adding these parts
- Thread starter oldschoolmbrida
- Start date
- Tags adding parts
$29.00 $29.00
HON16166 GX140 Emulsion Tube $15.00 $15.00
HON** Main Jet $6.00 $6.00
HON__: 90
ARC6270 ARC Billet Rod With Bearings $59.00 $59.00
HON13101 Flat Top Piston $23.00 $23.00
HON13010 Ring Set, Standard Bore $18.00 $18.00
ARC6619 ARC Racing Billet Flywheel $105.00 $105.00
AGKBK Grade 10.9 Bolt Kit With Washers & Dowel Pins $10.00 $10.00
HON14751 Valve Spring, 18lb. $4.00 $8.00
Total: $273.00
HON16166 GX140 Emulsion Tube $15.00 $15.00
HON** Main Jet $6.00 $6.00
HON__: 90
ARC6270 ARC Billet Rod With Bearings $59.00 $59.00
HON13101 Flat Top Piston $23.00 $23.00
HON13010 Ring Set, Standard Bore $18.00 $18.00
ARC6619 ARC Racing Billet Flywheel $105.00 $105.00
AGKBK Grade 10.9 Bolt Kit With Washers & Dowel Pins $10.00 $10.00
HON14751 Valve Spring, 18lb. $4.00 $8.00
Total: $273.00
Ported and polished 14cc Head, Yahmaha 1.2 rockers ( maybe thats something I hear helps flow a bit more, but your small carb and short durration cam are the real limiting factor ), Honda stellite valves and retainers. Ditch the OEM carb and parts. If your looking for something thats about the same size but works better .625 ventury Tillotson HL166B about 60 bucks on Eprey and its fully adjustable and easy to tune.
Use the 14cc head with the stock dish piston or the flat top with the 18cc head ( 18cc flows better because the 14cc needs porting and unshrouding ).
Use the flat top with the 14cc and your going to need to burn some 100LL cut with pump premium.
If you raise the compression I would advance the timing 4 deg and see how that works out. I don't think more timing is much use inless your turning faster than 6000 rpm.
I don't think you need the bolt and dowl pin kit a tricp to a nut and bolt suplier can give you some stronger head bolts and side cover bolts.
Check out ARC's Kartrax videos and see how they set up these engines for BP class. Most of what you see there is what your after but you can increase your compression safely up to 10:1 and burn Premium unleaded.
Use the 14cc head with the stock dish piston or the flat top with the 18cc head ( 18cc flows better because the 14cc needs porting and unshrouding ).
Use the flat top with the 14cc and your going to need to burn some 100LL cut with pump premium.
If you raise the compression I would advance the timing 4 deg and see how that works out. I don't think more timing is much use inless your turning faster than 6000 rpm.
I don't think you need the bolt and dowl pin kit a tricp to a nut and bolt suplier can give you some stronger head bolts and side cover bolts.
Check out ARC's Kartrax videos and see how they set up these engines for BP class. Most of what you see there is what your after but you can increase your compression safely up to 10:1 and burn Premium unleaded.
:laugh:MDB will probably sugest the 18cc head with the flat top for a couple of reasons. Name the flat top and 18cc creates a quench area that helps promote fuel mix better than the dish. The OEM piston and wrist pin are not the equal to the OEM honda parts. I smashed a Lifan wrsit pin last year so I will agree with thet assesment.
Do some shopping for a good carb.
The 166 is not going to make a significant power increase over the factory carb but it is a wee bit bigger. Where its better is you can make an intake with a smoother transition for better flow. There are a couple of larger alternatives in the .750 range but you don't need bigger than that.
I have a different view of carbs. Most go with a large carb intended for the best top end power, and thats a reasonable choice if your drag racing or running on a track at 50% or more power most of the time.
I feel going with a smaller carb is better for something you just plan to drive because its a bit more responsive in the bottom end and promotes better mixing at lower speeds.
You can compensate somewhat for a small venturie by going to a cam with longer intake durration but there will be a compromise there in a little less bottom end torque.
Compression and will help make some of the loss back but its a very fuzzy area because the experts here do not tune for low end torque anf low RPM performance.
Gets fuzzier still if you went to the .750 carb instead then your better off with a little more lift and less durration because the engine can take a bigger gulp of charge in a shorter durration but large carbs are less friendly at lower speeds.....
I will leave that up to you to decide and strongly sugest you do some research on what parts work best together and match them to the load and power requirements.
Things to look at the CL modified cams or small cams for stock apearing engines on small tracks. Others will differe in opinion but the goal for a small build fun drive is not to go big or go home but to remove all the emissions and low octane compromise from the engine and allow the design as intended to product its full potential while preserving low end performance. Something that screams at 7000 may not be much fun at all trying to put down the twisty dirt road.
Oh yes one more thing to remember.
The candle that burns twice as bright does so half as long.
The less RPM you turn, the less compression you run, the less stress on your components the longer they can be expected last and be reliable.
Clutching is the next HUGE thing to consider too.
Clutch must match the engine, the load and ratio.
Do some shopping for a good carb.
The 166 is not going to make a significant power increase over the factory carb but it is a wee bit bigger. Where its better is you can make an intake with a smoother transition for better flow. There are a couple of larger alternatives in the .750 range but you don't need bigger than that.
I have a different view of carbs. Most go with a large carb intended for the best top end power, and thats a reasonable choice if your drag racing or running on a track at 50% or more power most of the time.
I feel going with a smaller carb is better for something you just plan to drive because its a bit more responsive in the bottom end and promotes better mixing at lower speeds.
You can compensate somewhat for a small venturie by going to a cam with longer intake durration but there will be a compromise there in a little less bottom end torque.
Compression and will help make some of the loss back but its a very fuzzy area because the experts here do not tune for low end torque anf low RPM performance.
Gets fuzzier still if you went to the .750 carb instead then your better off with a little more lift and less durration because the engine can take a bigger gulp of charge in a shorter durration but large carbs are less friendly at lower speeds.....
I will leave that up to you to decide and strongly sugest you do some research on what parts work best together and match them to the load and power requirements.
Things to look at the CL modified cams or small cams for stock apearing engines on small tracks. Others will differe in opinion but the goal for a small build fun drive is not to go big or go home but to remove all the emissions and low octane compromise from the engine and allow the design as intended to product its full potential while preserving low end performance. Something that screams at 7000 may not be much fun at all trying to put down the twisty dirt road.
Oh yes one more thing to remember.
The candle that burns twice as bright does so half as long.
The less RPM you turn, the less compression you run, the less stress on your components the longer they can be expected last and be reliable.
Clutching is the next HUGE thing to consider too.
Clutch must match the engine, the load and ratio.
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Flat top pisotn yields just under 9 : 1 compression assuming no suprises like you in the hole .050. Thats not much. Add a cleaned up 14cc head and stock dish and things become much more responsive at 10 : 1 for about the same cost.
Find a 14cc clone head on a 5.5 clone ( dead chinese generators from a repair depot are somewhere between a box of doughnuts and 20 bucks ) and touch it up with a dremel tool ( ask how and research this ).
Add a header, aftermarket airfilter, a nice little header and adjust the jetting as needed.
Do that for now and see if thats all you need.
You can make your clone turn 5000 rpm witht he governer and these simple cheap mods and it will be reliable still burn pump gas and you can spend the rest of your money on front brakes.
Your the guy with the 165 right?
The money you save could buy you a rear wheel assembly right now from the classified section ( roller Baja Warrior thread ).
Going faster is great, Stopping faster is highly under rated.
Also watch and learn from Tom at ARC...
http://www.ustream.tv/channel/karttrax
Find a 14cc clone head on a 5.5 clone ( dead chinese generators from a repair depot are somewhere between a box of doughnuts and 20 bucks ) and touch it up with a dremel tool ( ask how and research this ).
Add a header, aftermarket airfilter, a nice little header and adjust the jetting as needed.
Do that for now and see if thats all you need.
You can make your clone turn 5000 rpm witht he governer and these simple cheap mods and it will be reliable still burn pump gas and you can spend the rest of your money on front brakes.
Your the guy with the 165 right?
The money you save could buy you a rear wheel assembly right now from the classified section ( roller Baja Warrior thread ).
Going faster is great, Stopping faster is highly under rated.
Also watch and learn from Tom at ARC...
http://www.ustream.tv/channel/karttrax
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Whats 165??
i was just trying to stick with the head i had now just want the gov off or if anyone can offer me a 14cc head i would buy it for the right price can i use all the same head parts from my head now.
so this is what i have in my basket just need to click buy
rod flywheel
flat top piston and rings
140 e tube
18lb springs
air filter and adapter
#90 jet
i have an AGK single stage header already and i have the gov removed and the stock piston and rod out. ready to put this all back together i cant really spend more than that right now
i was just trying to stick with the head i had now just want the gov off or if anyone can offer me a 14cc head i would buy it for the right price can i use all the same head parts from my head now.
so this is what i have in my basket just need to click buy
rod flywheel
flat top piston and rings
140 e tube
18lb springs
air filter and adapter
#90 jet
i have an AGK single stage header already and i have the gov removed and the stock piston and rod out. ready to put this all back together i cant really spend more than that right now
A 165 is the generic name for the Mini Baja 165 / Baja warrior / Baja Carbon or what ever else they are calling the 165 right now.
As for your parts.
Just buy them, look for an 18cc head later...
I have a mild 14cc but its no good to you with the flat top unless want to buy gas at the airport.
Stock valves and retainers will let you down sooner or later and you shoudl be running lash caps on the Intake. I would replace all these with OWM Honda parts at the least but in my area OEM honda valves are as much as the Stainless SI racing valves.
Your choice.....
Oh did you order a wrist pin?
http://www.oldminibikes.com/forum/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=12714&title=100-9065&cat=500
This is why.....
As for your parts.
Just buy them, look for an 18cc head later...
I have a mild 14cc but its no good to you with the flat top unless want to buy gas at the airport.
Stock valves and retainers will let you down sooner or later and you shoudl be running lash caps on the Intake. I would replace all these with OWM Honda parts at the least but in my area OEM honda valves are as much as the Stainless SI racing valves.
Your choice.....
Oh did you order a wrist pin?
http://www.oldminibikes.com/forum/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=12714&title=100-9065&cat=500
This is why.....
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havent ordered it yet
what wrist pin should i get
but no i dont have a 165 haha this is my roller
im not trying to make the fastest mini but just want the gove removed basically.
so i just want something reliable and somewhat fast
i was thinkning and couldnt i just run rod flywheel header and after market airfilter and new maine jet with gov removal and be fine
what wrist pin should i get
but no i dont have a 165 haha this is my roller
im not trying to make the fastest mini but just want the gove removed basically.
so i just want something reliable and somewhat fast
i was thinkning and couldnt i just run rod flywheel header and after market airfilter and new maine jet with gov removal and be fine
That's a good kit but you still have stock valves, dish piston and weak wrist pin.
Valves fail more often from float than anything else and this combo won't float but your still left with the dish piston and weak clone wrist pin and low compression.
If you drop a valve you have wasted the engine. If your running at 8.8:1 compression ( often less with a clone ) you have a lazy engine that may loose low end torque with that cam as well as burn more gas.
You need to make sure that header will fit and I don't think you need that mufler. I also feel the header is short. That kit was intended to make a class of equal engines. You don't care about equal do you?
I'm still not sure what it is your looking for, I think your not sure as well.
Do more research and keep asking questions. Better if you can find someone who has done something like what you want and ask him if you can take it for a ride.
Valves fail more often from float than anything else and this combo won't float but your still left with the dish piston and weak clone wrist pin and low compression.
If you drop a valve you have wasted the engine. If your running at 8.8:1 compression ( often less with a clone ) you have a lazy engine that may loose low end torque with that cam as well as burn more gas.
You need to make sure that header will fit and I don't think you need that mufler. I also feel the header is short. That kit was intended to make a class of equal engines. You don't care about equal do you?
I'm still not sure what it is your looking for, I think your not sure as well.
Do more research and keep asking questions. Better if you can find someone who has done something like what you want and ask him if you can take it for a ride.