Shifter Minibike Build

#21
Nice work on the spacers. Maybe this will work for you: I added valve stem extensions (from Advance Auto) for the Bosch rear wheels on my Gilsons. Was impossible otherwise to add air with the wheel/tire/brake drum installed.
 
#23
Nice work on the spacers. Maybe this will work for you: I added valve stem extensions (from Advance Auto) for the Bosch rear wheels on my Gilsons. Was impossible otherwise to add air with the wheel/tire/brake drum installed.

My tubes arrived and the valve stems are just long enough so that the tires will likely be filled without a problem. Thanks again for your response.
 
#24



I finally finished my brake caliper mounting. The components are a very tight fit! I need to get 5mm longer mounting bolts so that the nuts will have enough thread to mate to.

Not only are there many cool build-off bikes here, but I have gained an appreciation for how you guys build a bike within the time limit. Having said that, much of my time has been spent improving my shop capabilities. I picked up a new Lincoln 180 welder from Home Depot, they had a very good price. I also got a plasma cutter and am figuring out the limits of it. Its kind of tricky to cut smaller parts given the precision required. I think it will be fine for larger parts. I have found my Mini Lathe works much better than ever since I found some information on the net about how to give it a "tune up." No more chattering! Plus, the upgraded tool post has made it much easier to set up.
 

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#25
No doubt Aston ...thats a great looking brake set up, and should work good to ! Nice job on the installation also ...:thumbsup: and the next time you build a brake set up it will be much easier.
 
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#26
A plasma cutter is a god sent. I used to have (still kinda do) have access to one but most of my cutting is done with a torch (and time spent cleaning with a grinder). Once you get the hang of it you will have no problem doing more detail work.

The mini lathes and mini mills do need to be fine tuned but once they are they work really well. I really need a kick in the pants because a few years back I had had both fall in my lap for a really good price (mill $150 and lathe $200). At the time I just picked up the mill because its all the spare cash I had on me and was supposed to go back and get the lathe in a few weeks. I went back 2 weeks later and the guy had moved. I use a lathe way more often, shoulda just borrowed the $50 from dad and got it then instead of paying way more for one later.


My only critique is when you go to get longer caliper mounting bolts I would suggest getting button head allen bolts. The clearance is most likely fine with those socket head bolts but on something like that more clearance is always better.
 
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#27
No doubt Aston ...thats a great looking brake set up, and should work good to ! Nice job on the installation also ...:thumbsup: and the next time you build a brake set up it will be much easier.
Thanks for your comment, OND. I have decided to put some spacers between the caliper and the backing nuts in order to beef things up. The screws could probably use the help as they are being stressed in sheer mode.
 
#28
A plasma cutter is a god sent. I used to have (still kinda do) have access to one but most of my cutting is done with a torch (and time spent cleaning with a grinder). Once you get the hang of it you will have no problem doing more detail work.

The mini lathes and mini mills do need to be fine tuned but once they are they work really well. I really need a kick in the pants because a few years back I had had both fall in my lap for a really good price (mill $150 and lathe $200). At the time I just picked up the mill because its all the spare cash I had on me and was supposed to go back and get the lathe in a few weeks. I went back 2 weeks later and the guy had moved. I use a lathe way more often, shoulda just borrowed the $50 from dad and got it then instead of paying way more for one later.


My only critique is when you go to get longer caliper mounting bolts I would suggest getting button head allen bolts. The clearance is most likely fine with those socket head bolts but on something like that more clearance is always better.
I think the button head idea is good. I hope I can find that type with enough threaded length as most of the longer screws have long shoulders with threads only at the end of them.
 
#29
Dang Gary that setup looks better than factory!! Was wondering how you were getting along just yesterday!! Glad you chimed in with an update so I didn't have to look like a mother hen!! :laugh: You are getting close my friend and I'm enjoying your attention to detail!! :thumbsup:
 
#30
Dang Gary that setup looks better than factory!! Was wondering how you were getting along just yesterday!! Glad you chimed in with an update so I didn't have to look like a mother hen!! :laugh: You are getting close my friend and I'm enjoying your attention to detail!! :thumbsup:
Thanks for looking in, jdogg! Next I am going to fab and install the engine mounting components. I want to be sure I am happy with where I decide to put the foot pegs. My engine/trans looks wide enough to maybe require the pegs to be fairly long, if that is where my ankles end up! Come to think of it, the shifter will decide where the pegs go. Sometimes, just talking out loud to someone makes one think.

I have found that the high-build primer I am using on the frame is not adhering well. Can you recommend a good primer to use? Perhaps a metal etching type?
 
#31
I think the button head idea is good. I hope I can find that type with enough threaded length as most of the longer screws have long shoulders with threads only at the end of them.
Another suggestion is to look in the yellow pages and see if you can find a local bolt and nut supply house. Most of the bigger chain type stores (like fastenal) will require minimum orders on some things (often 25 pieces) but if you can find a smaller mom and pop shop you can go in and get just one or oddball numbers like 142. You don't mind the wait they can order the exact part you want if available instead of dealing with whats on the rack.

Become a regular and they might even give you a good discount. The shop I use is way out of the way but has often thrown things like allen sets in the bag and has even given me smaller orders for being a regular.

In a pinch in the past I have threaded the shoulder of a bolt but I have a tap and die set. Not something I would want to do on a large number but for just 2 bolts I would.
 
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#32
Thanks neo. I have discovered there is a Fastenal near me so will check with them. The other supplier in my area doesn't have what I want. I have SAE dies, but maybe buying one metric die would be a good way to go. One way or another, something will work.
 
#33
fastenal is overpriced. avoid if you can. some primers arent actually primer, sometimes just grey paint. what brand high build are you using? and yes, always use acid etch primer on bare metal, you will thank yourself later
 
#34
fastenal is overpriced. avoid if you can.
I couldn't agree more. I actually drive my gas guzzler 30 minutes past fastenal to the other place and save money. The local one never has anything in stock, the people working are jerks (thats location dependent issue I know), and it seems like anything I need only comes in a minimum order of 25+ pieces (most of the time I only need less than 10). Prime example one time I needed some security bolts, 20 to be exact, and fastenal only didn't stock them but told me I had to order 100 of them at over $100. I was out of town on a job is the only reason why I stopped in the place. Ended up going back home to the mom and pop shop and they ordered exactly 20 with no problem, had them in 2 days, and I'm not sitting on 80 bolts I'll never have a use for.

I just name dropped fastenal because they are like a wart on a toads butt. Every time you blink and new one pops up (I still don't want to touch them).
 
#35
yeah they dont care about you unless you are ready to order bulk. we had a small buisness and they were not interested in helping us because we were still changing our product around needing different hardware and could not order in the amounts they want to sell you things in

im not sure why they even have stores... seems like they only want to do buisness with large companies that need overpriced hardware in large amounts...
 
#36
fastenal is overpriced. avoid if you can. some primers arent actually primer, sometimes just grey paint. what brand high build are you using? and yes, always use acid etch primer on bare metal, you will thank yourself later
The brand is Dupli-Color. I'm going go to the local professional body shop supply house where I've bought high quality spray paint in a can before. Always expensive, but worth it. I went to my local Fastenal today and the guy was as helpful as he could be. Unfortunately they didn't have the screws with full threads like I want.
 
#37
Today I picked up a spray can of metal etch primer at the body shop supply store. Yep, expensive at $25, but I've got canned spray paint from this suppler before and hardware store paint doesn't even compare. I was going to have my bike powder coated, but decided to paint it myself.

Then, I got a seat of metric taps and dies in order to lengthen the threads of the caliper halves screws, which I have extended and am using additionally as mounting screws. Oh my gosh, my poor little vise had a hard time with the twisting needed to cut the m8-1.25 threads. For that matter, so didI! 2 and 1/2 hours of fighting! I had to put an allen wrench into the screw and clamp the wrench to the vise to keep the screw from twisting. i used a heck of a lot of oil but it was still really slow going.

Ain't OND's bike beautiful? Oh, what a feeling!
 
#38
Today I picked up a spray can of metal etch primer at the body shop supply store. Yep, expensive at $25, but I've got canned spray paint from this suppler before and hardware store paint doesn't even compare. I was going to have my bike powder coated, but decided to paint it myself.

Ain't OND's bike beautiful? Oh, what a feeling!
Hey Aston try this. https://www.amazon.com/SEM-39673-Bl...coding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=YCAEP1B6NHVS6HQ9202Z

Good stuff and delivered to your door.

The best thread cutting oil I have found is Rapid Tap. I buy mine from Travers Tool. Rapid Tap Cutting Fluid

Good for drilling too.
 
#39
Thanks for the tips, FOMOCO (apparently a fellow Mustang driver). The SEM primer is exactly what I bought, except mine is gray. I'm glad to hear it is good stuff!

Today I fab'd one of the two engine mount verticals for which Jason gave me the pattern. One down, one to go.
 
#40
I can help with this some. I use Boltdepot.com for orders. If you use automotive epoxy primer first, life will be good. You can buy that in quarts from Summit Racing but you need to do it outside with a respirator. All 2 part paints are hazardous. I understand the rattle can ease but the quality isn't there in most. Eastwood has some good rattle can paint but you may not like the price. It looks to me like you're going to have a really nice bike. Do you want to skimp on paint which will be one of the first things people see? :)
 
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