so i have a mb165 or mini baja with a 5.5 i biult this motor port and polished cylinder head and it screamms.. but i want more i am about to order a gx140 e tube size 40 mainjet the biggest one that OldMiniBikes warehouse has to offer 18lb springs and an adapter and air filter i already have a homade exaust and i was wondering how a 4 degree advanced timing key would help out the motor has stock flywheel and rod but i dont turn it over 5500 even tho i kno i still need the billet parts but cant afford and i have another problem the bearings in my jackshaft ar toast i was thinking about fremovint the jack shaft and fliping the clutch and putting the to chains together and i saw a vid on youtube and tha dude did this and his mini ran 50mph via his gps but i want to kno those mods and the strait chain with no jack shaft would it still have decent low end power and not take ten years to get my 230 pound butt goin thanks for your opinion:shrug:
HELP i need your opinion on some mods i am about to do
- Thread starter clonebuilder
- Start date
- Tags baja mini mods
What's size are the sprockets on the clutch and wheel. Really you should be ok. I'm not sure what my mini is but it kinda looks like the Azusa frame with the stock gc190 governer removed not sure on rpms it runs over 30mph and pulls wheelies! It has a 13t I think on the front and a 72t on the rear! But judging from the pictures I have seen if I were you I'd wait on the other stuff and save for that flywheel and rod! Good luck!
Oh by the way the top speed calculator in the engines and modifications section might help
Oh by the way the top speed calculator in the engines and modifications section might help
i think ill be ok to but i just wanted to get a little input im about to order the parts right now i would get a billet rod and flywill first but its just a beater it is like the baja warrior same style differnt colors but im sure no govener port and pilish head header k&n air filter and adapter 40 main jet gx140 e tube and 4 degree advance timing key this thhing should fly..hopfully
:grind::thumbsup:
:grind::thumbsup:
Do not run straight chain to the OEM rear sprocket, I have done it and can tell you with 100% confidence you will have no low end at all and will (not might, WILL) end up burning up the factory clutch.
I know it costs money but a TAV is the best way to go with these bikes, myself and a lot of others have done it and can tell you it is worth the $$
I know it costs money but a TAV is the best way to go with these bikes, myself and a lot of others have done it and can tell you it is worth the $$
I cant wait to run my Hawg-Ty (mb165 except with a springer front end) when she gets a new carb/gasket. I got it for $100 and got it running but it needs a new throttle grip. Im thinking of using an old bike brake lever for the throttle until I buy a new one 
imp:.
Anyways, If I were you I would just run the bike as it is and enjoy it before you blow it up! 18lb springs would bring up the rpm's, the main issue with engines blowing is over-revving on stock internals. You've already built the engine, keep it around for a while so you can build it up EVIL in the future.
imp:.Anyways, If I were you I would just run the bike as it is and enjoy it before you blow it up! 18lb springs would bring up the rpm's, the main issue with engines blowing is over-revving on stock internals. You've already built the engine, keep it around for a while so you can build it up EVIL in the future.
I cant wait to run my Hawg-Ty (mb165 except with a springer front end) when she gets a new carb/gasket. I got it for $100 and got it running but it needs a new throttle grip. Im thinking of using an old bike brake lever for the throttle until I buy a new one imp:.
imp:.