I bought a Coleman BT200 over the summer and have been loving it. Have replaced the chain and carburetor and oil after riding for awhile. Just recently I was riding around town and it felt like the engine seized and stopped running. It will run in choke, but when I switch it to fully run the engine just revs and the bike doesn’t move. When it first happened it made a pretty crunchy sound, so I’m assuming something broke but don’t know what!
Coleman RT200 not running
- Thread starter Juanr
- Start date
Internal damage generally keeps engines from running.
Check the oil.
Remove the chain cover and push the bike forward and backward, watching the chains.
Check your fuel level. Remove the little bolt (10mm) from the fuel bowl on the bottom of the carburetor. Does clean fuel come out? Not water or crusty muddy fuel? If you open and close the fuel cutoff valve, does it make work to cut off the flow, and turn it back on with that bolt removed?
Check the oil.
Remove the chain cover and push the bike forward and backward, watching the chains.
Check your fuel level. Remove the little bolt (10mm) from the fuel bowl on the bottom of the carburetor. Does clean fuel come out? Not water or crusty muddy fuel? If you open and close the fuel cutoff valve, does it make work to cut off the flow, and turn it back on with that bolt removed?
I second that. That's not just your opinion, that's indeed where you oil it. 2-3 drops of fresh motor oil for every 1-2 hours of use.
There's about 1mm of lateral play between the clutch drum and the bushing, enough for those drops of oil to work into the bushing where it's needed. Do not use an aerosol lube and do not get oil into the friction shoe area (the working innards) of the clutch, that's a no-no.
According to BMI Karts: Oil the bushing that is located in the sprocket at least every two (2) hours of driving time. You'll have to oil the clutch even more often if you have small children, riding in a small area, never going fast enough to engage the clutch all the way. The clutch continues to generate heat until it engages.
Keeping it oiled is not as big of a deal if you're actually riding your bike instead of letting it sit at idle for long periods of time, but of greater concern if you're goofing off with the clutch half engaged and/or with lots of slippage. I'd wager most new mini bikers have no idea how to service the clutch.
There's about 1mm of lateral play between the clutch drum and the bushing, enough for those drops of oil to work into the bushing where it's needed. Do not use an aerosol lube and do not get oil into the friction shoe area (the working innards) of the clutch, that's a no-no.
According to BMI Karts: Oil the bushing that is located in the sprocket at least every two (2) hours of driving time. You'll have to oil the clutch even more often if you have small children, riding in a small area, never going fast enough to engage the clutch all the way. The clutch continues to generate heat until it engages.
Keeping it oiled is not as big of a deal if you're actually riding your bike instead of letting it sit at idle for long periods of time, but of greater concern if you're goofing off with the clutch half engaged and/or with lots of slippage. I'd wager most new mini bikers have no idea how to service the clutch.
Ok so this worked like barely revving it, but as soon as I tried to start riding around it sounds like something is almost catching internally and the whole thing kinda like jumps. It feels like it’s just revving when I gas it. And it makes a bad sound I wish I could post a video of it because it will run for like 3 seconds and jump and have a really delayed response, but the idle is perfect so I’m thinking something is broken