New Project

71dodge

71dodge

New Member
#21
#21
Ratbike said:
I use Easy Off oven cleaner to clean up all my frames, it costs about $4 a can but works unbelievably well!!Spray on ,wait 15 min. and power wash off. Takes it right down to the shiny metal,even where there is surface rust!!! Be Careful as it is nasty stuff!!:death:
Click to expand...
it really works? better or not better then aircraft remover?
 
turftech 1

turftech 1

Member
#24
#24
I finally got all the paint stripped off the frame... uggghhh. Definitely my least favorite part. Sanded it all down, taped it off, and it is ready for paint tomorrow. I can't wait. I'm going to go with the original bright red, but add some metallic blue accents. Basically the hubs, seat and motor will be blue.

I also got the vinyl for the seat today, the cushion springs were rusty to the hilt, so they are now soaking in the vinegar bucket with the chains.
 
turftech 1

turftech 1

Member
#25
#25
More pics:
Disassembled
View attachment 14155

View attachment 14156

The vinegar bucket- Thanks for the tip. I haven't pulled the chains out yet, but after just 2 days in the vinegar, the gas tank straps were 90% better. The thick scale of rust just came off with a paper towel!
View attachment 14157

After 2 days of sanding, scraping, brushing, one application of stripper, and one of naval jelly, and a thorough pressure washing in the snow, it's primer time! For the frame at least.
View attachment 14158
 
Richard Trotter

Richard Trotter

#26
#26
When you put the bed together, leave the plywood bed-bottom so it is easily removed. This makes it much easier to work on the brakes and chains. I found this out after welding a steel bottom in the bed. I now have to lay on my back to work on the undercarriage.
 
turftech 1

turftech 1

Member
#27
#27
Richard Trotter said:
When you put the bed together, leave the plywood bed-bottom so it is easily removed. This makes it much easier to work on the brakes and chains. I found this out after welding a steel bottom in the bed. I now have to lay on my back to work on the undercarriage.
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Curses!!!! I welded a new steel bed in the day before you posted this. I never even thought of plywood, that would have been good, and easy. It had a steel bed bottom when I got it, but it was rusted through, so I just cut it off.

I'll have to post pics, paint is done, and I am ready to apply the spray in bedliner. Then, Monday I should be ready for final assembly! I checked on the chains soaking in the vinegar bucket, and I think I'll let them go through the weekend. They are tons better. There is so much rust coming off now, the bucket appears to be on a slow boil as air bubbles keep popping up!
 
Richard Trotter

Richard Trotter

#32
#32
new chains aren't hard to find. Most farm or tractor shops sell them. The rear chain is a # 50. The double #35 is a little harder to find. Snowmobile shops have these chains and links.
 
Richard Trotter

Richard Trotter

#33
#33
My nephew has two of these 3 wheelers that we haven't started restoring yet. They came with or without a bed. The very early models didn't have springs in the front forks. The 3hp model was called the 'toter' and the 6hp was called the hustler.
 
steven Durham

steven Durham

#38
#38
Non Stock Drive system

Richard Trotter said:
Have you found anything to use for a motor and clutch yet?
Click to expand...
With the main part missing being the drive system if you don't use the stock Climb-a-Way system then who else made a speed sensitive drive system ?
All the Comet systems are Torque Sensitive and will not give you the braking effect that a Tote Gote used to aid their breaking when off throttle. For this reason a Tote Gote with a big engine is not a good pit machine.
I made that mistake when I put a 8 HP Briggs in my Tote Gote it was just on or off no putt, putt around campgrounds. And no freewheeling like a Torque Sensitive drive system gives. also the heavier weight if the Charger will need better braking if the speed also increases. The simple v-belt on the jack shaft may not be enough going down hill with any load aboard.
Again just my opinion and knowledge of the two drive systems.
Steve
 
turftech 1

turftech 1

Member
#39
#39
Richard Trotter said:
Have you found anything to use for a motor and clutch yet?
Click to expand...
I'm going to try to use the clutch it came with. I bought a HF 6.5 clone for a motor. Just couldn't pass up a brand new motor w/ an instant exchange warranty for $100. If something better comes along, I will probably snatch it up. The output shaft on the motor is 3/4", and the ID on the clutch is 1". I bought an adapter, that is keyed and goes from 3/4 to 1". My only concern is that the output shaft is not as long as the old one, so it the clutch sticks out about 1/2-3/4" past the end. I plan on using a longer bolt and trying to find a bushing to fill the space. I am hoping it should be OK. Assuming the clutch is still good. It was a bit rusted, not too horrible. I soaked it in vinegar for a week, brushed it, sanded the belt surfaces smooth and sprayed Fluid Film (like WD40 on steroids) into the springs and steel ball weights.
 
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