Coleman CT 200u EX 2nd Test Ride

#1
Well the snow is gone so I decided to take my new Coleman for it's second test ride to check out my add-on front and back mud flaps. The fenders on these bikes are much too small and throw slop all over your engine. The mud flaps I made worked really great so if you don't want to destroy your engine and wiring it is well worth the effort and time. I did experience trouble with my centrifugal clutch not disengaging which shortened my riding session because of trouble stopping the bike. I think lube oil from my drive chain may have got on the clutch so please give me a lesson on what I can spray on the clutch to clean it with out destroying the clutch. I briefly checked the carb. linkage and don't see anything wrong so I'm thinking it must be the clutch.

Thanks
Mike
 

SAS289

Well-Known Member
#4
Both front and back need work if you run through mud often. The back fender needs extended on both sides.

I hit a mud patch last year and gassed it hard. My son was laughing his ass off at all the mud on my back. :smile:
 
#6
Both front and back need work if you run through mud often. The back fender needs extended on both sides.

I hit a mud patch last year and gassed it hard. My son was laughing his ass off at all the mud on my back. :smile:
I have to laugh because your absolutely right about that back fender needing help on the back because I noticed the same thing. I don't go thru mud holes if I can help it but sometimes there is no other way. Mud destroys you bike and who wants to Clean all the time. LOL
 
#8
I recently bought an EX, besides the mud flaps, have you encountered any other issues? View attachment 103722
Yes the clutch is sticking on, and the kick stand really stinks because it is too long. I'm going to take it off and chop it with my chop saw. That will make it about a 1/8 inch shorter before I weld it back together, so maybe it will lean a little more like a real bike. Some of their design leave a little to be desired. The tires give it a bumpy ride. I'm going to decrease the pressure to 8 lbs. and try it before I change the tires. There is a lot of knowledge in this site with a lot of experienced Modifiers. Good Luck and happy Scooting
 
#9
Oh another thing is there was NO dielectric grease on the light plug in connector attached to the frame behind the front fender and I found some bolts needed to be tightened.
 
#10
Don't know how they would do on trails but Kenda and SunF make street version tires. I went with the SunF's, and man it made a heck of a difference in how the bike rides. Other thing you may want to look at is dumping the clutch for a TAV, bike is so much smoother, pulls hard and goes faster.
coleman taz 2.jpg
 

SAS289

Well-Known Member
#11
Yes the clutch is sticking on, and the kick stand really stinks because it is too long. I'm going to take it off and chop it with my chop saw. That will make it about a 1/8 inch shorter before I weld it back together, so maybe it will lean a little more like a real bike. Some of their design leave a little to be desired. The tires give it a bumpy ride. I'm going to decrease the pressure to 8 lbs. and try it before I change the tires. There is a lot of knowledge in this site with a lot of experienced Modifiers. Good Luck and happy Scooting
I'm not sure about the stock tires. I have a slow leak on the sidewall of my rear tire. Very little riding time on the bike. I think it may have happened during a low speed full throttle over an exposed tree root. The front took the bump ok, but it did bounce the back pretty good.
 
#12
I'm not sure about the stock tires. I have a slow leak on the sidewall of my rear tire. Very little riding time on the bike. I think it may have happened during a low speed full throttle over an exposed tree root. The front took the bump ok, but it did bounce the back pretty good.
Try FIX-A-FLAT
 
#13
Don't know how they would do on trails but Kenda and SunF make street version tires. I went with the SunF's, and man it made a heck of a difference in how the bike rides. Other thing you may want to look at is dumping the clutch for a TAV, bike is so much smoother, pulls hard and goes faster.
View attachment 103748
Thanks for the Tips. I already have a SunF for the back just haven't had time to get it on but you are getting me GOING. LOL Mine is a little different than yours but I have to take time to figure out how to post the pic. Thanks again.
 
Last edited:
#16
Like I posted elsewhere, it's now about the time those Christmas presents are found to have not worked out, and minis will be popping up on places like CraigsList and/or Facebook.
 
#18
Greetings.. easiest way to explain it is with a video..gl. https://youtu.be/coDFPhzCW2c
Well we removed,cleaned, deburred,greased, and reinstalled the clutch today and it did make a good differance but the bike still will not set still on it's own while idling. I'm thinking maybe the governor maybe holding it open a little. Anybody have links to these Hisun engines. I've googled it but can't seem to find good info on these engines.
 
#19
It appears your idle is set too high causing the clutch to engage.
- Back out the idle screw a half turn on the carb and see if your rpms drop. The black lever on the carb that controls the butterfly should be able to touch the idle screw. If its not touching then there is a problem with the throttle linkages keeping the butterfly open and increasing your idle speed. If it is touching the idle screw just back the screw out a little and your idle rpms should drop.

Stock engine CT200u EX's should be set to idle around 1750 rpm, +/- 150 rpms. If you are 500 rpms above that it will start to lock up.
 

MJL

Active Member
#20
Mine would not idle down properly either. The throttle wasn't even sitting on the idle screw, so I ended up unhooking the light spring that connects the throttle plate to the govenor arm. Seemed to fix it, but I do have to give it a little throttle to start sometimes. Though, the kids haven't quite gotten the knack of a LITTLE throttle and have sent the bike off riderless on several occasions...
 
Last edited:
Top