Briggs Raptor alcohol to gas conversion question
- Thread starter Daniel Coop
- Start date
- Tags alcohol conversion gas question raptor
Here is a photo a of what I meant by "oil your balls." Apparently, once again my post didn't meet the high expectations of the OldMiniBikes experts. And for the third time, my point wasn't how to properly oil your balls, since God knows there are umpteen self-aggrandizing build threads on this web site filled with detailed information such as how to use an oil can and oil these systems.
No, my point was that high RPM engines tend to shed the oil quicker than governed engines, so you will need to keep an eye on this. Now I have said it three times, but fully expect some expert to once again chime in and say something completely obvious. :clap:
Was that sarcastic enough Eric? I mean great, you got Pete to do yet another passive/aggressive OldMiniBikes post, complete with sanding a precision piece of metal. Damn this place wears on me. I keep assuming everyone else just wants to help people, and keep forgetting that ego boosting and taking digs at on line enemies are the main goals here.
Daniel, When you lubricate the shaft, oil will invariably leak into the pawl area, since nothing separates them. So the dry balls comment is moot. Even though a lot of people say "mute." Oil does get into the balls, and as they gum up, it will be manifest by the pawls taking longer (more rope) to engage. Not the squeal.
Here is a thread from five years ago.
Photo courtesy of Metal Man.
No, my point was that high RPM engines tend to shed the oil quicker than governed engines, so you will need to keep an eye on this. Now I have said it three times, but fully expect some expert to once again chime in and say something completely obvious. :clap:
Was that sarcastic enough Eric? I mean great, you got Pete to do yet another passive/aggressive OldMiniBikes post, complete with sanding a precision piece of metal. Damn this place wears on me. I keep assuming everyone else just wants to help people, and keep forgetting that ego boosting and taking digs at on line enemies are the main goals here.
Daniel, When you lubricate the shaft, oil will invariably leak into the pawl area, since nothing separates them. So the dry balls comment is moot. Even though a lot of people say "mute." Oil does get into the balls, and as they gum up, it will be manifest by the pawls taking longer (more rope) to engage. Not the squeal.
Here is a thread from five years ago.
Photo courtesy of Metal Man.
There hasn't been a final HP attempt pull yet unfortunately. During break-in on the Dyno this morning Dan (@Childish Concepts Racing) ran into 2 unexpected problems. First being that at 2300RPM, the old school recoil let out a crazy screech and killed the engine. He thought he might have blown it up for a second. The second issue was with the Mukini running extremely rich at any higher RPM and wouldn't Idle for shit. He was worried that the 15° angle on the engine Dyno mount might be playing hell with the Mukini so he swapped it out for a clone carburetor to try to isolate the problem to the Mukini. With the clone carburetor, it would idle fine but when he tried to increase RPM it would hit a wall at 5,000RPM @ a disappointing 8HP and he noticed quite a bit of smoke coming from the exhaust. So suspecting ring wash from the rich carburetor he pulled the plug and performed a leak down test and found a 40% leak down. He pulled the head off to find excessive oil in the combustion chamber... Upon further teardown and inspection, he confirmed his fear and found large gaps in the 2nd and oil rings on the piston. Damn...Did not go as planned. Being the honest engine builder and business man he is, he's ordered a new set of rings and we will be switching to a later model cup style recoil starter. He has vowed to get it right for me before sending it back to me. Our goal is at least 12HP and around 7,000RPM. This leads me to my next dilemma. Now that he's in there again, I am debating a cam swap to a Dyno Cams 94ss cheater cam but have some reservations and concern about starting it after that. I ride my bikes places, and need to be able to restart the engine after shutting it down and don't want to injure myself in the process. I'm damn near 40 now and have spinal issues. My question is does anyone have this cam, and how difficult can it be to start? Any suggestions on the carb issue? Dan is new to the Mukini's, because he squeezes max HP out of modified stock carbs on clones and has found them unnecessary and they just don't use them in karting. Could the shape of our intake be an issue? More questions than answers at this point.
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(Apologies in advance) Here's what I'll tell you---if you've got spinal issues and you're not 40 yet, why take a risk on a hotter cam that may jerk your arm off and rupture a disk or worse? Being the proud owner of a 5" vertical "tramp" stamp, two rods, 4 screws and assorted titanium nuts (after 3 surgeries for two vertebra), I can tell you that I would not interested in adding any more risk factors for a horse or two on the dyno. Just riding the bike puts your spine at risk. Accordingly, I am careful as sh*t when I'm riding around.