A work in progress.

den35

New Member
#1
Ok.I realize it's not pretty.But it runs like the wind and pulls like an ox.

I managed to mount the 5.5hp clone to the frame,but the drive chain to the jackshaft was too loose.The engine can't move and I had no half-links.But a DB30 tensioner worked nicely.

I used an old piece of cast iron waterpipe for an exhaust.Sounds like a Harley now(no muffler).

I extended the footpegs with square steel tubing to give a place to put our feet,as the bigger engine covered the original footbar.

The square aluminium tubing on the former gas tank mounts is a place for my son to put his feet.

As I said earlier,it's not pretty.What it is though is a work in progress.I'm planning proper footpegs further back on the frame(where they should be),a clutch cover,new seat and fresh tires and paint.But for using what I had on hand,I think it's going well.

Oh.The last pic is my wife and son on the bike,demonstrating the engine mounted footrest.
 

OldMan

New Member
#4
den35,

It looks just fine to me... the idea that all minis need to be museum-quality show pieces is flat silly, IMO. I like the looks of a bike that's been ridden and enjoyed :thumbsup: much more than one that's just been spit-polished and fawned over! :thumbdown:
 

den35

New Member
#5
Thanks guys.It's been a "learn as I go" project.I know now to get a longer jackshaft,move the engine over 4",and put the engine-to-jackshaft drive to the outside of the frame to balance it better.I also learned that copper water pipe WILL NOT work as an exhaust(solder melts within 10 seconds of starting the engine),and don't even bother trying to arc weld copper pipe either.

Wonder what I will learn next?:wink:
 
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#6
Just a suggestion..you might want to flip the chain tensioner over so that the tension is placed upward on the outside of the chain instead of downward on the inside of the chain.

 
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den35

New Member
#7
I had tried that.And it seemed like a good idea at the time.But the roller hit the engine case.The chain is too long and I don't have any half-links to shorten it to the right length(full links shorten it too much and the engine mount holes are not slotted).

When I slide the engine over I'm gonna try moving it back a bit as well.Then I won't need the tensioner.
 
#8
You have to "silver solder" the copper, if your going to use it for an exhaust. At least it will take a higher heat anyway. It requires higher heat. Is that a Kawasaki?
 

den35

New Member
#9
Nope.It's an Arctic Cat Prowler.

Silver solder,eh.Would brazing work?I know I can do that.Just need to get some more oxygen.
 
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