Max torque Clutch gets super hot

#1
So I just dropped in a 6.5 honda clone with a stage one kit from hotrod mini bikes, I upgraded to the max torque clutch and got a new chain. I put it all together, lined it up pretty good (I think) I rode it about 75 feet total and came back to the garage, the clutch is smoking hot, just as hot as the muffler... I am 225lbs, but I am thinking I have something incorrect. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you.
 
#3
I'll be honest, I'm not sure. It's a stock rear sprocket and a new max torque 3/4" Bore 12t 3100RPM Clutch Stall clutch,
 

JKautoFab

Active Member
#4
are you riding it hard or are you putting around? with a high stall clutch you cant putt around or you will slip it and burn it up
 
#5
i simply took it for a test run after assembling it all, so i would call it putting for sure. I was scared to put the throttle to it, as i wanted to make sure everything was set up right. The clutch came with a set screw and a key, my honda clone is keyed, so i have the key in, and i put the set screw in, but is it needed?
 
#6
i simply took it for a test run after assembling it all, so i would call it putting for sure. I was scared to put the throttle to it, as i wanted to make sure everything was set up right. The clutch came with a set screw and a key, my honda clone is keyed, so i have the key in, and i put the set screw in, but is it needed?
According to max torque, no it is not needed. Or no longer needed would be more accurate.

If you're putt-putting around at something less that full clutch engagement, (less than 1800 in your case) you are slipping it, and it's heating. They don't like that.
 
#7
ok, so i likely bought the wrong clutch for what i wanted then... lol. Next ill have to figure out why the motor wont idle unless the choke is applied slightly...lol
 
#8
ok, so i likely bought the wrong clutch for what i wanted then... lol. Next ill have to figure out why the motor wont idle unless the choke is applied slightly...lol
I didn't say that at all. Or at least I didn't mean to. I use the standard max torque with stock springs for a higher rev flathead that's putting out a bit of power.

You can change springs to increase clutch engagement RPM. IIRC, the original springs are the 1800 RPM and the lowest engagement speed.

Didn't see your post on the 3100 RPM. I bet you were just pussy footing around, testing, and that will always cause the clutches to get hot. They like everything or nothing.

You have more of a drag race clutch, then a trail bike clutch in other words.
 
#9
Did you re-jet carb ?? If not , with the stage one kit your're allowing more air into engine and more air out (exhaust) , more air needs more fuel , closing the choke cuts down the air supply and allows it to run right .
 
#10
the kit is really the clutch,the clutch guard mounting hardware etc, i did not change anything on or in the engine, not even the air filter
 
#11
you only need the set screw if you dont put the bolt in the end of the crank. but id recommend using both if you can. it sounds like it got hot from just putt putting around but if thats how your going to drive it all the time than you should re gear it. id say drive it more and see what it does.
 
#13
no the filter and header is stage 2, but i set the choke full on according to the decal, so al lthe way towards the front of the bike, and it idles great and seams to have alot more power, so the label is wrong or my carb is messed? lol
 
#14
probably have some trash in a jet. if it wont run with choke off then its not getting enough fuel.

trade that 3100 stall clutch for a stock one and you should be alright
 
#18
no the filter and header is stage 2, but i set the choke full on according to the decal, so al lthe way towards the front of the bike, and it idles great and seams to have alot more power, so the label is wrong or my carb is messed? lol
yea your stickers backword
 
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