What is the difference between completely removing the internal governor out of the small engine opposed to just bypassing it?
- Thread starter Binimike1111
- Start date
Loose parts rolling around inside an engine is not a good thing. Open it up remove it completely, install a billet flywheel and rod.
To have one come un-remanufactured is not ever something you want to happen. Body parts do not stand a chance against shrapnel coming out at Warp 3!
There's a cpl U-tube links on here that show the aftermath...
As i have learned from the greats that share their wisdom and safety.
Do it right or don't do it at all...
To have one come un-remanufactured is not ever something you want to happen. Body parts do not stand a chance against shrapnel coming out at Warp 3!
There's a cpl U-tube links on here that show the aftermath...
As i have learned from the greats that share their wisdom and safety.
Do it right or don't do it at all...
If you don't plan to spend another $300 to make it so it doesn't explode, leave it alone. There's no such thing as "FREE" power, which is why everyone tends to mess with the governor first, like everyone else that has blown theirs up in less than a month. At the rate I've been seeing these post, I should buy stock in Coleman and Harbor Freight or they should change the name of this forum to "HELP!!!, I bypassed the governor and now it don't run".
Thank you I appreciate the knowledge I am still somewhat new at working on any kind of engine what so ever lol so I WILL take your advice, thanks again. Could you please give me a list of parts I need to make it so that my engine does not blow up on me while I’m riding As budget friendly as possible would be nice.
Thank you, I’m still new to this game so your input is much appreciated!
Can you still answer my question though? What is the difference between taking off the governor internally and bypassing it externally? I’m just trying to get a good answer because I can’t find anyone who can really tell me much on it, thanks again.
Can you still answer my question though? What is the difference between taking off the governor internally and bypassing it externally? I’m just trying to get a good answer because I can’t find anyone who can really tell me much on it, thanks again.
Bypassing it leaves the governor inside the engine intact. Depending how you bypass it the governor arm will be either spring loaded against the actuator or if not the governor arm could move enough to be hit by the rotating assembly and break the top of the crankcase. If you rev the engine high enough the governor gear will break due to the centrifugal force of the weights. The oil sensor also takes up space that could be holding more oil. Other than that no difference.
Thank you, that makes sense to me for the most part. I’ve been riding this new 212 predator with mods and the old 212 predator with mods which I still have and it runs great with the governor bypassed on both by connecting the governor arm rod(not 100% on what the name of it really is) plus the spring to the bolt that holds the gas tank onto the top of the engine. Hopefully that makes sense? Sorry I’m kind of illiterate with the names of this and that 
The biggest reason people want to bypass the governor is to get more speed. The problem is these engines top out at 3600 RPM, that doesn't mean there's no power left but they are limited to 3600 RPM and whatever gearing they have. Bypassing the governor will only give you about a 10 MPH increase in speed with the same gearing but drastically decreases engine life. These engines were designed to run at 3600 RPM and modifying one doesn't just take parts, it takes tools and often times parts have to be custom fitted to the engine which also includes machining and balancing. If you're wanting to accomplish a speed gain, I would try different gearing first, there are mini bike speed calculators that will get you in the ball park of your intended speed range but just because the calculator throws out the number doesn't mean your setup will sustain it.
Hey! Thanks the reply I do appreciate it. Yes, the carburetor that WAS leaking(ended up picking up a new carb off Amazon) was on the current bike that I have. Pretty sure it was a bad seal because once I swapped out the carb and rode around for a few minutes no leaks whatsoever YET.. just to clarify what you’re saying is the 18 pound valve springs that I put in was a bad idea because I have no billet ride or fly wheel as of yet? BTW I ordered a bill at ride and fly wheel last night super excited although I have no idea how to install it LOL it should be here on the 28th of this month. I’m just honestly kind of surprised that I haven’t had any issues with an engine blowing up yet because of how hard I’ve ridden that bike with the governor bypassed over the past year. You and a few others on here have definitely convinced me to go the billet rod and flywheel route 100%. Why do you think it is that I have not had an engine blow up on me yet? Just curious I guess.. thanks again!
You would have to define ridden hard. Full throttle acceleration is running it hard but as long as you don’t overrev it will not harm it. On the other hand if you lift the rear wheel off the ground and hold the throttle wide open I doubt it would last a minute. Now if the governor was working you could lift the rear off the ground and hold the throttle open without any damage. There are many reasons the engines blow up most but not all are eliminated by replacing rod and flywheel with billet parts. Most common failures of ungoverned engines are flywheel magnets come off, rod siezed to crank, side over comes loose cracking cover, and worst of all flywheel explodes.
You'll need an inch pound torque wrench and 1/4" 12pt socket to install the rod. Having a ring compressor makes getting the piston back in a bit easier. Some Plastigage or a digital caliper is also needed to make sure the crank bearing clearance is within spec. Since you've swapped valve springs, I'm guessing you know how to set the valve lash.
BTW, the easiest way to remove the governor assembly is to use a tap to hit it out of the case. It'll come out as one piece. Then you can tap the hole and put a bolt in it. You'll need to plug the whole on the top of the case as well. There's also a thin gear on the back of the crank that can be removed. It's just press fit on and a few taps with a hammer will knock it off.
BTW, the easiest way to remove the governor assembly is to use a tap to hit it out of the case. It'll come out as one piece. Then you can tap the hole and put a bolt in it. You'll need to plug the whole on the top of the case as well. There's also a thin gear on the back of the crank that can be removed. It's just press fit on and a few taps with a hammer will knock it off.
i have been neutralizing the gov for years.
i leave everything stock and pin the gov arm in a neutral position.
i have not had one come apart...
bikes approach 40 mph ..for a home spun and novice rider imo this is a better option.
also these are chinese knock off engines they knocked off the predator who knocked off the honda...
i leave everything stock and pin the gov arm in a neutral position.
i have not had one come apart...
bikes approach 40 mph ..for a home spun and novice rider imo this is a better option.
also these are chinese knock off engines they knocked off the predator who knocked off the honda...
I took the governor arm off and just let the post that protrudes through the block keep sticking thru. Apparently the part I took off keeps the other pieces of the governor on the inside of the crankcase from getting in the way of the crank. The crankshaft hammered those pieces right through the side of the engine and ruined it. It's trash. SO I went to harbor freight with a coupon and got the Hemi 212 predator for $99. This time I watched the youtube videos on how to take all the governor parts out of the engine the correct way and I am much happier. I still have the 212 where the crank blasted parts through the side of the engine. If anyone wants photos. If you bypass the governor on the outside you MUST take the rest of the gov out of the inside of the engine or it will eventually get in the way of the spinning crank and blow a large hole thru the side of the engine.
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