So I have an HS40 with slanted intake that came with a mini I bought and I am wondering if the HS40's that had lighting coils are much different other than the coil and flywheel from those that did not. Mine does not currently have one. So what I am asking is if I did get the correct coil and flywheel would it be a direct swap that would fit? Would I need a different recoil housing? Anyone know the answer to that?
The output side of the crankshaft has nothing to do with the flywheel side. Tecumseh HS40 and HS50 points engines use the aluminum flywheels or cast iron ones. If you want a aluminum one there two to chose from. TEC. PN. 32517 is non lighted flywheel. TEC. PN. 610769 is the lighted flywheel. And you also need the ignition assemble with the lighting coil on the bottom of it. I do not think the newer engines with the electronic ignition used a aluminum flywheels, All of my newer engine have cast iron flywheels. But T-Mack has a lighting kit for the newer engines. Brandt sells them on his site, Ruppparts.com.
I'm well aware of that .. Some people might get the idea well I'll just buy a crank from a rupp engine
I was simply pointing out the fact that rupp cranks are longer :thumbsup:
Most of the cranks on either 4/5hp have a different thickness on the tapered side of the crank shaft
Ruppparts.com main page never seems to load for me
A google search gives me this page
PartsList
But I found rupparts.com as a seller on this site
RuppParts.com's booth at Bonanzle - Collectibles, Other, Other
That would Kick :censure:
Thanks for that info I'll have to look into it
Depends on the crank you have if your looking for the parts for an older tecumseh your going to pay an arm and a leg unless you find a complete sun dried turd in a barn or on craigslist
Direct swap
Yep, it's pretty much a direct swap of the flywheels and ignition assembly. The two aluminum flywheels will look almost the same except for the number of magnets cast in. The magneto ignition and coil assembly looks almost the same, except that the one has two small coils on the bottom (they are 3 amp, AC lighting coils). There are two positive (AC) wires coming off, plus a ground or stop wire for the engine ignition. You can use either of the positive leads to a headlight, and ground the other terminal to the bulb. This will work even with a 12 vDC bulb, but it will dim at low engine speed.
When swapping the flywheels and ignitions, you have to adjust the clearance between the main ignition coil from the flywheel when mounting. I'm told the gap or clearance on this is the thickness of a standard business card.
You can swap these parts directly between hs40 motors, and even hs50 motors. Newer motors have flywheels with taller vanes and boxier shrouds, but the older flywheels will work in either shroud. This may mean that you may have to keep shroud with it's matching flywheel, but they mount the same.
Yep, it's pretty much a direct swap of the flywheels and ignition assembly. The two aluminum flywheels will look almost the same except for the number of magnets cast in. The magneto ignition and coil assembly looks almost the same, except that the one has two small coils on the bottom (they are 3 amp, AC lighting coils). There are two positive (AC) wires coming off, plus a ground or stop wire for the engine ignition. You can use either of the positive leads to a headlight, and ground the other terminal to the bulb. This will work even with a 12 vDC bulb, but it will dim at low engine speed.
When swapping the flywheels and ignitions, you have to adjust the clearance between the main ignition coil from the flywheel when mounting. I'm told the gap or clearance on this is the thickness of a standard business card.
You can swap these parts directly between hs40 motors, and even hs50 motors. Newer motors have flywheels with taller vanes and boxier shrouds, but the older flywheels will work in either shroud. This may mean that you may have to keep shroud with it's matching flywheel, but they mount the same.
Like every one has said, you can throw part between them with no issues. As long as it's a points type. But on the Tecumseh's you don't really adjust the coil away from the fly wheel, like you do on a Briggs for clearance. The Tecumseh assy. as you know is held down by the two bolts, but when you turn the coil your actually advancing or retarding it. I've seen guys on here looking for off set keys, and another guy telling some one you can't advance the timing on one, which is wrong. When you turn the coil assembly it's the same as turning the distributer in a conventional engine. It's surprising what a little spark advance will do. Very surprising.:thumbsup:
This is Brandt's method, that was passed on to me from my buddy ruppster81
You just need a caliper that can measure depth. Brandt told me this trick you just measure .35 BTDC from the block deck to the top of the piston and reassemble the engine being really careful to not bump or move the crank while installing the head and mag assembly, then you set your point gap to .20 on the highest part of the lobe then connect a volt meter using the diode setting and turn the mag until the volt meter shows the connection broke then lock the stator down and its done.
This is Brandt's method, that was passed on to me from my buddy ruppster81
You just need a caliper that can measure depth. Brandt told me this trick you just measure .35 BTDC from the block deck to the top of the piston and reassemble the engine being really careful to not bump or move the crank while installing the head and mag assembly, then you set your point gap to .20 on the highest part of the lobe then connect a volt meter using the diode setting and turn the mag until the volt meter shows the connection broke then lock the stator down and its done.
:shrug::hammer: piece of:censure: