Old H30 needs some help

cyclopsmoore

cyclopsmoore

Member
#23
#23
Dr. Shop Teacher said:
ebay: [h=3] Model H30-35348P Engine Crankshaft Part #34730 26.50[/h]
[h=3]TECUMSEH H30 H35 air cooled horizontal engine standard crankshaft FREE SHIPPING 60.00[/h]
the second one looks much cleaner
Click to expand...
thanx Shop Teacher, the first one is from an H35 and the part number is different from the one in my H30. May work but I am skeptical, the second one is part number 32555B, mine is a 32555A, i think the only diffeerence is mine is drillled and tapped , the one for sale is not? It should work. you got any insite on differences other than drill and tapped output end?
 
bikebudy

bikebudy

Banned - Must pay $500
#24
#24
I'm not positive but, I see no reason why that crank would not work.

I would say its correct, other than its not drilled and tapped.
 
Dr. Shop Teacher

Dr. Shop Teacher

#25
#25
cyclopsmoore said:
thanx Shop Teacher, the first one is from an H35 and the part number is different from the one in my H30. May work but I am skeptical, the second one is part number 32555B, mine is a 32555A, i think the only diffeerence is mine is drillled and tapped , the one for sale is not? It should work. you got any insite on differences other than drill and tapped output end?
Click to expand...
Near as I can tell both cranks are interchangeable. The rod lengths are slightly different. OldMiniBikes sells a kit to accurately drill the center for the PTO (thanks, CarPlay). I'd go with the second one, as Bikebudy observed because it's really clean. Spend the money for a really good drill bit. As always, buyer beware on e-Bay and although the first crank doesn't look real bad and may clean up fine--but it could have burrs and nicks on the unseen bearing surfaces.
 
H

Havasu Dave

Moderator
#26
#26
The H25 through H35 cranks are the same, as long as they're all 1982 or prior. The later H35 has a larger magneto side bearing surface.

(Even though I am not a "real" small engine shop.) LOL.

Since the OP is probably going to ignore this post too, if anyone else needs one, I have one, scuffed up, 5/8 PTO, not drilled, but with puller pilot which works great to direct the drill bit for drilling and tapping. The metal is extremely soft, and you don't need a guide to drill it. Or at least I didn't. Journal is out of spec, but so is every other old ass Tec crank shaft.

Flywheel taper is a bit ugly, but that would be taken care of when the flywheel is lapped on during assembly. Or I could clean it up apparently and rip someone off on ebay for $60 by using bore hatch marks to describe a crankshaft, without providing any specifications to it.

I hear you can time these things by simply comparing the last guy's bolt indentations as well. (wink)
 
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