Ducar 212 vs Predator 212
- Thread starter FatBuddyCat
- Start date
something also to remember when the whole jug snaps off the block it's not always because it's a poor design. alot times it happens from metal expansion and human error can cause that problem. for example installing a thinner head gasket or longer rod or both. now the engine gets hot and bang...piston hits the head. for the guy with the boat motor it was probably combination of his mod's and the crank flexing under a load/water...just a guess?
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That's the overarching problem. I say this every time blown-up mud motors are mentioned: these engines were not intended to make their peak intermittent power rating continuously. Honda's manuals actually say that. That's at the stock power rating and RPM. Make twice the power and now twice as much heat has to be dissipated by the cooling system which in this case is the head and block. Making that much power usually involves a billet flywheel which intentionally moves less air than stock for less drag. Less cooling + more heat =.....
Many times it's simply from the side cover bolts coming loose under hard running. Racers typically upgrade the bolts and use solid dowels if not upgrade to a billet cover.
Many times it's simply from the side cover bolts coming loose under hard running. Racers typically upgrade the bolts and use solid dowels if not upgrade to a billet cover.
I was just thinking about the heat dissipation thing today while pressure washing. I just built a washer using a commercial pump that I can run at 2/3 to 3/4 throttle to run the engine easier. There is still a load but not as much RPM since I'm running it for hours at a time. Those boat motors must really be taking an abuse when you add in all the variables AND running balls out. OUCH!! This came out pretty nice, I've been holding onto the Annovi Reverberri pump for awhile waiting for a motor. My local HF just got 5 212s in yesterday so I bought a couple.
What about this one? http://www.studzracing.com/product-p/225shortblock.htm
Lol, that's a sexy beast! I was just chatting with a friend from OldMiniBikes.com about the Tillotson 225 block too. I think the proper head for these are more than the entire motor! PaulsKarts heads start at $299 and that's just something basic.
you can get more then enough power out of a stock 212 head that comes with 27/25 valves. correct porting and better valves....springs....etc.
don't drink the kool-aid and think 32/28 is the way to go. unless your building a drag bike and racing 1/8 mile and turning 9000 rpm's
and we talk about paulkarts in the pass. maybe he getting better? but for me i would stay away from his work.
https://www.oldminibikes.com/forum/index.php?threads/valve-seat-cutting.165169/
don't drink the kool-aid and think 32/28 is the way to go. unless your building a drag bike and racing 1/8 mile and turning 9000 rpm's
and we talk about paulkarts in the pass. maybe he getting better? but for me i would stay away from his work.
https://www.oldminibikes.com/forum/index.php?threads/valve-seat-cutting.165169/
These are my current motors. The gx160 is a 168f block, 168f crank, Honda qx2 163 cam, ut2 flat piston, 383 rod, pvl flywheel, Honda qx2 14cc head, 22# springs, billet intake, Ruixing 212 carb w/ 140 Emulsion, gx340 jet and a header. That thing cranks out some snap mid to top end. My Hisun and JiangDong 196 motors are both CS cams, 303 rods, pvls, 4 degree keys, 22# springs, Ruixing 212 carbs 140ETs/36 jets, billet intakes, long headers, Everest 14cc heads....basically twins. My 212 is stock internals, 8 degree advance and stage 1. I want to go further. Which would you start with?
