Making newer Tecumseh HS blocks look old/correct

markus

Well-Known Member
#1
Currently I am wading through HS40's in the shop, I dug all the 4 HP's out and have been sorting parts, and currently doing the long blocks up. Everything I am building is between 1968-1971 currently. Biggest problem is that some of those engines I had collected over the years, while mostly complete, had block issues one way or another......typical of a mini bike engine.

the later model blocks will still cross with the early but there are some additions, mostly under the shrouding thankfully, but one thing that sticks out like a sore thumb is the drilled holes and machined face for an optional starter (this also applies to the first couple of years of the HS50 blocks)

2 late model electronic ignition blocks compared to and original 1969 block in the center:



Not a big deal, but its very noticeable especially on a remote tanked engine. 1968 didnt have the the mount cast in the block at all, so this does not apply to that first year (thankfully the one '68 I am building has a good bore :thumbsup: one snapped off bolt I gotta deal with though :crying:) The one on the far left in the pic above was from a snowblower engine and was threaded already but mid 70's-early 90's at least they dont normally seem to be tapped (like the one on the right) unless they did in fact have a starter kit on them. The late last version block I think are all tapped no matter what, but the casting finish is too rough to use for an early engine that your trying to make look correct and valve sizes got smaller usually.

I dont have the ability to weld aluminum, so I was trying to think of the best way to fill the hole that would not be too hard to do. What I am going to try is this, I went to the hardware store and bought a couple of aluminum 1/4-20 bolts. Going to run a tap through the blocks that need it, brush some JB on the threads of the bolts and crank them in, cut them off and finish the face up to a smooth finish like the early blocks are. If it shows visible still I may grind into the them a little and skim that face with JB and finish it off just like filling a dent in bodywork......"cave and pave" :laugh:



Hopefully when its all said and done the one on the right will look more like the one on the left!!!

 

1971_MB1A

Well-Known Member
#3
After you cut and smooth it spray a few coats of epoxy primer on that area and let it cure then soft pad block wet sand scuff it lightly with 400 and it should be fine.
 
#4
And there is that low temp aluminum welding rod that works with your propane torch. It's no good for structural repairs IMO, but it does do a great job of filling. I bet it would do a great job sealing the miniscule crack between the aluminum threads.
 
#5
Mark, In my previous life I was a body man and I can tell you that cave and pave does work in many instances, such as this when you have a good, solid base that won't flex. I've done similar with JB, and even repaired many steel mini bike wheels that were pin-holed with that stuff. I think it will work just fine.. that stuff sands down and finishes out real nice.... use a paint stick with 150 grit and it will flatten out nice...
 
#6
Hello, It will work. I have done the same on an H50 block. Only thing I did different was take the block in to work and had that chunk of raised material in the middle of the two holes milled off to use less filler.
Regards,
Joe
 

markus

Well-Known Member
#7
Just wanted to thank everyone for the comments/suggestions. Before I threaded in the bolts I ground the humps off and smoothed the face out with a roloc disc on a die grinder, thankfully it took off the material very easy. I cut the bolt close to flush with a cut off wheel after they were screwed in and took a set, and then smoothed it again with the roloc. Just a very faint circle remains. I will do the final prep when I am ready to paint. They are faint enough that High build would probably blend them out in one good shot on that lug, at least on these first 2 blocks I did. No pics due to the photobucket changes, but nothing fancy to see anyway, just wanted to update to say that was in fact a relatively easy thing to do with fairly common airtools :thumbsup:

I am going to see if they have those same bolts at the hardware in fine thread and the ones that I have to tap the holes maybe try that....might make the faint circle left after cutting/shaping even fainter
 
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