Search results

130-140 will run a lot better on the top end than a 95 main. Keep in mind once you start swapping exhaust and performing other engine mods your jets may need changed again. The Hisun can be made into a heck of a little engine.

You might have a lean bog but I gave up on my chikuni after never being able to tune it. Swapped it out for a vm22-133 and it was easy to tune.

Its a crap part and mine was worn like yours. I also noticed the tensioner arm was tilted off angle when moving up and down.

For a vast amount of builds a 22mm Chikuni or VM22-133 will be ideal. I found the VM22-133 to be the way easier option as far as tuning as long as you start with a 15-20 pilot and ~130 main jet.

You are lean on the idle circuit. Slightly richen up the pilot jet.

If it backfires off throttle you may have an air leak at the header/engine junction or your pilot could be too small. I had backfiring on the stock carb after some mods a couple years ago and ended up slightly reaming out the pilot and this fixed it. Maybe this will fix both problems.

Do what ole4 said and then let us know what jets you are using. Japanese vm22-133 is handle up/plunger down and handle down/plunger up for enrichment which will almost always easily run high enough RPM to take off on you. Most clones run around a 130 main and 15-17.5 pilot. When I purchased...

I run the Mikuni VM22-133 and it should be plenty carb for your build. Would not go any bigger. Throttle modulation is great on the Mikuni. Are you talking about intake manifold or the actual intake filter?

I put a rear rim on the front and now have a front drum brake but it sounds like you need dual discs for that speed.

Where do you live, Antarctica?

What a great ride. Thanks for sharing. I am thinking about buying kenda scorpions when its time to replace my tires. Did you get 19x7-8 or 20x7-8?

Good luck. A friend had a similar procedure and they are doing great. Just make sure to follow the recovery procedures 100%.

I would completely remove the governor and plug the hole. If you will be opening up the engine in a couple months to upgrade parts then maybe its okay to wait but at some point you should remove the gear.

44 mph right now. Geared it one time to see how fast it could go but once it hit 50 and was still pulling I knew that was fast enough for me. Found myself rarely going over 40 so I lowered the gearing.

There should be a small washer on the top of the frame and one on the bottom to eliminate that gap between the triple tree.

If there is no way your engine can spin 8000 then the tach is either broken, installed incorrectly or the setting is incorrect. just change the setting until its close to your calculated rpm/MPH. It appears you may be doubling your rpms so its gotta be the setting. I could be wrong but pretty...

You probably have the tach set to the wrong type of engine. Depending on the setting, my tach can read double the actual rpms. As far as accuracy, mine only changes about 100-200 rpms depending on 4-6 wraps of the wire. Compare your rpms to your gps speed, gearing and tire size and you can...

Damn that's awesome. Wish I had a place to ride like you do.

Thought I would finally share my ride. Coleman CT200U-EX Extended front and rear fenders Front brake added by swapping out the stock front rim with a rear rim, fabricated bracket and U bolt. Garmin Edge GPS Lenzyne Light from mountain bike Engine: Hisun 196CC NR Racing 18CC Honda Head, milled...