hub too long

[Family Dad]

bought a 6 inch 1 piece front wheel today, but the hub is too long. i need to cut 1 inch off each side. anyone ever do this? i cant get a saw in there, so i was thinking about using a dremel with a cutoff wheel, but i need to keep an even cut all the way around and that might be a bitch.

 

[Lilindian]

Have a machine shop do it for ya.No sense in ruining it,you,ll have to out and buy another

 

[jeep2003]

how far in past the lip of the wheel does it need to be? Dremel might be your only option

 

[Yellowhand]

A lathe would be best...

 

[Oldsalt]

This is how I see it: As it is necessary to install a spacer, on the axle, between the inner races of the two bearings, so that the snap ring on the bearing's outer race does not actually preload against the hub, there's no firm reason to have the tube perfectly cut on the ends. Sure, it would be nice, but I'm thinking nobody is going to get a set of feeler gauges and check the gap between the snap ring and the hub all the way around.

 

[125ccCrazy]

something to look at also is if the hub is the same size all the way through or if it's machined at the ends for the bearing.... I strongly suggest having it done on a lathe so it's true and sqaure so the bearings don't have a tendency to bind on the axle should they cock sideways..

 

[Family Dad]

i got the wheel for almost free and since i am poor i got to do this myself. havent had a chance to check the id all the way through, if it stays the same i am going to cut it. i need to cut it about a 1/4 inch in from the lip. i was thinking i could cut it off then set it up on a drill press and lower a flap disk to even it out. like Oldsalt says, dont gotta be perfect.

 

[jeep2003]

yup doesnt have to be perfect. I think id go at it with an angle grinder. First with the cut off wheel then even it out with with a regular grinding wheel. you might have to take the guard off to get a better angle on it. Of corse thats if you have an angle grinder.

 

[Family Dad]

its done. i cut it with the dremel. you can hardly tell it was cut. after i got all the old grease out, i found that one of the bearings was destoyed and stuck down in the grease. it also messed up the hub where the bearing was supposed to be. so when i cut an inch off the damage was gone. luckily the id is the same all the way thruogh the hub. all i need now is new bearings and a tire.

 

[Oldsalt]

its done. i cut it with the dremel. you can hardly tell it was cut. after i got all the old grease out, i found that one of the bearings was destoyed and stuck down in the grease. it also messed up the hub where the bearing was supposed to be. so when i cut an inch off the damage was gone. luckily the id is the same all the way thruogh the hub. all i need now is new bearings and a tire.

I'm getting the impression from your post that there was no spacer between the two bearings to prevent side loading when the axle nuts were tightened? I'm betting that's what destroyed the bearing you found in the grease.

 

[Family Dad]

you would be correct. i have had other wheels without spacers. what i do in that situation is use a nylock nut and only tighten enough to get side play out. seems to work ok.

 

[Oldsalt]

you would be correct. i have had other wheels without spacers. what i do in that situation is use a nylock nut and only tighten enough to get side play out. seems to work ok.

The long tube that houses the flex shaft on almost all weed eaters is perfectly sized for wheel beartng spacers. Fits right over the outside of a 5/8" axle bolt. The junk yards are full of them. I understand that bicycle handle bars are also useable. A tubing cutter will cut them square at the ends. Cheaper than buying nylock nuts!

 

[Family Dad]

did not know that. thanks for the info.