Will an aluminum exhaust pipe melt? Yes.

Minimichael

Well-Known Member
#1
Consider this a public service announcement:

1. I learned the hard way that long iron pipe headers screwed into a flathead can tear out the block's threads. All the rattling.

2. I've experimented with aluminum fittings at the block port to reduce this damage. Followed it with steel flex pipe to keep weight down, too.

3. Posted about it, too. I was going with my gut and figured they'd at least share the same expansion rate. Welp, see the attached chart on why cast iron is #2 only to titanium in terms of stability and I had wrongly considered the different metal expansion rates to be a co-culprit.

4. When I recently treated my stainless steel flex exhaust to a fiberglass wrap, I also came across some advice -- that you shouldn't wrap the first few inches of a header -- to let some heat dissipate because the wrap won't allow for it further along the pipe.

5. My aluminum stubs had been working great on my minis, to date. Always came a little loose, but never came out (like the iron pipe did that one day ...). I even wrapped the aluminum stub with some copper foil I had, not expecting a problem.

6. Took my newly wrapped header out for a ride today and the aluminum fitting had finally seen enough. I believe the design eventually channeled too much heat through that little stub. I felt some stinging on my leg from the slag and looked down to see it just starting to melt and spit molten aluminum from 2 different spots (and likely would have soon melted through had I not shut it down).

Phew. Don't use aluminum.

I'm not in the market for a titanium header just yet, but yeah I'm probably going back to good ol' black pipe here.

And see attached for references.
 

Attachments

Last edited:
#3
You are correct that a long (screw in) iron pipe can vibrate and tear up the internal threads in the block. To prevent this from happening install a header brace bolted down from under one of the head bolts to the straight section of pipe where you can secure it with a band clamp. I typically use 3/16" X 3/4" flat stock for this purpose.
Michael
 

Thepaetsguy

Well-Known Member
#4
Length changes the forces at play. Short mufflers will thread in and run from 1971 till it’s found in the weeds and revived in 2023 without loosening or wrecking the threads. but anything longer then the standard muffler warrants a header brace. Probably the best and most simple way I have ever found and become fond of is to loosely bolt a wrench down to a head bolt.. Get the pipe tight as it meets the wrench. Weld the pipe to the wrench. Tighten the head bolt.. You can just unscrew the headbolt to remove the head. Unscrewing then header means the wrench comes off. But it will keep your exhaust tight. Now we need to find out how to make thin washer intakes not loosen up.. Everyone I have ever built has loosened up. I wired the bolts and it then just took out the intake threads because the washer is way flimsier then a flange. 7B19864E-27B1-4D67-B820-80C2F6C92421.jpeg
 

Minimichael

Well-Known Member
#5
Yep, I'll be migrating back to black pipe, for safety's sake. Still no other bracing needed except at the muffler tho as I'm sticking with the flex pipe and the steel fitting will still be so short.

Just wanted to set the record straight. Wouldn't want anybody getting hurt on my advice.
 

Harquebus

Well-Known Member
#7
Length changes the forces at play. Short mufflers will thread in and run from 1971 till it’s found in the weeds and revived in 2023 without loosening or wrecking the threads. but anything longer then the standard muffler warrants a header brace. Probably the best and most simple way I have ever found and become fond of is to loosely bolt a wrench down to a head bolt.. Get the pipe tight as it meets the wrench.... View attachment 306218
Nice illustration of the concept, but that poor wrench!

Brackets and hose clamps are 'easier' all around than taking the time to weld a wrench onto the header.... But different strokes for different folks I guess...

It's a little overkill on the rigidity. No welding needed. The pipes that really need bracing are the 'trumpet style' with the loop, the longer angled pipes, anything over 10" and especially those with a RSV spark arrestor or other 'muffler' or 'hot dog' on the end.
 
Last edited:

Harquebus

Well-Known Member
#11
Aren't those chrome showerhead pipes thin wall brass with 1/2 pipe threads at both ends?
Yes, they are usually brass in my experience, but that chrome is sweet.
Looking for a muffler for another project, I found this gem.

https://www.sfxperformance.com/parts/PATH3133.htm
Everyone is always asking about better or quieter mufflers than the "Muffin" (hamburger?) Briggs 494585 or the "Hot Dog" Briggs 294599 or various other types but there's just not much info. I'm always looking for both style and function.

You should take one for the team and buy it. Then let us hear it. ;)
 

Minimichael

Well-Known Member
#14
Looking for a muffler for another project, I found this gem.

https://www.sfxperformance.com/parts/PATH3133.htm
Another awesome link. Yeah you guys got me thinking about several things. Like the inline muffler idea, glass packed, etc. The flex pipe is louder for sure, which is why I wrapped it, but I can't beat the ease of design and installation. Plus I got a new mission of trying to make it easier on the ears. Btw I bought this nice Coleman muffler that's supposed to be for a 212 I assume but it looks awfully restricted...
 

Attachments

Top