Comet Clutches
- Thread starter ELT
- Start date
The 30 series offers a wider shifting range than the 20.
The 20 can handle big HP (over, say 10HP) much better than the 30.
The 30 is physically narrower than the 20.
And the shifting speed isn't really affected by the belt angle.
For a stock/stage 1 engine, get the OldMiniBikes clone 30 series.
For a racing setup, get a 20 and tune it.
The 20 can handle big HP (over, say 10HP) much better than the 30.
The 30 is physically narrower than the 20.
And the shifting speed isn't really affected by the belt angle.
For a stock/stage 1 engine, get the OldMiniBikes clone 30 series.
For a racing setup, get a 20 and tune it.
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Also, difference between the 20 and 30 is the driven pulley. MOST of the time......The 20 has the moving pulley face on the inside of the bike / jackshaft (same side of the Clutch fixed face). The 30 has the moving face on the outside (opposite side from the fixed face on the clutch),....( or another way to say it, the driven fixed face is on the same side as the clutch fixed face). The 30 makes custom installs a tiny bit easier to figure out.
A Rupp or a Speedway, and many of that era, need to have the 20 due to frame setup. Using a comet 20 driven on a Speedway requires some grinding for clearances.
The 30's are used a lot on the Comet Torque convert assemblies, like those on store bought go-carts.
Operation wise, about the same. But, cost wise, the 30's are usually cheaper and easier to find.
A Rupp or a Speedway, and many of that era, need to have the 20 due to frame setup. Using a comet 20 driven on a Speedway requires some grinding for clearances.
The 30's are used a lot on the Comet Torque convert assemblies, like those on store bought go-carts.
Operation wise, about the same. But, cost wise, the 30's are usually cheaper and easier to find.
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