manual clutch for horizontal shaft engine

[briggsscooter2]

Check out the links below to see the clutch in action. We've come to the realization that we definitely need more horsepower to really put the prototype through its paces, and we'll make that our next project. That being said, the clutch handles this stock predator with ease. In the video you'll see that we're using a lever to actuate the clutch, but the production clutch will be operated via cable.

Custom Manual Clutch Go Kart Burn-out Predator 212 - YouTube

Custom Manual Clutch Predator 212 Kart - YouTube

Also, we did some primitive torque testing to determine the maximum torque capacity before slippage of the clutch. We used a breaker bar on the crank and locked up the sprocket using an extra piece of chain clamped to our weld table. We then hung weights off the end of the breaker bar and determined the max capacity to be 42 ft-lbs. In the future, we will offer springs with different load ratings so that users can select a spring setting based on their specific setup.

 

[Neck]

So I'm assuming the clutch is engaged until it is released with the lever. right?

 

[briggsscooter2]

So I'm assuming the clutch is engaged until it is released with the lever. right?

No, the clutch is engaged when the lever is released, just like on a car or motorcycle. If we hooked a lever onto the steering wheel, the clutch would be disengaged when the lever is pulled in.

We could actually hook a cable operated lever up to this clutch, but a lever was easier to set up at the time and good enough to prove concept.

 

[Neck]

Very COOL! So how long till you can start to selling completed units, estimated.

 

[rdog348]

I've been watching this for a while and you're making great progress. :thumbsup: This is probably a dumb question, but could smaller HP engines handle this clutch without problems, or is this going to be strictly a big HP engine clutch?

 

[briggsscooter2]

I've been watching this for a while and you're making great progress. :thumbsup: This is probably a dumb question, but could smaller HP engines handle this clutch without problems, or is this going to be strictly a big HP engine clutch?

Thanks for the encouragement! This clutch will definitely work on smaller displacement engines.

 

[briggsscooter2]

Just to keep you guys in the loop, here's a set of renderings for the 3/4" 14 tooth #35 chain production parts. The finish will be black oxide coating, these things will look nice!

 

[toomanytoys]

Really cool.

I'd be all over one if the price was right.

 

[briggsscooter2]

Really cool.

I'd be all over one if the price was right.

Glad to hear it. We're thinking around $100-125.

 

[Txpowdercoater]

put me on the list as well, thanks

 

[Oldsalt]

Count me in. When you have established a retail price and are ready for the money, I am ready for the clutch.

I want a low serial number of course. [Just kidding but I'll bet I've started something by mentioning that!]

 

[briggsscooter2]

Count me in. When you have established a retail price and are ready for the money, I am ready for the clutch.

I want a low serial number of course. [Just kidding but I'll bet I've started something by mentioning that!]

Will do, Oldsalt!

In case anyone is curious, the total weight of the assembled clutch will be 4.05 pounds. However, the rotating mass is only 2.9 pounds and is the figure that should be used when comparing this clutch to centrifugal clutches on the market. I believe 2.9 pounds is very close to the weight of a standard cent clutch.

Also, the diameter is 4.125" and the length is 2.65".

 

[Txpowdercoater]

a heavier mass unit would be cool for drag racing, wind it up, hold on and unleash the hounds of hell!

 

[Beal]

Cool beans! Im looking forward to maybe getting one of these lovely devices...

 

[Neck]

Am I looking at a Planetary drive?

 

[PhilosoRaptor]

Also very interested in this product. Simply amazing what you created thus far.

I would be interested in seeing more of how this would work while being cable operated. Are there any brackets/hook ups/cable guides necessary that need to be attached to the engine block?

Also when the clutch material wears down how much will this effect the cable/lever travel needed to disengage the clutch?

I would be looking for a #40 chain/10 tooth sprocket if possible :thumbsup:

Looking forward to further developments via this thread or your website!!

 

[toomanytoys]

Glad to hear it. We're thinking around $100-125.

Not a bad price at all!!!

 

[james c]

put me on the list as well:thumbsup:

 

[james c]

I'm thinking almost all motorcycle clutches were wet. Except maybe the old the CZ 500 and HD. Which one do you know about that is approx. the right size and dry? It might also be hard to machine existing bores and shafts to work in the new configuration because the hubs and etc. are hard as hell. I have thought about it for a long time and have sorta came to the conclusion that a scratch build would be the way to go in as much as a lot of work would still be necessary to make a motorcycle clutch work.

Interestingly [interesting to me anyways] there has been no shouts that it won't work and that a centrifugal is better in every way and that anyone that says different is stupid. That is basically what the response was when I posted a thread about manual clutches a number of years ago! Times change.

here is a brittish burman dry clutch and gearbox used on mustang trail machines, maybe once the clutch is done you might come up with a trans to link up? also a kickstarter?

 

[george3]

How do you service it?