Chrome plating

#2
It's hard to accurately answer your question, but here's my two cents worth: I do get a discount via a car club, but from the price list, those are 3 times what I pay. These guys cater to the Harley crowd, and that automatically brings prices up. I can get an axle end with nut done for $13. No reason to chrome an entire axle, since it would need to be ground back down to fit the bearings anyway.

Prep will save you money, but it's hard to say how much. My chromer does a way better job repairing cracks in tins than I do. This time around (chrome goes next week) I am removing all of the rust with muratic acid, and sanding and smoothing everything I can to try and reduce manhours the chromer spends on prep.

So yes, prep yourself if time isn't an issue, and definitely shop around, and stay away from anyone who posts standard Harley Davidson prices for mini bikes. If you mail stuff for chroming, do a packing list and tag, or mark individual items. If it's delicate, pack accordingly to avoid damage.
 
#5
Here's one I was planning on using up here in New England for my fork bolt and sprocket. I think most of these shops cater to the motorcycle guys. Not that it's a bad thing but it can be expensive. They've got a price list too but it goes back to 2009. I guess we'll see next week when I get down to talk with them.http://www.chabys.com/index.html
 

Itype2slo

Well-Known Member
#7
When I have stuff done I have it done by a local polisher, and he does the prep and polishing but he subs out the chrome to a plating company. I once cut him out and went to the plating company direct to save a few bucks. The end product looked like somebody chromed a dead cat. I think its better to pay for the prep & polish and not cut corners.
 
#8
When I have stuff done I have it done by a local polisher, and he does the prep and polishing but he subs out the chrome to a plating company. I once cut him out and went to the plating company direct to save a few bucks. The end product looked like somebody chromed a dead cat. I think its better to pay for the prep & polish and not cut corners.
Yes !! I've read about that, Especially from the plating houses. They seem to want to do all the prep work from start to finish, I'm thinking it mainly because they want to insure #1 Quality and guarantee the workmanship and #2 all the base materials (substrates) welding/silver solder etc are compatible with their tanks.... Just a thought :shrug:
 
#9
Yes !! I've read about that, Especially from the plating houses. They seem to want to do all the prep work from start to finish, I'm thinking it mainly because they want to insure #1 Quality and guarantee the workmanship and #2 all the base materials (substrates) welding/silver solder etc are compatible with their tanks.... Just a thought :shrug:
When you send the chrome in, stipulate they can do what they need to do to get the job done. Yeah, you pay for it. But the other day, I saw a lot of very large old hotrod pieces returned to a guy because he didn't want to pay for the additional prep work....bumpers, etc. They didn't get past the copper stage, which I thought looked cool anyway. :wink:
 

JTG

Active Member
#10
I take a group picture of all of the items being chromed and give the chromer a copy. If there is something in the group he won't chrome he will cross it off the picture and give the part back. My first chromer was notorious for loosing small parts like the brake activator on my Go Kart Greenhorn (not replaceable). The picture saved my bikes life.

My first chromer was expensive, lost parts and took weeks to get the job done. My new chromer is a very large industrial chromer who charges me their minimum charge to do all of my pieces. Everything I give them is glass beaded first - I don't think they like that.
 
#11
When you send the chrome in, stipulate they can do what they need to do to get the job done. Yeah, you pay for it. But the other day, I saw a lot of very large old hotrod pieces returned to a guy because he didn't want to pay for the additional prep work....bumpers, etc. They didn't get past the copper stage, which I thought looked cool anyway. :wink:
:thumbsup: Excellent advice ..Will do !!
 
#12
paulhew,
Fact of life:Chrome plating is expensive, however,you can do a LOT better than the 2 price lists posted in the previous replies!:eek:ut:
Shop around, however, go and look at their shop (and work) and talk to them in person. Disregard phone quotes as really and truly they need to see the pieces, as costs will vary (possibly significantly) based on the condition (i.e., corrosion and pitting) of your pieces, as extra work $$$ will be involved. Have THEM do all of the prep work as well. Ideally, you want a small "mom and pop" type of shop. Where are you located? (never understood members not posting their location:shrug:) Post your location in your avatar and you will likely have local members provide you with referrals to where they get plating done.
Michael
 
#13
My Father was a plater for many years and did work in all types of plating even gold for the aircraft industry. he always said when the buffer said it was good then it was worth doing it's all about the prep. If a shop does bad plating then it is usually the buffer is just lazy and has no standards
Steve :scooter:
 
#14
Has anyone prepped there own parts prior to chrome ?, or have experience dealing with chrome platers and pricing.

I have a lot of parts for rechroming and want to cut costs to a minimum.

These guys have some pricing info. I know nothing about them but gives you an idea. The Plating House: Custom Chrome Plating

Paul
Paul, I just received a shipment of shock absorber parts that I had sent out for chroming before Christmas. One thing you should be aware of is that there are more than one type of chrome plating. My guy does two types. The first type is "custom chrome" and the second type is "show chrome" Custom chrome is where you take your parts in and they clean them up a bit and chrome them. The chrome looks good but any defects, nicks, or blemishes will still be there after the chrome plating is finished. The second type is "show chrome". In this process they fix, weld, repair, fill in, sand, smooth, and buff the old parts until they are as smooth as glass and then they do the chrome plating. Of course this second type is more expensive. In both cases however, they use the same three steps for the plating. That is: plate the part with a coating of copper; followed by a coating of nickle, followed by a thin coat of chromium. When you hear them talk about triple chrome plated, that's what they're talking about. It's not three layers of chrome. Most minibike parts were not show chrome plated because of the extra labor and expense. There is no doubt that show chrome looks great but it so shiny and smooth that in most cases it looks out of place on a minibike. Looking at the original part will give you a good idea of the type of process they used. As far as cost: The 40 pieces that I just had done cost me $720.00. I could probably find someone cheaper but my guy does every step himself and he's fast. I could have had my parts done in less than 5 days if I needed them. Hope this gives you something to consider. Ogy
 
#15
Excellent info guys, This is the stuff im looking for !, :thumbsup:

Ogy, Like you said, The chrome on my mini bike parts looks very poor from the factory, I saw a chaingaurd on one bike (ebay) that looked way to good ! (outa place) the chrome on my chaingaurd has a rough finish, (not corroded).
Im in no rush but will start investigating shops around here (Toronto Canada), I would ship it out to a recommended shop but its just to risky, I'm restoring 2 identical bikes that need rechroming on chaingaurds, fenders, handlebars, and exhaust.
I'll try and stick with a ma and pa shop like Michael mentioned, and do as much as I can to remove dents and weld cracks, :thumbsup:
 
#16
What Ogy said, all true. My chromer only does show quality. Anything less is not an option since they have a name to protect amongst the hot rod crowd. This is accomplished at the polishing and prep stations, and it's all about time.

Today (timely post) I specified which parts didn't need a lot of attention, (underneath fenders, back side of sprocket) and which parts did. I hope that cuts the cost some. My last bill for 13 items was 700 and that was at a decent discount. But it was show quality, not that I required that.

If going through a small shop, don't be afraid to ask for the "cash" price. Just saying.
 
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