wiring a kill switch to a non-points ignition

[fhpe77]

Here's my second question for today. How would I wire a kill switch to a Tecumseh non-points ignition? I'd like to get the toggle switch that is on my frame working. I found plenty of info for the old points ignition setup but nothing for the newer ignitions. Thanks again.

-Ray

 

[creia]

Take a look on your coil for a male spade bit electrical connector. That is where you connect your female spade connector from your kill switch wire.
Michael

 

[fhpe77]

Thanks for the info Michael! My engine is equipped with the head mounted metal "switch" that you push into the spark plug wire boot. I have already made the mistake of shutting down the engine with my right hand while my left hand was touching the frame. Needless to say, it got my attention. At least I now have first hand experience that the ignition works well, pun intended. So in my current application would I find that there presently is nothing connected to the terminal on the ignition (I haven't pulled it apart yet)?

-Ray

 

[creia]

Ray,
Remove the recoil shroud and you will see the coil. The male electrical spade connector (if equipped) will be easily visible.
Michael

 

[fhpe77]

Awesome! Thanks again Michael. Once my engines gaskets arrive I will be pulling it apart for a good de-carbonizing and tappet clearance check so I will have access to the ignition. One more question. My existing switch has no wire connected to it. Is there preferred wire size for this application? I was thinking maybe 16 gauge? Would smaller work?

-Ray

 

[creia]

They are generally anywhere from 14 to 18 gauge.
Michael

 

[fhpe77]

Perfect! I'm headed out to have a closer look at the switch now and see what kind of wire I have on hand. Thanks again. :smile:

-Ray

 

[fhpe77]

Wiring the kill switch turned out to be easier than I had anticipated. Of course I realized what was up after I loosed the fuel tank and removed the shroud, thus making the job much harder. Anyway, the coil already has a wire going from the spade terminal to an insulated screw/terminal on one of the heat shields. Turns out that all I had to do was run a wire from the kill switch to this insulated terminal which allows the kill switch to short the coil to ground. Here's some pics:

The switch was spray bombed silver like the rest of the bike. This paint preserved the switch's finish. I cleaned it in solvent and gave it a nice polish with the Dremel:



Here's the switch installed:



And finally, the insulated terminal and wiring:



One last note, I was sure to loosen all of the head bolts then torque them back to 200 in-lbs. Seems to run the same as it did prior to this operation. I guess Tecumseh makes some good head gaskets.

-Ray

 

[creia]

Job well done!
Michael