Carburetor and Governor Springs
- Thread starter SIMPLEARKANSAN
- Start date
- Tags carburetor governor springs
I think you'll need a linkage between the two parts in the bottom pic. I had a stock 2.8 for about 5 minutes. When I bought the bike, there was no linkage. I use a heavy paperclip and made a linkage there. I guess a spring might work. I'm not sure, I ended up buying a predator for the bike. That 2.8 really was more trouble than it was worth.
I think you are missing 2 parts: speed regulation spring
DB30R-263 Baja OEM Speed Regulation Spring
and governor rod
DB30R-264 Baja OEM Governor Rod
Both parts available from OldMiniBikes
The speed regulation spring goes between throttle linkage and the governor arm at the bottom of the governor arm. The governor rod goes between the carb and the governor arm at the top of the governor arm.
Hope this helps. :shrug:
DB30R-263 Baja OEM Speed Regulation Spring
and governor rod
DB30R-264 Baja OEM Governor Rod
Both parts available from OldMiniBikes
The speed regulation spring goes between throttle linkage and the governor arm at the bottom of the governor arm. The governor rod goes between the carb and the governor arm at the top of the governor arm.
Hope this helps. :shrug:
Yes, there is another spring, probably good idea to get it too. Just thought I would give you something to go on 1st, wait for more ?'s later.
To get the engine to idle properly, the speed regulation spring needs to push the carb closed against the idle adjustment stop. When you give it throttle, it straightens out and pulls the governor arm that opens the carb butterfly.
When the throttle is closed/ off, the speed regulation spring, if properly installed, will be bent because it's too long and will push the governor arm away and close the carb butterfly. To keep the speed regulation spring installed between the throttle linkage and governor arm, it needs a 90 degree bend at the end of the hook or it will move out of position. Tricky to explain, wish I could explain better. :shrug:
Good luck. I have really had a lot of fun with mine, adjusting them to run better. After tweaking them for over 2 years, I am still finding little adjustments, mine pretty much scream lol's. :thumbsup:
To get the engine to idle properly, the speed regulation spring needs to push the carb closed against the idle adjustment stop. When you give it throttle, it straightens out and pulls the governor arm that opens the carb butterfly.
When the throttle is closed/ off, the speed regulation spring, if properly installed, will be bent because it's too long and will push the governor arm away and close the carb butterfly. To keep the speed regulation spring installed between the throttle linkage and governor arm, it needs a 90 degree bend at the end of the hook or it will move out of position. Tricky to explain, wish I could explain better. :shrug:
Good luck. I have really had a lot of fun with mine, adjusting them to run better. After tweaking them for over 2 years, I am still finding little adjustments, mine pretty much scream lol's. :thumbsup:
Sorry, can't tell much from your pics. :shrug:
Make sure the throttle is not binding, your throttle control rod looks like it could be binding. Look at the pic of the one you decided not to buy and then look at the one you made. Yours has a 180 degree bend, the OEM has a 90 degree bend.
Do you have the throttle return spring hooked up so the throttle will close? It's the long spring that is anchored to the wire muffler guard and attaches to the throttle hand control. Make sure the hand throttle control is not binding, the nut may be too tight.
Good luck.
Make sure the throttle is not binding, your throttle control rod looks like it could be binding. Look at the pic of the one you decided not to buy and then look at the one you made. Yours has a 180 degree bend, the OEM has a 90 degree bend.
Do you have the throttle return spring hooked up so the throttle will close? It's the long spring that is anchored to the wire muffler guard and attaches to the throttle hand control. Make sure the hand throttle control is not binding, the nut may be too tight.
Good luck.
The governor arm that I made freely moves and doesn't appear to have any binding. I have the long spring attached to the far right fork and then to the muffler cage. It's almost as if the governor has been disabled. I'm wondering if the previous owner removed the governor from the inside of the engine? He had the butterfly held shut with a spring up top and no springs were even attached at the bottom. One of my earlier pics shows how he had it rigged with the two springs on the butterfly.
Yes, appears the governor may be removed or not working. When the engine rev's too high, the governor arm should close the carb butterfly by moving to the left (looking at the back of the engine). I noticed the spring in your 1st pics, pulling the carb butterfly closed.
You can probably run it OK without the governor. Just don't free rev the engine with the rear wheel off the ground. Do you still have the stock gearing 11 tooth clutch, 70 tooth rear sprocket? If so, you will never over rev it, unless you are going down a steep hill lol's or the chain comes off.
I've got one set-up now with stock gearing, and a shortened clutch spring (removed maybe 4 coils). The carb is re-jetted to run richer, muffler is drilled out, and head cc's a little smaller. Runs surprisingly well, about like stock 97cc with 77 or 78 tooth rear sprocket. I haven't checked it with a tach, but sounds like it is not making 5000 rpms, like it would with lower gearing.
You can probably run it OK without the governor. Just don't free rev the engine with the rear wheel off the ground. Do you still have the stock gearing 11 tooth clutch, 70 tooth rear sprocket? If so, you will never over rev it, unless you are going down a steep hill lol's or the chain comes off.
I've got one set-up now with stock gearing, and a shortened clutch spring (removed maybe 4 coils). The carb is re-jetted to run richer, muffler is drilled out, and head cc's a little smaller. Runs surprisingly well, about like stock 97cc with 77 or 78 tooth rear sprocket. I haven't checked it with a tach, but sounds like it is not making 5000 rpms, like it would with lower gearing.
CD, great picture That is exactly how I have my springs on the lower portion. From what I can see your buttlerfly is closed with that set up. Mine is wide open. If you could post a pic of the upper linkage that would be great. If it's the same, then I'm wondering if my governor has been modified from the inside. I read that when you set the governor arm, you turn the clockwise as far as you can, and then attach the governor arm. Can't remember how you orient the arm. Do you rotate it as far clockwise also or leave at midline?
Are you familiar with how a governor looks inside 5hp Briggs Flathead? I only pulled the side cover on one 97cc, don't still have it, but I recall it looking just like governor on 5hp Briggs Flathead.
Might be time to pull the side cover and see what you have?
Or try a test. Disengage the governor arm from the carb, set the idle high enough so it will idle with the butterfly in the closed postion, and start the engine. With the engine running and holding the top of the governor arm, rev the engine some to feel if the governor arm pulls away from the carb. If it's not pulling it's not working. Probably doesn't matter what position it's in.
Thinking about it, that may be a way to disable the governor without pulling the side cover, Loosen the governor arm where it attaches to the governor shaft, turn the shaft counterclockwise, and tighten the governor arm back to the shaft. Maybe that's what was done to your engine?
If it's working, then maybe need to reset the position of the governor arm relative to governor arm shaft. I have never done this, so probably need to do some testing for what works. If you think about it, if the governor arm is turned too far clockwise, you can reset it a little counterclockwise or make the governor control rod a little shorter.
Good luck. I will post another pic soon, maybe tomorrow.
Might be time to pull the side cover and see what you have?
Or try a test. Disengage the governor arm from the carb, set the idle high enough so it will idle with the butterfly in the closed postion, and start the engine. With the engine running and holding the top of the governor arm, rev the engine some to feel if the governor arm pulls away from the carb. If it's not pulling it's not working. Probably doesn't matter what position it's in.
Thinking about it, that may be a way to disable the governor without pulling the side cover, Loosen the governor arm where it attaches to the governor shaft, turn the shaft counterclockwise, and tighten the governor arm back to the shaft. Maybe that's what was done to your engine?
If it's working, then maybe need to reset the position of the governor arm relative to governor arm shaft. I have never done this, so probably need to do some testing for what works. If you think about it, if the governor arm is turned too far clockwise, you can reset it a little counterclockwise or make the governor control rod a little shorter.
Good luck. I will post another pic soon, maybe tomorrow.
The butterfly in that pic is closed. You can't see it. The choke is off, and that is what you are seeing. The throttle doo-hickey is closed. If you look at the carb, it is resting against the idle screw. I have an old 2.8 in the garage, and it was missing stuff when I got it. I made the rod going from the top of the throttle arm to the throttle doo-hickey. I'll send it to you if you want it. Might be faster to just bend one up. I'll see if I can go out and snap a pic of it for you.