briggs flywheel grenade

R

RARECRX

New Member
#21
#21
My rule is , Better safe than sorry.. Even if you have never "seen" it happen..

I do however have a Question I've been scared to ask thinking it was a "stupid" one... If there is mild concern Why is there not a "Scattershield" on the market for them? Or is there? I have never heard anyone talk about one or even make a makeshift one. Is it hard to do, or just better to buy a pricey billet flywheel?
 
M

metal man

New Member
#23
#23
RARECRX said:
My rule is , Better safe than sorry.. Even if you have never "seen" it happen..

I do however have a Question I've been scared to ask thinking it was a "stupid" one... If there is mild concern Why is there not a "Scattershield" on the market for them? Or is there? I have never heard anyone talk about one or even make a makeshift one. Is it hard to do, or just better to buy a pricey billet flywheel?
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the reason there is no scatter shield probably comes from the fact it dont happen every often . its not as common as say a drag car clutch blowing up . so lots of people think its never happend to me yet so its fine . but all it takes is once and your done .
just like running steel keys in the flywheel , lots of people have done it for years and years never had a problem . well one day something locks up the motor and kaboom bits go flying .
 
maddcarson

maddcarson

Active Member
#24
#24
im running a steel key on my 5hp. its got a billet wheel with a steel hub. still smart to run a steel key?

Oh and about the flywheels. If you dont have the money for a flywheel. just weld thick thick steel plates on the inside or outside of the fanshroud and run that within a safe RPm, till you can get a billet flywheel
 
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badtec

badtec

Banned
#25
#25
mmisterbungl said:
You should all my posts if you want to sit here and accuse me of something ridiculous like this, Scott. Just because I show a little vigilance when looking out for safety is no reason to quote me.
Don't quote me boy cuz I ain't said shit.
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I should "all your posts". What is that?:wink:
 
M

metal man

New Member
#27
#27
maddcarson when it comes to the billet stuff i dont know if running a steel key is good or bad . i dont think it would be a good idea tho , if the motor locks up the steel key can put alot of force on the key way . in the cast wheels the aluminum key will shear taking all the force off the crank and wheel . the weak point if you will , but if you put in a steel key now the crank or the wheel is the weak point .
maybe email the company and ask them , they would have a better answer then i would on there product .
 
texasfabguy

texasfabguy

New Member
#30
#30
mr.modified said:
I think we've covered everything... And no serious disagreements... :thumbsup:
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well no really,we ended up with a whole thread of opinions again but not real facts.
I'm sure there is a shop with a dyno that has run a few motors that has test results.you would think that catastrophic failures would be more published:shrug:
 
B

Bluethunder3320

New Member
#31
#31
i know how strict the OldMiniBikes forums are on safety and getting billet parts....

coming from my experience, youll be fine. the clone that ive got on my warrior has been revved the crap out of it..... its been to hell.... and nothing broke.... i never even torqued the bolts on the connecting rod!!! (feels good! :wink:)

first point of failure is the connecting rod on almost every engine.

HOWEVER, with stock valve springs, i dont even think a billet rod may be needed..
revving past the governor will only increase internal wear slightly.

a flywheel wont explode unless it is unbalanced or cracked, or revved insanely high. if you rev it to 10,000 RPM you might want a more balanced flywheel or something stronger (billet...)

with stock valve train and everything else stock.. stock parts will hold up fine. valves will float to keep your engine going dangerously high.


some of you guys are gonna call BS on me. you can try.
 
clondakart

clondakart

New Member
#32
#32
i dont want to be the oddball out but what is the downside to running these factory heavy flywheels?? are they just that unbalanced or what? if you lapped it in to the crank shaft why would it "grenade"? The reason I ask is on "big" dirt tracks (3/8 mile or bigger) teams run heavier all around rotating assemblies to keep the centrifugal force on the crank to keep the rpms up (vs quick acceleration). Personally I've never seen a balanced engine give up because of damper (flywheel) failure (usually lack of spring compression, timing, or bearing failure). Like I said, I don't want to be the odd man out; but what is the big deal with running a heavier rotating assembly (especially if I'm running a high banked, wide open track)??

Curt
 
mmisterbungl

mmisterbungl

New Member
#35
#35
texasfabguy said:
I noticed that they said the flywheels were modified,I can see how removing metal can weaken a flywheel.Is it just me or were they all clone motors?
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no what they meant was that the engine was "slightly modified". The way it was worded though may lead one to think that they meant the flywheel was.

Read like this....

Flywheel failure around 6500 rpm; slightly modified; stock flywheel..
 
clondakart

clondakart

New Member
#36
#36
mmisterbungl said:
Maybe becuase you are new to these engines.

http://www.oldminibikes.com/forum/h...nor-your-engine-OldMiniBikes-please-read.html
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Good read. I wonder if it is because they are just manufactured cheaply? It looks as if it split from the middle out (indicating and out of balance problem with the flywheel and causing it to split at the focal point). I'll take my stock one to work and have the machine shop do a balance check to see how balanced the stock ones are. Thanks for the info!

Curt
 
texasfabguy

texasfabguy

New Member
#37
#37
mmisterbungl said:
no what they meant was that the engine was "slightly modified". The way it was worded though may lead one to think that they meant the flywheel was.

Read like this....

Flywheel failure around 6500 rpm; slightly modified; stock flywheel..
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see my interpretation was different,maybe because it looked cut down to me too.
 
Strigoi

Strigoi

#38
#38
spending $160 on a rod and flywheel is worth the piece of mind.

if you can't afford the "safety" items, you shouldn't be modding the engine anyways. if that couple hundred dollars is really pushing it for your budget/bank account, maybe it's time to save up some more money or get a better job.
 
Phantom

Phantom

New Member
#39
#39
Strigoi said:
spending $160 on a rod and flywheel is worth the piece of mind.

if you can't afford the "safety" items, you shouldn't be modding the engine anyways. if that couple hundred dollars is really pushing it for your budget/bank account, maybe it's time to save up some more money or get a better job.
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Ouch, straight up he's right buddy if you don't want to lose something you gonna miss, you better billet up that engine. And remember SHAKE N' BAKE!!.
 
texasfabguy

texasfabguy

New Member
#40
#40
Strigoi said:
spending $160 on a rod and flywheel is worth the piece of mind.

if you can't afford the "safety" items, you shouldn't be modding the engine anyways. if that couple hundred dollars is really pushing it for your budget/bank account, maybe it's time to save up some more money or get a better job.
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belittling is a sign of weakness.I was looking for scientific facts,you fell short.:rolleyes:
 
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