Help Needed: My first Tec Flywheel mount

[Midyrman]

I am re-assembling my H35. I was not the one who disassembled the engine and while I believe I received all the parts sometimes things get misplaced. So, I am in need of help......again. Once I get past this step I will be much closer to addressing the cosmetics with paint etc.

First, in the picture, do I have all the parts to mount the flywheel? In addition to the flywheel and screen, I have the key, the cup, the large washer and the nut. Am I missing any parts?

Second, when assembling it looks like the shaft is tapered. Will I need to "help" the flywheel snug up by using a rubber mallet or will tightening the nut do the job by itself?

Third. Before doing anything I have tried to spin the nut onto the shaft by hand and have not had success. Should the nut spin easily by hand? The reason I ask is because while the threads on the shaft and the nut look fine, the nut stops turning onto the shaft about half way into the nut........so I can only spin the nut a couple of revolutions by hand before it stops. Is this typical or is something not right? Threads all look good and they are clean.

Fourth. Where does the large washer go?

Any other advise appreciated!! It's my first flywheel!

Thanks

Tom

 

[buckeye]

You appear to have everything you need.
I slide the flywheel on with the slot in it and the the slot on the crank.
Slide the flywheel on and insert your key.
The cup goes on first then your washer.
If I remember correctly, that washer has to go on correctly.
And which way I am not positive so, I will pass on suggesting how to correctly put the washer on.
Someone much smarter than I will be with you shortly.
Good luck.

 

[markus]

was that ignition assy marked with the block or did you just bolt it on? Looks like it would retard the timing in that position for an H35. The points cover shoud be straightened up at the flywheel hole so there is no rubbing, The dustcover/gasket is missing as well. thats not critical but it does help to keep the points area somewhat sealed up, not only for debris but with moisture to.

If the wire you have routed under the ignition is for the kill wire, make sure it has enough room to connect tot he plastic insulated lug on the front shroud if it is a 1970 or later engine. Also if it is a model that uses a engine mounted tank there should be a little clip on tab mounted at the rearmost area of the lowest head fin, that keeps the fuel line in place, if its not there you really have to make sure that the line cannot move or it will rub the flywheel, same goes for all the wireing, you need to make sure when your putting it together that all the wires are safely tucked away from the flywheel.

Far as the flywheel nut, it really should be a pretty easy thread all the way. might need to hit the threads with a chaser or thread file, they get dinged easy or dumb asses dont use flywheel knocker right, or at all :doah: Shoulder side of the nut goes to the inside and the belleville washer centers on the shoulder (and placed on there so it flattens as you tighten it)

 

[Midyrman]

Nothing was marked. Should the assembly be turned counterclockwise? I know from experience with old cars that I am probably over simplifying this.

I made sure the kill switch line is carefully tucked away.

I bought the key from OldMiniBikes. It is notched at one end. Does the notched end go in first to be closest to the block and the notch be face up or ?

Thanks.

Tom

 

[David wulf]

If nothing was marked then the motor will have to be timed , not an easy task and way above my pay grade . There is a thread in the tech section on timing these motors . It's by cap gun cowboy and very good , read it .

 

[JohnnyTillotson]

Nothing was marked. Should the assembly be turned counterclockwise? I know from experience with old cars that I am probably over simplifying this.

I made sure the kill switch line is carefully tucked away.

I bought the key from OldMiniBikes. It is notched at one end. Does the notched end go in first to be closest to the block and the notch be face up or ?

Thanks.

Tom

The key goes in notched end first, yes.

All you have to do is set the points gap at .020 and tighten the screw.

Then you need a dial indictor or SOMETHING to measure when the piston is at bottom top dead center (BTDC). For the H35 i believe it is .060. But look it up. Then when the piston is at this position you hook up a continuity light or multimeter and rotate the whole stator either way until right at the moment the light or buzzer goes off (or on depending on your meter) lock it down right there. This is making the ignition system fire that spark plug at the precise moment. Right at the exact moment the points open. Get a Tecumseh dial indictor if you can.

 

[markus]

The key goes in notched end first, yes.

All you have to do is set the points gap at .020 and tighten the screw.

Then you need a dial indictor or SOMETHING to measure when the piston is at bottom top dead center (BTDC). For the H35 i believe it is .060. But look it up. Then when the piston is at this position you hook up a continuity light or multimeter and rotate the whole stator either way until right at the moment the light or buzzer goes off (or on depending on your meter) lock it down right there. This is making the ignition system fire that spark plug at the precise moment. Right at the exact moment the points open. Get a Tecumseh dial indictor if you can.

"Before" top dead center :wink: with the head off you can rig up a standard dial indicator or even a machinist caliper in a pinch

 

[JohnnyTillotson]

"Before" top dead center :wink: with the head off you can rig up a standard dial indicator or even a machinist caliper in a pinch

Oops yes sorry... before.

I like to take the head off anyway. Then i mount the head back on but angled off to the side so it holds the dial indicator in the center of the piston.

 

[JohnnyTillotson]

By the way did anyone else see the dial indicator on ebay listed at like $350?? What the heck was that all about?

 

[capguncowboy]

By the way did anyone else see the dial indicator on ebay listed at like $350?? What the heck was that all about?

Haha, yeah I saw that. It was in a pretty fancy cardboard box though :laugh:

Sometimes, I think people assume what they have is better than all of the identical parts everyone else has. Did it sell yet? Maybe someone was hoping to overpay!