Doodlebug frame stretch

#1
I am going to do a frame stretch and wondered for those who have cut into one, what is the tubing size? I assume 7/8' bud don't know id of tubing (have not cut it yet). I was gonna use solid rod inside as a slolig slug and pipe the same tubing to fill the gap. Anyone know the od and id?
 
#2
Sorry can't help on the sizes, but the plan with the solid bar will work fine.
Cut away and measure then order some piping - should be availble in the sizes you need
 
#3
I agree with Tank, cut and get it started. The OD is most likely 7/8, the ID will vary depending on wall thickness. I use 4 inch pieces of 3/4 tubing that I split down the middle to make my own roll pin style sleeves. This way you can easily open the sleeve or compress it for a tight fit. Good Luck and post some pics of the progress along the way! :thumbsup:
 
#6
I am going to do a frame stretch and wondered for those who have cut into one, what is the tubing size? I assume 7/8' bud don't know id of tubing (have not cut it yet). I was gonna use solid rod inside as a slolig slug and pipe the same tubing to fill the gap. Anyone know the od and id?
7/8 o.d. d.o.m. tubing and use 11/16 round cold rolled steel
mark
 

jays0n

New Member
#7
So I'm about to stretch one of my DB30 frames and I'm looking for tubing/round bar but not finding what I'm looking for. I found DOM tubing in 0.875 (7/8") with a 0.120" wall thickness, is that what I need? I haven't chopped it up yet so I'm not sure on the thickness. Also for the round bar I can't seem to find 11/16 (.6875") anywhere, closest I can find that is smaller is 0.625 or larger at 0.688 but I don't have a lathe to turn it down.

Perhaps I'm overthinking this as I often do but I would like to have all the materials in hand before chopping up the frame. Can anyone offer more detail on what I need?
 
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jays0n

New Member
#9
Maybe I'm just clueless but I can't make sense of this, can someone shed some light? I have to drive far to pick up the steel I need and would rather not do it twice if I can avoid it :) This is the first time I've stretched one of these and I would love to get it right the first time.

Outlawfabshop said to use 7/8" DOM tubing and 11/16" (0.875") round bar, which is 0.6875" in diameter.

7/8" x 0.120 DOM tubing has an ID of 0.635" (too small for 11/16" round bar to fit)

7/8" x 0.065 DOM tubing has an ID of 0.745" (too big for 11/16" round bar to fit)

Am I missing something here?
 
#11
I've heard that you should use tubing that is similar in wall thickness, but equal to the ID of the frame to slug it. The solid slug does not allow any sort of flex, but a smaller diameter pipe with the same wall will allow some. I'm no welder, so don't take what I say as correct, but it's something to look into. Also, I have a Menard's close by that sells some tubing. You may also be able to find somone local that has scrap laying around that will work. You probably need less than three feet, right? I have a fab shop that sells the scrap they don't use for 50 cents a pound. You might want to look into something like that.
 
#12
Check around and see what you can find in the way of old bicycle frames. Whenever I scrap one I keep the straight sections and make exhaust pipes from them and the seat post is a good way to join two pieces.
 

125ccCrazy

Well-Known Member
#13
easiest way to do a stretch is use two frames...you end up with only 4 weld joints instead of 8.... if you use sections of pipe for the stretch I'd suggest cutting the frame between the seat braces and an inch or two back from the front of the engine plate and not behind the engine plate so you don't end up with the engine so far forward you end up with an extremely long chain..
 
#15
So I think I have it sorted now. I found 7/8" x .083 DOM tubing on eBay and for the slug I found 11/16" OD DOM tubing. Should be here early next week.

This is going to be my wife's toy, 6" stretch cut between the seat brackets with the engine remaining right where it is to keep weight forward, welded on adjustable jackshaft for gearing options and to keep the chain length down, and the rear converted into a live axle trike. It's what she wants so like a good husband it's what she's going to get :) I'll start a build thread when I actually get started. I had shoulder surgery a week ago and I'm not quite ready to handle a grinder so it's sitting naked in my garage, ready to be chopped up :)
 
#16
That is what I did on mine. 7/8" by .083". I only did a 4" stretch, mostly to clear the TAV, and give me knee room from the handlebars. Only difference is I used ERW tube. BTW, DOM is ERW tube that has been run through a die and ball to even up the inside and outside diameters. It gets rid of the ridge on the inside of ERW tube, but same thing really.

One other thing, for slugs, I have cut a slot in 7/8" tube and squeezed it down in a vise to make slugs for 7/8" and 1"




My wife has been mentioning trike also. Might have to do something...
 
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