Help me spend my Money!!! H60 Performance Build

delray

Well-Known Member
#22
yep, it won't hurt to check both out and you don't really need to have the cam and lifters in to check the spring height. ….

keep my avatar green light on.....
if you need my help.
 

delray

Well-Known Member
#24
ok, with the valve spring and retainer installed is about .960 you say. so you will need a spring that is close to that height. I believe there some springs out there for spring heights at .950 also got to remember you height may change little with the new retainers and valve job. so need to consider that too.
ole4 tried posting a spring height chart that might help with your project. I don't think that wet through?
either way a 26 pound single spring you will need for a 265-280 lift you say you have.
I still think the factory yellow spring might be something to look into. its only a single spring so I wouldn't think it's rated higher then 26 pounds?
even if it's rated little bit lower then 26 and it doesn't any other problems .for example coil bind. it should maybe work. hey it was made for that engine and it's not likely your going to float the valve at 5000rpm's. most web sites that sell springs don't always show all there springs and spring heights. so your probably will have to call them and ask.
 
#25
What crank are you using if you have a billet rod? I have 2 billet rods neither fit any of my cranks that aren't a motorsports crank.
 
#26
Thanks Delray. I am on the hunt for yellow striped springs. vwmopar, check out OND's post on his H50 Stroker build. I have a stock H60 crank that i will send out and have the journal machined down to fit the rod.
 
#28
Thanks Delray. I am on the hunt for yellow striped springs. vwmopar, check out OND's post on his H50 Stroker build. I have a stock H60 crank that i will send out and have the journal machined down to fit the rod.
Ok I was wondering about that. I have a couple H50/60s that I'd like to mildy build up. Was even thinking of using a billet raptor rod and bore the block to match an oversized raptor piston.
 
#29
Where can I pick up the factory Motorsports racing retainers? Also two questions on my side cover, How do you remove the shaft that the governor rides on? And is there another way to hold the side bearing in besides the two bolts that go through the cover?
The two bolts have to stay for the bearing side cover. The shaft should remove once you take the ring off (it'll drop out). It's in a brass sleeve that you can tap and insert a screw with sealer. I don't think you need retainers other than stock... you've got massive lifters and the stock springs are pretty stout. You're really going to be limited as to how fast this engine will spin...I think 5k will be about tops.
 
#30
Thanks Dr. Shop!! Working on getting Yellow stock springs, Don't even have a bike for this yet, planning on turning down the O.D. of the fly wheel and half of the fins to lighten it a little. 5k would be fine to start, and then mess with it from there! Just finished up a few new mods on this for my Daughter and two grand kids, they use it to get the mail and ride back from the bus stop. It will toss you on your head with the governor still on it!

thumbnail_IMG_20181230_160741667
by David Shupe, on Flickr
 
#32
Thanks Dr. Shop!! Working on getting Yellow stock springs, Don't even have a bike for this yet, planning on turning down the O.D. of the fly wheel and half of the fins to lighten it a little. 5k would be fine to start, and then mess with it from there! Just finished up a few new mods on this for my Daughter and two grand kids, they use it to get the mail and ride back from the bus stop. It will toss you on your head with the governor still on it!

thumbnail_IMG_20181230_160741667
by David Shupe, on Flickr
That turndown on the exhaust is hilarious!

EDIT: Oh crap that's just the fender!
 

delray

Well-Known Member
#34
Ok I was wondering about that. I have a couple H50/60s that I'd like to mildy build up. Was even thinking of using a billet raptor rod and bore the block to match an oversized raptor piston.
that could work. I too was thinking something like that too. that's why I was asking about the rod length earlier. briggs flathead has ton's of different length rods and piston sizes,pin bores ...etc... maybe with the right combo setup a guy could build a motor out of briggs parts. main thing, if there was a correct combo you would have to have the crank journal modified to the briggs dimensions so the rod end would fit correct.
 

delray

Well-Known Member
#35
planning on turning down the O.D. of the fly wheel and half of the fins to lighten it a little.
not sure how you plan on turning the OD down on the flywheel. looks like you would run into a balance problem. because of all the pre-drilled holes on the back side use to balance the flywheel correct.
for milling the fins down I would think you would be ok there. I personally would only mill down to the same height in the center part of the flywheel where it has been machine flat. that would still leave some small fins on the outside of the wheel to help push some air still. I also don't think you would need a lot of air being push on a minibike that is always moving for the most part. also think using the steel sleeve block would be better for the engine if indeed it wanted to run so slightly warmer over a aluminum bore engine. I wouldn't think it would even phase the steel sleeve.
 
#36
not sure how you plan on turning the OD down on the flywheel. looks like you would run into a balance problem. because of all the pre-drilled holes on the back side use to balance the flywheel correct.
There was a guy on here who posted some You Tube videos of doing exactly that. He machined the wheel down, after removing the magnets, changed the ignition, re-balanced it, used a plastic fan. I want to say he was from one of the Scandanavian countries. He posted a couple of videos. Very talented guy. I am sorry I am unable to find the posts here or the video on You tube. As a machinist, you would have enjoyed the videos a lot.
 

delray

Well-Known Member
#37
yes i do believe I remember the guy doing that to a big block flathead briggs. also was a guy here in the states that was making flywheel's for electric ignition and was bolting on plastic fins for air cooling. he never stated what type of fins he use on his billet flywheels, but if you look closely you can clearly see that they look to be briggs intek flywheel fins. this would be another option if a guy was building a electric ignition flathead Tecumseh. also looks like he use a adjustable coil bracket for the timing so that also leads to me you don't really need a Tecumseh hot coil if you can figure out what adjustable bracket and coil would work on a Tecumseh and this would allow you to adjust your timing to your needs. hot coil is only a fix advance timing from 20 to 30 roughly ......

 

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