Free Air, like gas stations used to have

#1
With the "real" mini bike engines being an upright finned cylinder, why aren't more run with the breeze to cool them? Stationary or low-speed use isn't what we're doing, so it seems that losing the substantial parasitic drag would be a reasonable gain. Starting has to be addressed, but otherwise it should allow removal of shrouds, fins, and bulk.
Combined with a flat billet side cover, electric start and the flywheel smooth, I think I can get a Tec HM100 even narrower than most small block engines.
 
#2
With the "real" mini bike engines being an upright finned cylinder, why aren't more run with the breeze to cool them? Stationary or low-speed use isn't what we're doing, so it seems that losing the substantial parasitic drag would be a reasonable gain. Starting has to be addressed, but otherwise it should allow removal of shrouds, fins, and bulk.
Combined with a flat billet side cover, electric start and the flywheel smooth, I think I can get a Tec HM100 even narrower than most small block engines.
LOL, easy to say living in Flint, MI. My available Summer time free air supply is at best, a 30 MPH blast of arctic 125F give or take.

You do make a valid point, and there have been some folks slicing off flywheel fins, or trimming them. Me, I'll take all the cooling air I can get! :thumbsup:

Just thinking- having an electric start motor might be fine with an HM100, but keeping the recoil setup is pretty much a requirement for us with the BS 5 or Tec H and HS stuff. (external kart starters the exception, but beyond my needs)
 
#4
The reason those fins are there are for heat dissipation not cooling :doah:

Oh you can still get free air at a gas station all you have to do is ask :thumbsup:
 
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#5
The reason those fins are there are for heat dissipation not cooling :doah:

Oh you can still get free air at a gas station all you have to do is ask :thumbsup:
Flywheel fins seem to be aimed at forcing air through ducting, more than dissipating heat. Or,,, the enginerds that started making them outta plastic have some s'plainin to do.

Most of the self-serves up here don't even have the quarter-for-air machines any more :(
 
#7
Flywheel fins seem to be aimed at forcing air through ducting, more than dissipating heat. Or,,, the enginerds that started making them outta plastic have some s'plainin to do.

Most of the self-serves up here don't even have the quarter-for-air machines any more :(
I should have been more clear, I meant the fins on the head and cylinder not the fly wheel :thumbsup: And you are right not many have air any more but if they have a coin opp then all you have to do is ask for them to turn it on and they must if they are open :thumbsup:
 
#8
I should have been more clear, I meant the fins on the head and cylinder not the fly wheel :thumbsup: And you are right not many have air any more but if they have a coin opp then all you have to do is ask for them to turn it on and they must if they are open :thumbsup:
Yeah, I wouldn't cut them off head/jug. Just crazy, not dumb :)
Although, the drag/pull guys seem fine without fins, but they aren't at it for long.
I been eyeing a replacement for my 4" K341 block. It just pushes snow.
eburgblock_alum1650.jpg
 
#10
I took off all the cooling stuff on my clinton engine on my board track bike. but its cast iron. on an aluminum engine id just be worried about around the exhaust port gets the hottest. I bashed off all the flywheel fins and put a pot lid over it to cover the uglyness. wrap a rope around a cup for to start it. I would do it on an aluminum engine just not one I particularly care about.
 
#11
I took off all the cooling stuff on my clinton engine on my board track bike. but its cast iron. on an aluminum engine id just be worried about around the exhaust port gets the hottest. I bashed off all the flywheel fins and put a pot lid over it to cover the uglyness. wrap a rope around a cup for to start it. I would do it on an aluminum engine just not one I particularly care about.
With the better dissipation of aluminum, I think the bore and head should be fine. Maybe whip up a billet "porcupine" head?
I'll put a stainless sleeve and flange in the exhaust port and weld up a little of the bowl, maybe shoot some TBC in the ports and deck around the valves?
Guzzi "Bologna slicer" flywheels have always been interesting to me.
 

65ShelbyClone

Well-Known Member
#14
The engines are designed for airflow that is perpendicular to the direction of travel for most minibikes. They also don't have the fin density of engines designed to be cooled with ambient air. The shrouds generally direct a lot of forced cooling air around the exhaust port for obvious reasons too. Slanted engines like Hondas have really bad ambient airflow with the cylinder mostly behind the crankcase.
 
#15
The engines are designed for airflow that is perpendicular to the direction of travel for most minibikes. They also don't have the fin density of engines designed to be cooled with ambient air. The shrouds generally direct a lot of forced cooling air around the exhaust port for obvious reasons too. Slanted engines like Hondas have really bad ambient airflow with the cylinder mostly behind the crankcase.
LOL, good to see you here! :thumbsup:
 
#16
The engines are designed for airflow that is perpendicular to the direction of travel for most minibikes. They also don't have the fin density of engines designed to be cooled with ambient air. The shrouds generally direct a lot of forced cooling air around the exhaust port for obvious reasons too. Slanted engines like Hondas have really bad ambient airflow with the cylinder mostly behind the crankcase.
Thank you for your concern. While I agree, in part, I'm certain it'll work out fine for street cruising and the occasional drag.

I remember Freddie Spencer's bike burst in to flames when spilled fuel ran to the dead-air zone of the DOHC head, and my little SOHC 2v builds go 150-200hp/liter and live. A small scoop to help guide airflow to the exhaust port, should be plenty. Fin area per hp isn't great, but good oil and a TBC on the piston crown do wonders, in our testing. We had one kid that would melt the dip stick on hot race days, but got it sorted. Rear exhaust port on Yamaha Virago family lived for 2 decades in production, and them Hogley Ferguson things are a century in to the terrible idea of a rearward exhaust outlet.

I plan to make a billet head any way, and will add generous North-South finning. Exhaust port is getting some welding to fix the bowl (intake too), and there's room to slide a stainless header stub quite a ways in, reducing the heat transfer to the block.

And, there's always the option of turning it around and using a gearbox in place of jackshaft to get it turned the right way. Or sideways with a RAGB. I score a ton of them at recycling. These rascals aren't the space shuttle.
 
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