Idle Issue: Stock 6.5 Clone Engine (brand new). NEED HELP!

#1
Need help in getting my 6.5 clone engine to idle properly. Whenever I start it up (cold engine) it runs fine for a few seconds with the choke in "closed" position. However, after a minute or so, the engine suddenly dies out. I just purchased this engine last week from Harbor Freight and was under the impression that it should fire up smoothly. Anyone else have any issues with their stock (unmodified) greyhound/lifan 6.5 clone engine?

Watch Video
 
Last edited:
#2
ok.

first things first. the throttle is sticking open like you said. slightly loosen the 10mm nut on top of the throttle linkage arm. that will let it move freely. they come tight from the factory, so you can move the arm to desired throttle position, and it will stay there. remember, these motors are for things like lawnmowers, pressure washers, water pumps, etc. they did not make them for mini bikes, we adapted them for mini bikes.

second. the idle issue. turn the choke on, "closed" and start the engine. once the engine starts, turn choke off "open". once it idles, turn the idle screw in a bit to see if it idles. that may take care of it. the stock clone engine does not like to start with the choke in the "open" position.

you may also want to check the yellow wires in the front of the motor. those are the low oil sensor wires. if they are touching ground, or are close to ground, they will shut the motor off

without seeing what you have going on underneath the air filter, its hard to tell what is really going on.
 
#3
I already tried loosening the 10mm nut that holds down the throttle arm. It make no difference in terms of allowing the arm to return back freely.

Tomorrow, I will be receiving my K&N angled air filter, adapter, header, 140 emulsion tube, and #90 main jet. I would like the engine to break-in correctly, but I'm wondering if adding these parts now will affect it in any way?

I also need to install the axles and front-wheel, but that isn't my main concern at this point. I would like to get this engine idling before taking it out for a spin around the neighborhood.

It almost seems as if the engine is starving for fuel. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
#4
in all due honesty, i would not worry about "breaking" in the engine. its a cheapo clone motor. run it.

if you already backed off the 10mm nut, your linkage may be dragging on the stock air filter housing. seen that happen a couple times.

put on your aftermarket parts, see what happens. your throttle cable sticking anywhere? if so, try checking at the throttle itself up on the bars. i have seen a few stick there.

the engine may be starving for fuel in the stock setting. once you put the #90 jet in there with the filter, adapter, and header, that will take care of that problem.
 
#5
Pull off the air filter cover so we can see your set-up. Post a pic. People here can talk you through it if they can see it. Also your grip may be too tight. Mine stuck for a while until it "broke" in and is still not perfect.
Ditch the stock spark plug and buy a NGK BP6ES right away. I had the same problem and put the new plug in yesterday, unbelievable (well, actually it is believable considering the source of these engines/plugs) difference. It took me taking the carb apart a few times to get it working ok. These things are cheap and need a little love before they are ready to rock. B
 
#6
There's a good chance your throttle is sticking because the set screw in the throttle cable stop is touching the bottom of the lower part of the air cleaner box, if you're getting the aftermarket air cleaner you won't have to worry about modifying the stock box....to avoid a sticking throttle while riding you mini I wouldn't ride it until you get that corrected.
 
#7
I've watched your vid and it seems like your engine is starving for fuel, turn the fuel valve off and remove the fuel drain screw from the fuel bowl. Turn the fuel valve back on once all the fuel has drained from the fuel bowl, see if you have a good flow of fuel coming out the drain hole....you may have a sticking fuel needle or crud in the fuel system.
 

jrzmac

Active Member
#8
seems like your throttle linkage is getting hung up in your fuel line. Maybe you should re-route the line? also when starting the engine, put the choke on. start it, then let it idle for a minute or so giving it gas once in a while. you sorta have to feel when to let the choke off. it'll start to run like crap. then you turn it off, and give it some gas once in a while for a minute or so til it warms up! then take it for a spin...
 
#9
Dropped the fuel bowl, and it's definitely getting gas. Removed spark plug and gapped it to .045" (was at .030".) Installed OldMiniBikes header, k&n air filter + adapter, gx140 emulsion tube, #90 main jet. I would start it up right now but it's 9:00pm. Might be a little noisy for the neighbors. Wish me luck! :laugh:
 
#10
Dropped the fuel bowl, and it's definitely getting gas. Removed spark plug and gapped it to .045" (was at .030".) Installed OldMiniBikes header, k&n air filter + adapter, gx140 emulsion tube, #90 main jet. I would start it up right now but it's 9:00pm. Might be a little noisy for the neighbors. Wish me luck! :laugh:
first get that piece of plastic on top of your air cleaner ,and throw it away,next is look at the linkage and see what is binding.
 
#11
Still can't get it to idle for more than a minute. It starts up after sitting overnight, then dies once I slowly open the choke. The spark plugs are wet from excess fuel and black. Is the stock LG spark plug that comes with the motor really that bad? It's getting a little annoying. :no:

New mods added = new look
 
#12
Still can't get it to idle for more than a minute. It starts up after sitting overnight, then dies once I slowly open the choke. The spark plugs are wet from excess fuel and black. Is the stock LG spark plug that comes with the motor really that bad? It's getting a little annoying. :no:

New mods added = new look
Your carb is more than likely defective,since you have already modded the motor they may not take it back,it you can not get the carb to work correctly ,you will have to replace it ,if it was me and I could not get it to run propertly I would go buy another motor and install it ,and put the other engine back together and repack in the box and try to get my money back.more than likley they will if it looks nice and tidy in the box,and not altered .:thumbsup:
 
#13
Whoa, whoa, whoa. I have had the same excact problem, it just takes some fiddlin' with. No need to take it back, it's chinese crap, odds are the next one you get will be worse.

Yes, get rid of the p.o.s. plug now. Throw it out, run over it with the lawnmower, put it in the garbage disposal...get the point?

I have taken apart my carb 4 times now and think I got it right. What mine was doing was SLOWLY filling up the float bowl. Not fast enough to sustain running for long. Make sure your petcock is flowing well enough. Mine is slow, dunno why (actually I do, chinese crap), but it is.

Look up a thread pertaining to drilling out your idle jet. It helps get more gas.

You just can't expect to pull a engine out of a box, mod it, and it run perfect. Ask me how I know...

All the folks here have helped me through these issues, they'll help you too, just gotta be patient. B
 
#15
I'll put money that bheezy is right about the plug. Humor us/yourself and go get another plug and try it. I just installed a new HF for a friend and the stock plug caused the same thing. Idled fine for about 20 seconds then died. Changed to another plug, problem solved.
 
#16
Installed a brand new NGK spark plug BP6ES. Made no difference whatsoever. Still stuck with a non working minibike.

Where is the air/fuel mixture screw on the carb located? I would like to adjust it, as I heard it supposedly makes a difference. I read somewhere on this forum about turning the screw all the way in until it stops, then backing it out 2 full turns.

Already tried disconnecting low oil sensor switch. No difference.
 
Last edited:
#17
I noticed that, "when it is running" (with choke on) it will idle for 5 seconds then the RPM's will speed up right before the engine shuts off. Almost sounds like its leaning out, hence the reason the RPM's increase prior to shutdown.
 
#18
pull the bowl off turn the gas on and make sure u r getting a good flow of fuel. if your not take the float and needle out and remove the sediment bowl under the fuel cutoff then take off the gas line. then blow in the hole where the needle was with compressed air.
 
Top