Crank Machine Work

Yellowhand

Yellowhand

#1
#1
I have three tapered/oversize cranks I'll be turning down to 3/4" and milling 3/16" keyways...also boring/tapping 5/16" NF threads in the end to hold clutches on...

If you have any cranks you want turned/milled/tapped, mail them to me and I'll machine them all at the same time while I have the lathe and vert mill set up to do it...

The machine work is free, but I prefer to have your crank arrive in a USPS medium size flat rate box with exactly enough cash enclosed for me to send it back through USPS...

No UPS/Fed Ex/checks/MO's/...

PM me for address...
 
Yellowhand

Yellowhand

#2
#2
This Tecumseh crank arrived last night...

The straight section is currently .770 without a keyway, so that'll turn down to .750 nicely and get a milled 3/16" keyway that is 3/32" deep...

But, there is only 1.750" of straight shaft before the taper begins, so the owner needs to decide whether to leave the tapered end on the shaft, or cut it off, re-bore and tap the new end, and run a 3/4" long spacer for a clutch...

I can make a billet retainer specifically for this shaft that has a .750" OD extension w/ keyway on it...and that's what I recommend doing.
 
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george3

george3

Active Member
#3
#3
tipically the 1" part of the shaft sticks out about that much from the cover un-like the standard 3/4 style that 1" part sticks out 1/8" or so. It might not be like that on this crank but all that I have have seen were like that. Just have to get all the measurements on the standered crank and go from there.
 
Yellowhand

Yellowhand

#4
#4
george3 said:
tipically the 1" part of the shaft sticks out about that much from the cover un-like the standard 3/4 style that 1" part sticks out 1/8" or so. It might not be like that on this crank but all that I have have seen were like that. Just have to get all the measurements on the standered crank and go from there.
Click to expand...
The oil seal wear area is visible on the crank...there isn't any room to back cut into the seal area of the shaft...the .770 shaft area starts just outside the seal...this shaft isn't as long as you were hoping for.
 
james c

james c

Active Member
#5
#5
ive got one of those ebay 89 dollar blocks that is a tec 10 hp for a generator it looks just like the one you have there. no keyway and around 7/8" could you do mine also?
 
Yellowhand

Yellowhand

#8
#8
james c said:
ive got one of those ebay 89 dollar blocks that is a tec 10 hp for a generator it looks just like the one you have there. no keyway and around 7/8" could you do mine also?
Click to expand...
Did you buy it already?...Surplus Center has those engines complete w/ carb and exhaust for $134...I bought an 11hp in the OHV version...that's one of my three cranks to turn and key...

Yes, I can turn that crank to .750" and key and tap it...I did one of those two months ago and back cut towards the block also, to position the clutch closer to the block.
 
Yellowhand

Yellowhand

#12
#12
5 Horse Fan said:
Ok, here is what I got.
Click to expand...
Looks like it would turn down to a 5/8" shaft about 2" long, or a 3/4" shaft about an inch long...if you want to take it down to 5/8" and bore and tap a 1/4" retainer hole in the end, I can make a retainer with attached extension that's 5/16" long and you could put a standard 5/8" clutch on it...
 
Yellowhand

Yellowhand

#15
#15
...and if there isn't quite enough length to your crank after machining off the threads or taper, these retainer extensions made specifically to extend your crank to 2-5/16" really work well...

I've done them before...they're proven to work well...and now they come with a countersunk screw to perfectly align them with the shaft.
 
5

5 Horse Fan

New Member
#17
#17
blkscorpion80 said:
Thats the same crank that came out of my briggs i/c with the gear reduction on it.
Click to expand...

Yeah, They were valuable back when everyone was racing 5hp midgets.
I'm getting a delivery for an engine today and according to the part numbers, it will have this reduction crankshaft.

So now I have two, and it may be worth while to have them machined.:shrug:
 
blkscorpion80

blkscorpion80

Active Member
#18
#18
5 Horse Fan said:
Yeah, They were valuable back when everyone was racing 5hp midgets.
I'm getting a delivery for an engine today and according to the part numbers, it will have this reduction crankshaft.

So now I have two, and it may be worth while to have them machined.:shrug:
Click to expand...
Should I let yellowhand get the job done for me, or should I use thar other crank that I have? I'm having problems with it anyways. It looks like the reduction crank is beefier that the other crank, which means that I have to change the rod out and the bearings(I don't want to remove the piston and all). If I let YH help me out than I would be able to slide the crank back in and finally get her up and running. What should I do? I don't mind waiting for him to finish the job.
 
5

5 Horse Fan

New Member
#19
#19
blkscorpion80 said:
Should I let yellowhand get the job done for me, or should I use thar other crank that I have? I'm having problems with it anyways. It looks like the reduction crank is beefier that the other crank, which means that I have to change the rod out and the bearings(I don't want to remove the piston and all). If I let YH help me out than I would be able to slide the crank back in and finally get her up and running. What should I do? I don't mind waiting for him to finish the job.
Click to expand...
Yellowhand looks to have very good equipment and machining skills.
I say do it.:thumbsup:
 
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