best setup for a fast cruising bike

#21
Do you really want to 'cruise' at 8,000 rpms? Think it through a bit more. Sounds like a drag motor instead of a cruising motor. Take Gumpit's idea of changing gear ratios. It may be slow off the line but it will move right along once the rpms increase.
 
#22
Do you really want to 'cruise' at 8,000 rpms? Think it through a bit more. Sounds like a drag motor instead of a cruising motor. Take Gumpit's idea of changing gear ratios. It may be slow off the line but it will move right along once the rpms increase.
My cruiser is fast an I only have like 200 into it
22 mikuni
Pipe
14th clutch
62th sprocket and it hits 60 with a 230lb ride
 
#23
Do you really want to 'cruise' at 8,000 rpms? Think it through a bit more. Sounds like a drag motor instead of a cruising motor. Take Gumpit's idea of changing gear ratios. It may be slow off the line but it will move right along once the rpms increase.

well im not going the cheep rout and yes i will most be doing alot of cruising around but i will race once in a blue moon so thats also a reason why u want it to have alot of rpms.
 
#24
well im not going the cheep rout and yes i will most be doing alot of cruising around but i will race once in a blue moon so thats also a reason why u want it to have alot of rpms.
Hey, something you can take to the bank:
  • Any engine built for cruising needs to be reliable.
  • Any engine built for racing will be unreliable, expensive, and require constant attention.
  • Any attempt to mix these two requirements results in a compromise in both requirements.

High RPM equals faster death of motor, more money, more work.

Ask these OHV guys how to build torque, not RPM and take their recommendations on drive systems; clutch vs. TAV, etc.
 
#28
"old style" pred
18cc head 27mm intake, 25mm exhaust, milled .065, ported
26 lb springs
champ rockers (1.0:1) i think would be best ( somone correct me if im not )
lash caps
moly push rods, ss valves
billet rod (+.20 or .40) (somone correct on which one)
billet flywheel
22mm mikuni - with airfilter, (might need jetting adjustments)
mamba crank (not jr)
flat top piston (idk whats the best one to use)
f&b header
also a fuel pump?

i think that would be a good setup to use, somone let me know what piston works with that
 
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#31
"old style" pred
18cc head 27mm intake, 25mm exhaust, milled .065, ported
26 lb springs
champ rockers (1.0:1) i think would be best ( somone correct me if im not )
lash caps
moly push rods, ss valves
billet rod (+.20 or .40) (somone correct on which one)
billet flywheel
22mm mikuni - with airfilter, (might need jetting adjustments)
mamba crank (not jr)
flat top piston (idk whats the best one to use)
f&b header
also a fuel pump?

i think that would be a good setup to use, somone let me know what piston works with that
i like how thats setup, lets see what people have to say about that one
 
#32
Hold on here, for a long time you were doing the same thing when you kept pushing an ungoverned engine with a stock rod & flywheel.
I'll push the engines as much as I want and it won't blow cause I know how to ride and don't push my motors, AND HE IS JUST WASTING OUR TIME YOU CAN TELL HIM A GREAT SETUP AND HE WONT DO THAT SETUP HE WILL TRY TO CHANGE IT
 
#33
I'll push the engines as much as I want and it won't blow cause I know how to ride and don't push my motors, AND HE IS JUST WASTING OUR TIME YOU CAN TELL HIM A GREAT SETUP AND HE WONT DO THAT SETUP HE WILL TRY TO CHANGE IT
Alright, you really need to stop. Both of you. Neither of you really want to listen to a thing that people who really, actually build engines for serious work who have been at minibike & kart racing for years & years have to say. The amount of knowledge I have absolutely pales in comparison to what some of the people here have been telling you.

As for you, you're free to grenade an engine as you like. Don't come whining to any of us when you blow a flywheel & cause some serious injury. You're the one that wants to do a ton of work & build a go-fast engine without even taking the first two steps of what SHOULD be done. Unless you have a tach, you really don't even know what engine speeds you're turning, you can't just "guess" & pray for the better.

If you can't build a good, solid, SAFE powerplant yourself, you can't exactly go around telling others how to build theirs when yours is a grenade.

Rabban, get a billet rod & flywheel. Then, start figuring out exactly what you want to do with the bike. Tons of people have given you good, sound advice so far. Build a reliable cruiser with a little extra pep, forget about building a balls-out race motor you can cruise around on for cheap.




I swear, it's just like the folks on gun forums & in gun stores.
 
#34
Alright, you really need to stop. Both of you. Neither of you really want to listen to a thing that people who really, actually build engines for serious work who have been at minibike & kart racing for years & years have to say. The amount of knowledge I have absolutely pales in comparison to what some of the people here have been telling you.

As for you, you're free to grenade an engine as you like. Don't come whining to any of us when you blow a flywheel & cause some serious injury. You're the one that wants to do a ton of work & build a go-fast engine without even taking the first two steps of what SHOULD be done. Unless you have a tach, you really don't even know what engine speeds you're turning, you can't just "guess" & pray for the better.

If you can't build a good, solid, SAFE powerplant yourself, you can't exactly go around telling others how to build theirs when yours is a grenade.

Rabban, get a billet rod & flywheel. Then, start figuring out exactly what you want to do with the bike. Tons of people have given you good, sound advice so far. Build a reliable cruiser with a little extra pep, forget about building a balls-out race motor you can cruise around on for cheap.




I swear, it's just like the folks on gun forums & in gun stores.

i understand what ur saying and i agree. but look at the setup evan0000 put, how would that work, because that sounds like it would be solid.
 
#36
Alright, you really need to stop. Both of you. Neither of you really want to listen to a thing that people who really, actually build engines for serious work who have been at minibike & kart racing for years & years have to say. The amount of knowledge I have absolutely pales in comparison to what some of the people here have been telling you.

As for you, you're free to grenade an engine as you like. Don't come whining to any of us when you blow a flywheel & cause some serious injury. You're the one that wants to do a ton of work & build a go-fast engine without even taking the first two steps of what SHOULD be done. Unless you have a tach, you really don't even know what engine speeds you're turning, you can't just "guess" & pray for the better.

If you can't build a good, solid, SAFE powerplant yourself, you can't exactly go around telling others how to build theirs when yours is a grenade.

Rabban, get a billet rod & flywheel. Then, start figuring out exactly what you want to do with the bike. Tons of people have given you good, sound advice so far. Build a reliable cruiser with a little extra pep, forget about building a balls-out race motor you can cruise around on for cheap.




I swear, it's just like the folks on gun forums & in gun stores.
Dude I'm sorry but your a retard I told the kid to get a billet flywheel and rod check his messages, my cruiser is a grenade not my race bike,
 
#37
Here is the set-up you need.

Trail Horse with 16" tires. 48 or smaller sprocket on rear. 10 -14 tooth driver sprocket. TAV on level 1 modded 212.

Less than $300.00 in the build! This set-up does 40 MPH!!!!!

Done!!

 
#38
About Time

Alright, you really need to stop. Both of you. Neither of you really want to listen to a thing that people who really, actually build engines for serious work who have been at minibike & kart racing for years & years have to say. The amount of knowledge I have absolutely pales in comparison to what some of the people here have been telling you.

As for you, you're free to grenade an engine as you like. Don't come whining to any of us when you blow a flywheel & cause some serious injury. You're the one that wants to do a ton of work & build a go-fast engine without even taking the first two steps of what SHOULD be done. Unless you have a tach, you really don't even know what engine speeds you're turning, you can't just "guess" & pray for the better.

If you can't build a good, solid, SAFE powerplant yourself, you can't exactly go around telling others how to build theirs when yours is a grenade.

Rabban, get a billet rod & flywheel. Then, start figuring out exactly what you want to do with the bike. Tons of people have given you good, sound advice so far. Build a reliable cruiser with a little extra pep, forget about building a balls-out race motor you can cruise around on for cheap.




I swear, it's just like the folks on gun forums & in gun stores.
^^^ X 1 Million^^^ Great Answer...... I can't do That Anymore
By The Way how to you like the new Ct. Gun Laws??
and I build (ENGINES) for a living.....Dave Zombieheadservice Div. WP:shrug::eek:ut:
 
#39
Dude my bike goes over 50mph and I still have gov. Do some research if you want a cruiser you don't not need to remove gov. No rod flywheel or any of that stuff. All you need is the right gear set up I got 53-12 8 inch tire over 50 no problem. If you want a racing bike that does over 65 mph then yes you will need every part in your motor replaced.
 
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