Burning out drive side jackshaft bearing on Trisport RTS-5. Help?
Gumpit is talking about welding a washer on instead of the split collars. I think that is a bad idea and will give you trouble in the future.
I think your plan sounds like a good one. Make sure the housing is clean when you take it to the machine shop. That will save you some $$$. I'd offer to do it at a discount, but shipping would likely kill the savings. If your housing is round (it appears to be) They should be able to chuck it up in the lathe and make quick work of it.
I think your plan sounds like a good one. Make sure the housing is clean when you take it to the machine shop. That will save you some $$$. I'd offer to do it at a discount, but shipping would likely kill the savings. If your housing is round (it appears to be) They should be able to chuck it up in the lathe and make quick work of it.
Absolutely Gumpit. I've never had to do it and don't want to. Luckily I was able to pull the trailer right up to where I blew it out the other day. I asked my daughter to go with me on her trike just in case something happened. Well it did of course and I took her trike back to the house to get the Bronco and trailer. I fought the extra grip style two piece collars that provide more clamping force because they are a little bigger. We'll see how it goes.
I just ordered the bronze bearings sleeves to repair the rear diff. I have 1/2 inch of free space in which to put the two lock collars. The lock collars are 1/2 inch each. I'm short half an inch. I just realized that I can't simply turn down the two halves of the diff on each side because of the stepped down half shafts. That would cause the shaft to go into the housing by that amount and be loose and able to go back and forth. If I did do that when I put the lock collars on which are 1/2 inch wide they would keep the shaft from going in and out but only about one quarter inch would be secured to the 1 inch portion of the shafts. This of course would give half or less of the available clamping force. What if I had the machine shop simply cut me an adapter ring for that quarter inch on each side? If they turned down the diff shaft outputs by 1/4 inch and created that quarter inch ring then I could put lock collars on each side which would clampdown on the 1 inch shaft and the adapter. I cannot think of a better option than that given the situation of being 1/2 inch short. The only other options are cutting new halfshafts (costly), spread the mounting plates which would throw off the angle of the flange bearings, or to move the flanges outward with a spacer between the flanges and the mounting plate which I don't think is a good idea either. Your thoughts?
The machine shop took a little longer than expected but all the parts are back and I assembled the shafts and diff halves last night. They fit nice and snug now with no end play. The shafts now fit the bore of the diff properly without any slop. The band brake drums were turned so there is a nice even surface as well since they had high lips on the outside that prevented the band from fully engaging the surface of the drum. I hope that really helps with braking ability. Time is tight but I may have the rear installed by the weekend.