV valve installed? I am now running with a probably not optimal setup on venting I have the ARC Billet side cover with both vent hole little with pulse fittings, they both run to the clear plastic valve cover that has a vent tube at the top with a filter. I also added a K&N style filter to one of the lines. I think this maybe the wrong way to do it and why i am having a problem getting of rid the off idle bog i am having. I changed the jetting this winter and it was working fine now I have spent a week going up and down with the jets I have and not finding a solution.


I know this is a ling post so sorry and I hope I can get some feedback if I am going in the wrong direction or not and if in any way my post needs clarification please let me know.

Thank you all in advance.
did you ever figure out how to properly vent your engine?
 
#4
Crankcase governor hole to valve cover for oil mist to rockers, then power brake booster check valve to catch can to vent crankcase only letting air out not in to create a vacuum in the crankcase.
By chance do you know how to do it with a billet side over because I have the governor hole plugged shut?
 
#6
Yes depending on the billet side over the ec one has a great one way valve that comes with it. Just vent it to a catch can. This engine has two pcb valves.
Awesome thanks helps a lot I’m also running a pulse pump do you recommend running it off the valve cover?
 
#12
To be honest I would vent both to the puke tank.
1 connection from crankcase to puke tank
1 connection from valve cover to puke tank.

Like OJ said lol
 
#13
Not to chime in on anyones parade, i was having oil coming out the vent. I have the 265 racer cam, billet flywheel, and rod running 26lbs valve springs, vm 22mm mikuni knockoff #100 jet. I since did the vent back to the block and used 10w40 oil. Heres pictures of how i have mine ran.. my Question is why vent the head when the new aftermarket valve covers only come with one atmosphere vent? Can i use that to the case and have a closed vent? Is the point to make the pressure the same? Why even atmosphere vent it?
 

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#14
I have no idea what your asking and I don’t see any pictures of your venting system. You want to vent engine at a minimum to atmosphere but it’s better to vent thru a check valve(s) so you pull a vacuum in the crankcase.
 

panchothedog

Well-Known Member
#15
Nolidel, you already have some money invested in your engine so get the cast aluminum valve cover from Go Power Sports. It has two threaded ports
for mounting hose bibs. Run one hose from your crankcase to the valve cover, the other from the valve cover to a catch can. This will keep the rockers and valve springs oiled really well and keep the engine clean as a whistle. I have a couple of karts set up this way. Works real good.
 
#17
Look at post #3 second picture you can see line from gov hole to valve cover. It is a direct line. My thought was to add oil vapor to rocker arms. The stock hole has a tube welded in with a check valve also. See post 3 1st pic for check valve off valve cover. Post 5 pic 1 shows check valve on sidecover.
 
#18
Are you drilling out the governor hole to accept 1/8 npt pipe threads and then use a 3/8 hose barb to 1/8npt pipe? Again the purpose is to get oil mist to the rockers?
Does the factory value cover have a build it check valve?
This is how I am running now,is this good or bad?
Thank for all the help,I'm a newbie 20220921_142431.jpg
 
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panchothedog

Well-Known Member
#19
You can drill and tap the govoner arm hole for 1/8 NPT and add a fitting.
If you are running a stock gas tank it doesn't clear very well. You can also pull off the side cover and if you go in on a slight angel where the cover starts to roll out it will clear the tank. If you run a billet side cover, it is already done for you. The factory valve cover has a baffle or plate installed in it and sorta keeps everything separated. Good for the EPA, not so good for lubercating your upper valve train
 
#20
I drilled the hole slightly larger and pressed in a 1/4 in aluminum tube. The stock valve cover has a check valve that works fine, but on my motors I'm running roller rockers and hi lift cam so I have to remove the plate that has the check valve that's why I add one. Your setup is fine.
 
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