Nitrous Oxide Help

[Jay Wrix]

Hey all,

I need some help, and I know someone out there can help, Ive already got the physics and the fogger figured out, but can someone find me a kit or something for a briggs flathead?

This thing should be a real monster when I am done,

I know I need solenoids, a bottle and various pipes/ braided line, but what else do I need to know? build it myself or buy a kit? if a kit where and what?

I know NOS brand is popular, what else is there, and Can I use a 12 Battery and switch (im assuming the solenoids are electric)

If anyone can help me thanks!

 

[845mx5]

If you dont know ALL about nitrous, i would suggest not doing it yourself the first time. In a car if you bring the throttle to WOT you can get to much nitrous in the cylindar causeing an explosion. Doing that with the engine between your legs is a death wish. I would say if you really want to do this, do a bit of research first. Dont just ask someone to find a kit for you and think it will bolt on. You will need to reinforce parts of your engine first. Rod, maybe crank, valves tappets pushrods, all that. When i wanted to turbo myown car, i bought books on turbos. Basics, history, setup and tuning. Educate yourself

 

[Jay Wrix]

I understand about running grenades between my legs, and my motors far from stock, I dont think ill leave anything OEM

I understand the physics, the processes, the limitations, the dangers, and the fact that my motor will likely be completely destroyed, I also have a huge mechanized backgrounds, from .62 cubic inches on my R/C plane all the way up to a 350 C/I SB Chevy

But in other words, I just need the parts now, its not just some silly fantasy ( well money would be good too, heh)
If anyone can help me find something for a decent price I can do it,


I should also have a working supercharger for something this summer,=) for my first nitrous motor, Ya, It will be, but starting somewheres good
especially when its a good ole Briggs,

 

[65ShelbyClone]

I understand the physics, the processes, the limitations, the dangers, and the fact that my motor will likely be completely destroyed, I also have a huge mechanized backgrounds, from .62 cubic inches on my R/C plane all the way up to a 350 C/I SB Chevy

But in other words, I just need the parts now, its not just some silly fantasy

Ive already got the physics and the fogger figured out, but can someone find me a kit or something for a briggs flathead?

I know I need solenoids, a bottle and various pipes/ braided line, but what else do I need to know? build it myself or buy a kit? if a kit where and what?

I know NOS brand is popular, what else is there, and Can I use a 12 Battery and switch (im assuming the solenoids are electric)

I know you don't want to hear this, but your questions and comments show that you do not know enough about the physics, processes, chemistry, nor dangers of nitrous oxide systems to effectively implement one. All it would be is a disappointing and dangerous waste of money and time.

 

[1stlegendtx]

This looks safe.:doah:NOS Sneaky Pete bottle on the wheelie bar.

 

[Oldsalt]

Seems to me that the smaller the engine, the less there is to gain balanced by the cost/hassle factor. Certinally a large engine will have somewhat more complication to get a good system working but a tiny engine, like a Briggs 5 HP, is still going to be a lot of trouble and expense. The garbage bolted one will weigh almost as much as the engine. Plus nitrous on anything but a drag car, or other specialzed condition, seems to be second best in comparison to more cubic inches. Cubic inches work all the time not just when the bottle has the proper pressure, the rpm is not too high or too low, and a lot of other problems. If a guy's girl friend operated like nitrous [once in a while and unpredictably] there would be no married men.

 

[Jay Wrix]

Oldsalt, Thank you very much for your imput, Im looking for more input like this, I have never ran or built a nitrous motor, and i was looking for a newer, go fast motor that I could push to the EXTREME, I wanted to do a supercharger, but I have ran into multiple issues with the design, and getting the fuel delivery WITHOUT fuel injection.

as for my Knowledge of chemistry and physics, I started off as an Engineering Student at Michigan Technological University, and then ended up moving to pre- proffesional Bio-Chemistry focusing on physcholgy in attempts to one day achieve a doctorate in Psychiatry

Im rather use to chemistry, physics, and what not, I also understand common gas laws, and how the bottle pressure will be affected, and how touchy gasses really are, meaning that when regulators are optimum, life works happy

I also understand the danger factor, as im far exceeding the original limits that Briggs and Stratton designed and perfected the motor for, and that you dont need
massive amounts of horsepower

I figured it would give me a new challenge, and a great summer project for when life starts moving again, and tinkering along with keeping it a naturally aspirated motor,

I really dont feel like making another powerhouse, and I wanna do fresh things, and have fun with it, this is not my first project of large nature either,

but everyone thank you for your input:smile:

 

[minibikin']

First, I would never spray a cool bore motor. Just my 2 cents.

Second, Nitrous Express makes a nice kit, but you can build one much cheaper.

Third, you can use a battery for arming/operation.

Oldsalt. For the first time, I'm in disagreement. Cubic inches and more of them are nice. However, I do like the ability of being able to progressively control the hit on my car and tune it accordingly. Obviously I'm only thinking of drag racing.:smile: I'n general, bigger is usually better.

 

[Jay Wrix]

why not spray a cool bore, to extend the life,

and where can I find the parts to make a kit

 

[kbs8ball]

woohoo nitrous....OOOOO that kind of nitrous....nevermind.

 

[Oldsalt]

First, I would never spray a cool bore motor. Just my 2 cents.

Second, Nitrous Express makes a nice kit, but you can build one much cheaper.

Third, you can use a battery for arming/operation.

Oldsalt. For the first time, I'm in disagreement. Cubic inches and more of them are nice. However, I do like the ability of being able to progressively control the hit on my car and tune it accordingly. Obviously I'm only thinking of drag racing.:smile: I'n general, bigger is usually better.

You're right. Nitrous has some specific advantages in a number of situations. And it looks like fun. Here is what I see in the street car world: On what kind of cars do you see the high percentage of NOS installations? What I see is a whole lot of four banger rice grinders getting bottle fed. I had to ask myself why? The answer I got was these folks can't [sustanually] increase the cubic inches by bore/stroke or putting in a bigger engine. It's done of course but the dollars per cubic inch gain is rather dismal. Folks with a low buck SBC can very easily get, on the cheap, 383 inches or a lot more if further bucks are put down. Heck a guy with a small block Ford/Chevy/Mopar can switch to a big block without getting a second morgage on the house. Seems to me that folks with them brands simply go for cubic inches. The guys with more loot tend to put on a belt driven intake.

 

[MaxSpeed]

I have a little experience with nitrous. I have had it on two cars and on my current motorcycle. If you were going to run nitrous on a mini bike. I would recommend using a wet kit instead of a dry kit. In case you don't know the difference, a wet kit has both a nitrous and fuel solenoid. The nitrous and fuel enter a Y style fitting, mix, and inject into the intake tract (the flow can be controlled by nitrous and fuel jets in the Y fitting). You would also have to drill and tap into the fuel tank to supply fuel to the fuel solenoid. The dry kit only injects nitrous into the intake tract, therefore you will still need to have a way to add additional fuel when spraying nitrous. On my motorcycle I use a PowerCommander to add fuel via the injectors. If you decided to go with a dry kit, you would need to fabricate a system that sprays a fuel mist into the intake tract to mix with the nitrous. Either way, you will have to mount a strong battery on your mini bike to supply power to the solenoids. There are a few ways to activate the system. Some use a simple push button (mounted on the handlebar and pressed with the thumb) to activate nitrous when desired. Others use a mechanical WOT switch, which is connected to the throttle linkage, so it closes the contacts on the switch at WOT and activates the nitrous. Others use electronics to activate their nitrous system. I opted to use electronics to activate my nitrous. When my engine reaches a preset RPM and WOT the nitrous automatically starts spraying. I am also able to tell my system when to stop spraying nitrous. I recommend installing a one range colder spark plug too as a safety margin, with a tighter gap to avoid blowing out the spark. Both nitrous systems have their pros and cons, but if you want a relatively inexpensive kit, you might want to look at a Sneaky Pete NOS system, or a Dynotune nitrous system. I have the latter on my bike, and an NOS kit on my son's 04 Mach1 Mustang. Here are a couple of pics so that you can see how some of the components are mounted on my bike. You can use them for ideas on your install. Good luck and hold on tight.

 

[MaxSpeed]

Pics of the bottle and pressure gauge mounted on the bike.

 

[minibikin']

You're right. Nitrous has some specific advantages in a number of situations. And it looks like fun. Here is what I see in the street car world: On what kind of cars do you see the high percentage of NOS installations? What I see is a whole lot of four banger rice grinders getting bottle fed. I had to ask myself why? The answer I got was these folks can't [sustanually] increase the cubic inches by bore/stroke or putting in a bigger engine. It's done of course but the dollars per cubic inch gain is rather dismal. Folks with a low buck SBC can very easily get, on the cheap, 383 inches or a lot more if further bucks are put down. Heck a guy with a small block Ford/Chevy/Mopar can switch to a big block without getting a second morgage on the house. Seems to me that folks with them brands simply go for cubic inches. The guys with more loot tend to put on a belt driven intake.

Touche'. We used to do alot of street racing in Philly when I was younger. Now I'm older (not grown up) with wife, kids, and a business. Too much to lose. In the type of drag racing I'm involved in, the power adder is king. The weight breaks are susbstantial to run a small block with 1 power adder. It also gives you something against a BB car on the street. Of course it is awesome to see guys like Mike Hill that run the 800 cid mountain motors too.
JayWrix, If you do a search for nitrous supply parts, you can buy any small industial soleniods from a dealer, a fogger fitting, and jets and you're on your way. I'd run a wet kit also. Put a "T" from your fuel pump and supply the fuel solenoid.

 

[65ShelbyClone]

I would recommend using a wet kit instead of a dry kit. In case you don't know the difference, a wet kit has both a nitrous and fuel solenoid. The nitrous and fuel enter a Y style fitting, mix, and inject into the intake tract (the flow can be controlled by nitrous and fuel jets in the Y fitting). You would also have to drill and tap into the fuel tank to supply fuel to the fuel solenoid.

Don't forget a high pressure fuel pump. I don't think gravity is going to cut it.

 

[MaxSpeed]

Don't forget a high pressure fuel pump. I don't think gravity is going to cut it.

No, gravity definitely won't cut it. He would need to install a high pressure fuel pump.

 

[845mx5]

Why not just buy a larger engine for the same price as a NOS kit? Dont forget that with NOS you have to refill the bottles. Thats not cheap, and may not be easy if there isnt a supplyer around you.

 

[minibikin']

Nitrous refills = $4.50 lb. in my area. Bike bottles are usually 2lbs.

 

[Jay Wrix]

Hey all, thanks for the feedback,

Oldsalt, thanks again, I would do a bigger motor, but Im stuck with a few smaller cubic inch motors, and I like the term 'belt driven intake"

Max speed, thanks for the pictures, it helps a bit, and im starting to figure out the setup, and thats one sharp bike

minibikin, I never realized a fill was that cheap!


845MX5, I dont have the money for a bigger motor, nor Do I really wanna add a bigger motor to my frame ( well I do, but....) and I wouldnt mind making a a flathead scream on nitrous, why? because I can, and its a fun, new project

65Shelbyclone, how high of fuel pressure are we talking? like electronic fuel pump and regulator? or just a high flowing mikuni pump? and Did you ever get your EFI system going?

Thanks again!

 

[65ShelbyClone]

65Shelbyclone, how high of fuel pressure are we talking? like electronic fuel pump and regulator? or just a high flowing mikuni pump? and Did you ever get your EFI system going?

I would expect EFI-level pressure, so ~40-60psi from an electric pump.

Yeah, I got the EFI working, but that was a long time ago. The engine broke an oil ring and being a CoolBore Briggs, wrecked the cylinder too. That's when I shelved the project and started looking more at motorcycle engines.