Help ID my Tech

#4
It's PROBABLY an H30 ... 3.0 horse power..

It's what is known as a (side pooper) as the exhaust dumps out the side..

It came off from a side walk edger.. The tiny little intake manifold is the clue on that one.. The diaphragm style carburetor, paper air filter, super small intake manifold, goes to the engine with the backwards gas tank.. Gas tank would have been on the backside of the motor directly above the carb and stuff..

It's one of the later motors, probably made in the 90's because of the way the recoil mounts to the shroud..

I don't think they ever MADE a 2.5 this late in the game, and 3.5 would typically have the larger intake manifold.. So I would venture to guess it's 3.0 horse power, mid late 90's..

You can take the recoil off, spin it around to a more convenient spot, then screw it back on.. May have to drill new holes for the screws, but it's a pretty simple process..

I'll sell ya a larger H35 intake manifold 10 bucks shipped to the door..
 
#5
More pictures!

It's PROBABLY an H30 ... 3.0 horse power..

It's what is known as a (side pooper) as the exhaust dumps out the side..

It came off from a side walk edger.. The tiny little intake manifold is the clue on that one.. The diaphragm style carburetor, paper air filter, super small intake manifold, goes to the engine with the backwards gas tank.. Gas tank would have been on the backside of the motor directly above the carb and stuff..

It's one of the later motors, probably made in the 90's because of the way the recoil mounts to the shroud..

I don't think they ever MADE a 2.5 this late in the game, and 3.5 would typically have the larger intake manifold.. So I would venture to guess it's 3.0 horse power, mid late 90's..

You can take the recoil off, spin it around to a more convenient spot, then screw it back on.. May have to drill new holes for the screws, but it's a pretty simple process..

I'll sell ya a larger H35 intake manifold 10 bucks shipped to the door..
Wow! you sure know your stuff! here are some more pictures. WITH OUT THE CARB ON.


This is the carburetor



Do you have an idea where i can order a kit for this one ? I believe the seal is broken causing it to leak gasoline when off. Thank you for all your input and help.
 
#6
Thats kinda how those things are.. The diaphragm is actuated by vacuum.. when the engine starts, vacuum sucks the diaphragm down, and it presses open a little TINY needle valve, which is the fuel float shutoff thing...

The diaphragm gets all dried up and hard and won't move like it should.. Or a tiny spec of something gets into the needle and seat and causes a leak.. They are kind of a nightmare.. That one looks to only have a main fuel metering screw too..

If you have the money, you may wanna just consider buying one of the 35 dollar aftermarket fully adjustable bowl carburetors..

rebuild kits are available at most small engine shops or sites..
 
#7
:anon.sml:
Thats kinda how those things are.. The diaphragm is actuated by vacuum.. when the engine starts, vacuum sucks the diaphragm down, and it presses open a little TINY needle valve, which is the fuel float shutoff thing...

The diaphragm gets all dried up and hard and won't move like it should.. Or a tiny spec of something gets into the needle and seat and causes a leak.. They are kind of a nightmare.. That one looks to only have a main fuel metering screw too..

If you have the money, you may wanna just consider buying one of the 35 dollar aftermarket fully adjustable bowl carburetors..

rebuild kits are available at most small engine shops or sites..
You have a link? for one of those?
 
#8
You have to get the RIGHT carburetor.. I went through a few pages before I found the rite one.. :doah:

First thing to look for is the adjustable fuel screws, one in the side, and one in the bottom of the carb..

Just about as important is the throttle attachment, and size of the carb.. 3 horse, 5 hours, has like a AA battery sized hole through the center of the carb..

To attach your carb to an H35 engine, and hook up and use the throttle system.. You have to have the right throttle shaft..

H20 - H35 and HS40 and HS50 carburetors all use the same throttle shaft... H80 and 100 8 and ten horse carbs use one that looks the same, but the whole carburetor is much bigger, and won't run on a 3 horse..

You want one that looks like this.. a throttle shaft with holes in the same locations as your carb has... and two fuel adjustment screws... main in the bottom, idle in the side...

Carburetor for Tecumseh 631921 632284 631070A Fits Many H25 H30 H35 Engines | eBay
 
#9
Thank you so much!

You have to get the RIGHT carburetor.. I went through a few pages before I found the rite one.. :doah:

First thing to look for is the adjustable fuel screws, one in the side, and one in the bottom of the carb..

Just about as important is the throttle attachment, and size of the carb.. 3 horse, 5 hours, has like a AA battery sized hole through the center of the carb..

To attach your carb to an H35 engine, and hook up and use the throttle system.. You have to have the right throttle shaft..

H20 - H35 and HS40 and HS50 carburetors all use the same throttle shaft... H80 and 100 8 and ten horse carbs use one that looks the same, but the whole carburetor is much bigger, and won't run on a 3 horse..

You want one that looks like this.. a throttle shaft with holes in the same locations as your carb has... and two fuel adjustment screws... main in the bottom, idle in the side...

Carburetor for Tecumseh 631921 632284 631070A Fits Many H25 H30 H35 Engines | eBay
I do appreciate your time and effort in helping me. I'm a total beginner hope you dont mind me asking you all these ?'s Would this help me rebuild that carb i've got on it? http://www.amazon.com/Stens-520-312-Carburetor-TECUMSEH-631893A/dp/B001OKFC3A
Or should I just tottaly get rid of it? Thank you in advance sir!
 
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#12
Yes, that rebuild kit should work for ya..

That carburetor should be fine.. I have ran several of them on slanted Rupp frames that have a more inclined angle than yours is sporting and never had a problem.. It's not technically a great idea to lean a carb over, but the way they are designed, the float stil operates as it should.. The bowl gasket is new so it shouldn't leak.. It should be fine..
 
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