Hey yall, been a while since i posted. Looking fir help with carb for a pred 301cc, looked thru forum didnt see anything right off, soooo im looking for some carb info, from what im seeing is a 28mm flat slide will work......but that $ is meh for now, will any 28mm carb work? I have a 28mm nibbi carb not in use at the moment, will thst work? Or any links to carb?
Predator 301 help with carb
- Thread starter SmokinAJ
- Start date
I would imagine most any 28 mm. will work. What all modifications have you done to your engine? I have a 301 hemi on one of my karts. Milled and ported head, 50lb. valve springs, twister 250 cam, governor removed, header pipe and free flowing air filter. I use the stock carburetor with a .040 or .041 jet and the pilot jet drilled to .021". Very happy with the performance. If your engine hasn't been modified a bit, I think a 28 will be too much for it.
Stock carbs are great. They are already sized and fitted to the engine.
I don't understand the reasoning behind putting a motorcycle carb on a lawnmower engine.
I guess I'm just getting old and cheap. I like my engines to start, run reliably and require zero tuning.
Now, I will tweak some governed engines.
I don't understand the reasoning behind putting a motorcycle carb on a lawnmower engine.
I guess I'm just getting old and cheap. I like my engines to start, run reliably and require zero tuning.
Now, I will tweak some governed engines.
Right now it is a brand new engine, totally unmodified, will be adding a header pipe, and the carb, removing governor..only because i need to get rid of the bulkyness of the stock exhaust and air filter housing to fit properly on bike, i would like to keep the stock carb as ive got an adapter for the stock carb to use a cone filter, just not sure of jetting at this time, thats the easy part, my issue lies on how to hook throttle linkage after removing governor, as i usually just go with the aftermarket carb like on my 224, maybe should just zip tie for time being?
Did you figure out what kind of RPM you will be running? A big block should have a lot of torque so you shouldn't need to run high RPM.
What bike is this going on? Tire size and gearing?
I would run the slide carb first without governor removal. Then I could go back to the stock carb and run with a tweaked governor if the slide carb doesn't work well. The how much RPM question needs to be known prior to running this way.
What bike is this going on? Tire size and gearing?
I would run the slide carb first without governor removal. Then I could go back to the stock carb and run with a tweaked governor if the slide carb doesn't work well. The how much RPM question needs to be known prior to running this way.
If all you do is put on a header and a free flowing air filter, I would try a # 39 main jet and .020 for the pilot jet. After building mine, but with the stock size pilot jet, it was hard to start. Like 12 to 15 pulls. Eric Adams of the Grey Goat Garage suggested drilling the pilot out to .020". Bought a set of micro drill bits from Amazon, drilled it to .021". Starts 1st or 2nd pull every time. Night and day difference. Also in post #2 where I listed engine modifications I forgot to mention ARC billet rod and flywheel. Kinda pricey, especially for the big block,
but I won't remove the governor without replacing those two parts.
but I won't remove the governor without replacing those two parts.
Sry guys, been busy with work, i got it mounted, decided to stick with the stock carb, and just go with a filter adapter, and exhaust, havent changed anything else......finally got my clutch and tried it out today, it has nothing on the low end, but then noticed my brand new clutch with 0 hours was smoking like crazy on accel, i had to pretty much push start......this is a cheap amazon clutch to note, ordered a hillard hd clutch tonight, other then that when you get going its there for the most part, but i will be getting some jets, idles great so thats where it needs to be just gota mess around with jetting, which i expected, as for governor im not removing as of yet but how do you at least zip tie bypass it, i will be installing a tach this wk, i do on all my bikes as to not overrev
Are you using a 14t 1” clutch that cost $22 on a bike with 14t-60t gearing and the motovox style tall rear tire??
I ran 14t-60t on 5“ rims and it had zero off the line torque and the clutch would throw massive sparks. Once it locked you could go really really fast.
They make 1” 10t clutches but they are step-down clutches so 1” half way through stepped down to 3/4 and I doubt that clutch Is usable in your application. You might need a smaller rear tire or torque converter.
I ran 14t-60t on 5“ rims and it had zero off the line torque and the clutch would throw massive sparks. Once it locked you could go really really fast.
They make 1” 10t clutches but they are step-down clutches so 1” half way through stepped down to 3/4 and I doubt that clutch Is usable in your application. You might need a smaller rear tire or torque converter.
Ill have to try the sprocket first, as theres not really room fir a TC at this time, no way i can bring the engine up 1" fir fitment, just kinda weird that my 224 had no issue on this bike, i figured the 301 would have 0 issue also, i did mention i was using a cheap amazon one in the comment above and that ive ordered a hd clutch
Ok, so that 7 1/4 inch sprocket is close to half the diameter of your 15 inch tire, and it was geared way too low, numerically, for any low speed work. Your ratio was 4.28 ;1 with a roughly 15 inch tire. @SmokinAJ has a 3.57:1 ratio with what looks like a 19 inch tire.
That is a huge difference. I can see why his poor clutch is smoking.
That is a huge difference. I can see why his poor clutch is smoking.