JB weld doesn't work very well to build intake manifold

GustoGuy

Well-Known Member
#1
After 3 years my intake manifold near the cylinder head started to crack and my bike was misfiring at higher rpms. Since the intake manifold is a combination of aluminum intake flanges and copper pipe I decided to buy solder that can be used to adhere aluminum to copper. The solder has a relatively low melting point of 381 degrees Farehite which should be more than good enough because no matter how much I ride the bike it never exceeds more than very warm to the touch right where it bolts up to the cylinder head. By the carburetor it is just slightly warm to the touch so the 381 degree melting point should work well. I then used my high temp JB weld as high temp filler to smooth out the soldered joints. Once dry I will sand it smooth and then use high temperature Brake caliper paint to make the manifold look nice.
 

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#2
This is why we call it a hobby. Projects never end.
Thank you for posting your results. The copper pipe and solder are an inspiration! I love it!
Never give up, never give in!
 

GustoGuy

Well-Known Member
#3
This is why we call it a hobby. Projects never end.
Thank you for posting your results. The copper pipe and solder are an inspiration! I love it!
Never give up, never give in!
Thanks. Being I have a resto-mod Rupp there are very few if any intake manifolds which will work. I decided to solder the joints together and it is the same solder that is used to attach copper to aluminum in air-conditioning units. A/C units can hit as much as 300 psi on the high side and this stuff is made to solder these joints so it should work well in a relatively low pressure intake manifold.
 

kayde

Well-Known Member
#4
Perhaps a carb brace for cheap insurance.

I bet it cracked when your bike was crashed and simply got worse.

Sometimes I warm up jb weld with a heat gun before mixing as it tends to flow in gaps and lay out smoother, learned that one cold winter day when my jb tubes were rock hard cold.
 
#11
After 3 years my intake manifold near the cylinder head started to crack and my bike was misfiring at higher rpms. Since the intake manifold is a combination of aluminum intake flanges and copper pipe I decided to buy solder that can be used to adhere aluminum to copper. The solder has a relatively low melting point of 381 degrees Farehite which should be more than good enough because no matter how much I ride the bike it never exceeds more than very warm to the touch right where it bolts up to the cylinder head. By the carburetor it is just slightly warm to the touch so the 381 degree melting point should work well. I then used my high temp JB weld as high temp filler to smooth out the soldered joints. Once dry I will sand it smooth and then use high temperature Brake caliper paint to make the manifold look nice.
Are you just trying to make a slanted intake? Or one a DELLORTO slides onto? @GustoGuy
 

GustoGuy

Well-Known Member
#14
I finally gave up on trying to Jerry rigging an intake manifold with JB weld and copper pipe. I brought my failed again intake manifold to a machine shop and I am having a custom intake manifold made. I only have a stick welder so I figured I farm this one out rather than spending big bucks on getting a gas MIG welder just to weld 1 part. JB weld and solder doesn't work too well and it certainly doesn't last on a hot vibration laden intake manifold
 

nightgrider

Well-Known Member
#16
I finally gave up on trying to Jerry rigging an intake manifold with JB weld and copper pipe. I brought my failed again intake manifold to a machine shop and I am having a custom intake manifold made. I only have a stick welder so I figured I farm this one out rather than spending big bucks on getting a gas MIG welder just to weld 1 part. JB weld and solder doesn't work too well and it certainly doesn't last on a hot vibration laden intake manifold
I should have listened to the advice of others and bought a gas capable machine. Flux core is good to learn on, but you get limited. I've been eyeballing this machine. Gets good reviews and is inexpensive. Lots of good reviews of it performing on YouTube. Good hobbyist multi-process machine. It doesn't say it in the ad, but it can weld aluminum, but it would be best to swap out the torch's liner to Teflon for better aluminum wire feeding.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CRR78HM...I8E4JQ5T&psc=1&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it
 
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#18
I should have listened to the advice of others and bought a gas capable machine. Flux core is good to learn on, but you get limited. I've been eyeballing this machine. Gets good reviews and is inexpensive. Lots of good reviews of it performing on YouTube. Good hobbyist multi-process machine. It doesn't say it in the ad, but it can weld aluminum, but it would be best to swap out the torch's liner to Teflon for better aluminum wire feeding.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CRR78HM...I8E4JQ5T&psc=1&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it
You might be better off saving a few more dollars and bump up to at least a 180 amp. I was looking for a new mig welder and after looking around, I narrowed my search down to these 2. I finally decided to buy the eastwood, they both have 3 year warranties.

The Primeweld comes with more goodies but I was able to purchase an extra 2 year extended warranty with the eastwood and I figured that since they are a more established company I might have less of a hassle with them if something does go wrong in the next 5 years.

Then again, I do reserve the right to be wrong. :D

The primeweld supposed to have a 10' stinger and an actual copper ground lead, compared to the 8' on the eastwood, but so far I'm pretty pleased with my choice.

https://primeweld.com/products/mig180-mig-welder-with-spool-gun

https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-mig-welder-180-amp.html
 

Thepaetsguy

Well-Known Member
#19
You might be better off saving a few more dollars and bump up to at least a 180 amp. I was looking for a new mig welder and after looking around, I narrowed my search down to these 2. I finally decided to buy the eastwood, they both have 3 year warranties.

The Primeweld comes with more goodies but I was able to purchase an extra 2 year extended warranty with the eastwood and I figured that since they are a more established company I might have less of a hassle with them if something does go wrong in the next 5 years.

Then again, I do reserve the right to be wrong. :D

The primeweld supposed to have a 10' stinger and an actual copper ground lead, compared to the 8' on the eastwood, but so far I'm pretty pleased with my choice.

https://primeweld.com/products/mig180-mig-welder-with-spool-gun

https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-mig-welder-180-amp.html
Duty cycle on my 110 Lincoln weldpak is terrible. Kicks the machine off every four minutes and takes four minutes to kick it back on.. Then weld four minutes and it kicks out again.

BUT if it didn’t have the duty cycle system i’d just run it till it burned out and I wouldn’t have a welder at all. So I can’t just go in there and delete the temperature switch.
 
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