1969 h35

#1
Got this Craftsman H35 going last night and gonna put it into action ASAP. I have a clutch brake fetish though and wondering if anyone ever brought their motor to a machine shop to drill out the bosses around the PTO. Is that an expensive thang?

Also is this here woodruff key gonna make live difficult with a clutch? I didn't notice it had one till last night.







Going bare except for the shroud on this one. Love that look.
 

markus

Well-Known Member
#2
You'd most likely have to run the sprocket side outward, and given that wide step down off the engine its going to stick way off the side of the bike. The shaft also looks like it has a bit of a step as well. If you can run it in that configuration, then your next problem will be spacing the band brake since it will be closer than normal.

Be better off using a donor crankshaft and sidecover than even futzing with all that I would think.
 
#4
You'd most likely have to run the sprocket side outward, and given that wide step down off the engine its going to stick way off the side of the bike. The shaft also looks like it has a bit of a step as well. If you can run it in that configuration, then your next problem will be spacing the band brake since it will be closer than normal.

Be better off using a donor crankshaft and sidecover than even futzing with all that I would think.
That step is an optical illusion actually. Smooth as a baby's butt there. If I remember correctly it had one of those snowblower clutches there so maybe it made a mark. I'm sure I have pics when I got it. But that was like 8 months ago... I was hoping I could run the sprocket inboard.
 
#6
All done with this one. Went with the bare look for the motor and shroud and air filters/ exhaust painted. The clutch is on and the sprocket sticks out just about 3 inches, due to the small step the crank has that Markus was talking about. It had to go on outboard style as the crank has the key close to the engine and not towards the end. I think a clutch brake should just make it. So I'm still thinking of have those bosses tapped. Has anyone ever paid a machine shop to do that? Wondering what it's going to cost me. If it's crazy expensive I'll forget about it.



 

bikebudy

Banned - Must pay $500
#7
Brian, the H30 I have has that dam woodruff key. The clutch that works with it is the Normand 3" clutch.

Only thing is this Normand and others I've seen are #40 sprocket. Have not seen one yet that was a #35.

I have not found a modern clutch that has a full cut key-way. Most have the casted in key.

Check a case that already has the holes drilled, check how deep they are.

Mark center with a punch, Mark the bit with tape so you know when to stop.
Start with a smaller drill bit and keep stepping up to the next size.
Then take your time and tap the threads.
 
#8
Brian, the H30 I have has that dam woodruff key. The clutch that works with it is the Normand 3" clutch.

Only thing is this Normand and others I've seen are #40 sprocket. Have not seen one yet that was a #35.

I have not found a modern clutch that has a full cut key-way. Most have the casted in key.

Check a case that already has the holes drilled, check how deep they are.

Mark center with a punch, Mark the bit with tape so you know when to stop.
Start with a smaller drill bit and keep stepping up to the next size.
Then take your time and tap the threads.
I only have hand drills, my friend. No way I'm attempting this with one. Lol. That NORAM clutch on there will be ok.
 
#9
I only have hand drills, my friend. No way I'm attempting this with one. Lol. That NORAM clutch on there will be ok.
Yeah, I drilled mine out. I used the depth of other engines as a guide. I have never mastered the skill of centering anything. I don't know why, but I suck at it. So I drilled my slightly offset holes, tapped with 1/4-20 since I didn't really need the 5/16-24 or whatever it is, and fabricated my own clutch guard. It looks great from 10 feet away, and works like a champ. LOL.
 
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